<ol>
<li>Replace engine oil and filter</li>
<li>Measure brake rotor runout</li>
<li>Measure the thickness of brake pads and rotors</li>
<li>Replace air conditioner filter</li>
<li>Replace the brake fluid</li>
<li>Replace engine air filter</li>
<li>Replace spark plugs</li>
<li>Re-torque drive shaft bolts</li>
<li>Rotate tires</li>
<li>Road-test vehicle</li>
<li>Inspect the following:
Ball joints and dust covers
Body
Brake lines and hoses
Drive belt
Drive shaft boots
Engine valve clearance
Exhaust pipes and mountings
Front differential oil
Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses
Fuel tank cap gasket
Rack and pinion assembly
Rear differential oil
Steering linkage and boots
Variable gear ratio steering assembly</li>
</ol>
<p>mehappy - The online 120K Service list is slightly different … more “replace” and less “inspect.” As has been mentioned above, timing belt replacement is a significant cost service. Everything else on the list could be described as “routine.” Find a competent independent mechanic.</p>
<p>Agree with newhope that “inspect” is just a routine look-over. The list in post #21 is an oil and filter change, with replacement of fluids, some other filters, sparkplugs and checking teh brakes. Oh and "torqueing (tightening) the bolts.</p>
<p>mehappy, that should cost much less then what they quoted you. I would just find a local mechanic recommended by someone that you know and have them do the maintenance if you don’t know how to.</p>
<p>I just did my 120k maintenance on my car myself. All of the spark plugs, wires, filters, oil, etc came to less then $100. Replaced a few belts for about $50. (took a bit of time to get them tensioned correctly…) Rotated my tires as well. I would bet that the biggest part of the dealers bill is labor as it took some time to do all of those items. Didn’t do the timing belt yet and probably wont. Will more then likely be getting a new car sometime in the next year.</p>
<p>If you have a “zero clearance” engine a broken timing belt can definitely ruin your engine. 60K miles is a vary common interval for a new belt, the manual should say when. If this service includes a needed timing belt I would not consider it overly expensive.</p>
<p>That list should cost nowhere near $1,500. Maybe a few hundred at the most. Every item on there are things I do myself (i.e. with me as the mechanic) on my cars and they’re all simple routine things.</p>
<p>Re:$1000 Hyundai service. I just reviewed the receipt, I had 26404 miles on 2007 Veracruz on which I took delivery 6/07. Service date 3/09
replaced rear brakes 269.95 oil change,in cabin air filter 59.95, cleaned fuel injector 199, oil $16. 30,000 parts costs $142 (wipers, replace rear bulb, fuse for cig lighter,transmission fluid, fuel & oil additive, antifreeze ect). Total Labor $677, Parts $306 and of course plus tax $86. Can you say sucker? lol</p>
<p>A Veracruz is pretty big and heavy, but I’m shocked that it would need rear brakes at 26K miles. Front brakes, maybe, but even that wouldn’t please me.</p>
<p>And, yeah, they charged a lot of money for a lot of stuff you shouldn’t have needed.</p>
<p>Car dealers have high overhead and they must sell service, whether you needed or not to survive. The $1000 Hyundai and the $1500 Lexus bills show just that.</p>
<p>Twice I was lured to the Lexus dealer with FREE oil change coupon for my mom’s Lexus. (My other Lexus was bought on ebay and shipping over from East Coast so they don’t know about it.) Each time I was offered over $600 repair “advise”. Their advises are very convincing:
Each time I declined the services by saying "Maybe the next time."But to the less strong willed person, tehy will fall for that as “Dealer knows the best”/////</p>
<p>god! coskat, you were taken to the cleaners!</p>
<p>This is hilarious! If the bolts are loose, you will have a problem to drive the car already. The 120K checkup list is nothing more than a hook for you to go to the dealer, hand him the car and say,
</p>
<p>Since if you look, there are TONS of things can be “serviced” after you drive it for 120k miles and the check list did nothing about them.</p>
<p>(wipers $16 at costco for three(buy 2 get 1 free)
, replace rear bulb $2 to $4 on ebay(for 2) free shipping
, fuse for cig lighter (whole bunch for $5 at Big lot, they only changed one.)
,transmission fluid $1 at dollar tree
, fuel & oil additive $1 each at dollar store
, antifreeze $8/gallon, I don’t think you will need the whole gallen unless they flush it</p>
<p>In addition to the dealer screwing you for a routine service one must also be aware that when you go to a dealer to check on a problem your car will more than likely not be tended to by the “A” mechanic the first or probably second time around. You should get the best the first time around as you will be paying for it.</p>
<p>We have a lot of car dealers here in the Northeast. Some are good … some not so much. Inside each dealer there are some good service persons … and some, um, not so much. The thing is, unless you have some knowledge and/or experience it’s difficult to determine how well you’re being taken care of. One time I was advised to get a $2,600 “brake service” at 32,000 miles. Pure malarkey … I drove that car another 40,000 miles before replacing just the brake pads. Another time it was $700 for a Mass Air Flow Sensor on a 11-year-old car I was getting ready to trade in. Ridiculous. (I replaced the bad MAF in three minutes with a $80 junkyard part and phillips-head screwdriver.)</p>
<p>As several others have pointed out, dealerships have high overhead … and there’s a tendency to “find” work that “needs” to be done. That doesn’t always happen … but it happens often enough that it’s worthwhile finding a good independent mechanic who can provide a second opinion. It’s bad enough paying $122/hour for service … it’s galling to pay that rate for work that perhaps doesn’t need to be done.</p>
<p>Yeah live & learn, I’ll never get ripped off by going to dealer for service again. I was there earlier this month as my airbag light was on just past the 60,000 mi pt and it wasn’t covered quoted 600. I took it back to husband’s mechanic who ordered the part from the same dealer and did job for 440. Now I find out this week Hyundai just issued recall on airbags. Now I have to try and get them to pay me for the repair, I won’t hold my breath. I’m seriously thinking of trading in and getting better quality as I have no confidence in how this car will hold up for the next 20000. PS the dealer told me I need rear brakes again when they dx the airbag and my mechanic says I need new tires even though they only have 25,000 on them. Yikes it never ends.</p>
<p>^^ It should be very easy for the mechanic to show you why the new tires are needed. Depending on the tires you have, it’s possible to have to replace at around 25K but that’s usually for performance tires which you don’t likely have on your Hyundai SUV. Also, to maximize tire life, make sure you rotate the tires per spec either yourself or have a mechanic do it.</p>
<p>Ditto with the brakes - at a minimum ask the dealer (or look at the inspection sheet they should have given you) to see exactly how much material is left on the brake pads. If you’re there when they’re inspecting it ask to be shown the pads (i.e. walk back and see what they look like while they’re still on your car) so you can see for yourself how much material is left. Almost any car should get considerably more miles out of rear pads and almost always the front pads wear faster than the rears. If nothing else have your mechanic check the rear brakes to see if you get the same story as the dealer. It takes only a few minutes and no parts to check the brakes.</p>