<p>Hi everyone! Great job of sticking to exercise/healthy lifestyles despite the weather. Congrats to MOfWC on reaching that goal. Wow. And kudos to BC.</p>
<p>Im finally going back to the mainland and already miss the almost magical experience of the hike. </p>
<p>First of all, many thanks to idad for supplying the YouTube links etc. This information was invaluable for me to get myself mentally ready for the challenge, especially when I saw the video of the cliff walk and decided that if that was the worst part, the hike would not be so tough after all. Turns out, I was right about that!</p>
<p>We really lucked out with the weather. Since I made the reservations and got the camping/hiking permit a couple of months in advance, I was pretty nervous that the unpredictable December weather might spoil our adventure. I even paid for two camping nights instead of one just to bump our chance of encountering better weather a bit. It surely rains a lot in Kauai, especially in December, but by some miracle (or pure luck!) our planned hike dates fell on the two driest days of the entire week! Of course, since it poured buckets the day before, the trail was very muddy and treacherous in some areas (more about that later), but otherwise it was very manageable, even the infamous cliff walk, which dries out very quickly.</p>
<p>On the day of the hike we got up early, drove to Hanalei and stopped by Kayak Kauai to get some fuel for our Pocket Rocket camp stove and to park our car there and get a shuttle ride to the trail head. Turns out, they discontinued the shuttle for the winter, and instead gave us a business card of a local lady who operated a taxi business Sues Taxi. Of course, there was an option of leaving the car in the parking lot by the trail head, a magnet for car thievs and vandals, so for our peace of mind we decided to park by Kayak Kauai and to call Sue. Just as I was about to dial the number, another couple stopped by to get some supplies and kindly offered us a ride to a parking spot approximately a mile from the trailhead, from where we hiked to the end of the road and entered the trail. The first couple of hundreds of yards of the trail was, as Mr B called it, a chicken filter: if you were too chicken to climb up this very steep hill covered in muddy stones, you had no business of hiking to Kalalau. Since the hill did not scare us a bit, we carried on towards the coveted goal. In approximately 2 miles we reached a stream which we crossed by taking our hiking shoes off and wading knee deep into the water. IMO, this was the most unpleasant part of the hike taking muddy shoes and socks off and then trying to put them onto the wet feet while balancing on slippery rocks. We had a water break on the other side of the stream by the beach and watched how the resident feral cats were harassing hikers and begging for food. Unlike most feral cats, these felines werent very afraid of humans and even allowed to touch them. The next couple of miles of the hike would not have been too pleasant if it werent for the gorgeous scenery. The trail was still muddy in spots from several days of heavy rainfall, and we really appreciated our hiking poles and Merrell boots that I picked up at REI prior to the hike. I strongly recommend anyone attempting the hike to get a sturdy pole it converts a two-legged human into a much sturdier tripod and comes very handy in muddy places. We carried on and oohed and aahhed at the gorgeous scenery while trying to look carefully ahead for the safest spot to land our feet. There are numbers engraved into rocks serving as trail markers, but we did not notice any since we were too busy with scenery and safety, so we relied on time and the description of the trails landmarks to determine our position (I really wished I had brought my Garmin, but I forgot it on the kitchen table).</p>
<p>Speaking of caloric burn, Im pretty sure I burned much more than my typical 1100 calories/11 miles while walking the trail. First, I was lugging a backpack that weighed 20 or more pounds (despite packing very light, we decided to take as much water as possible instead of iodine-treating stream water en route, although we did bring the pills just in case). Halfway through the hike I was ready to curse the load on my back, but then it dawned on me that only a couple of years ago I was lugging this kind of weight on me 24/7! I quickly shut up. Second, the trail is not flat. And I mean NOT FLAT. As you navigate around the cliffs (pali in Hawaiian), you climb up and down some pretty steep hills. Here is the elevation profile that I found on the web (it looks about right to me).
<a href=“http://great-hikes.com/blog/images/KalalauTrailProfile_lg.gif[/url]”>http://great-hikes.com/blog/images/KalalauTrailProfile_lg.gif</a> Third, the trail is not very consistent: you get to walk on bare rock, thick mud, nice dirt paths, cross streams, etc.</p>
<p>I remembered that the cliffy part was supposed to be somewhere around 7.2-7.4 miles into the hike, so when we reached that point, the fear of heights in my soul got infused with happiness of being 2/3 closer to our goal. The worst part about the cliff was the wind, which howled like a stray dog at night and tried to yank my hat out of my hand. I forgot to tie my hair into a ponytail, so it was blown into every possible direction, obscuring my view of the trail (I was much smarter on the way back!). The scary part was pretty short, and soon we were on the familiar mix of mud, rock and dirt. After an hour or so, we reached a point from where we could see the coveted Kalalau beach! The last mile was the easiest ever as we sprinted down a dusty slope towards the paradise! Here comes a big brag: we passed quite a few much younger folks, so I was very proud of Mr B who was afraid that we werent prepared for such a strenuous walk. In fact, I think we were the oldest people on the trail everyone else looked like they were under 35. So yeah, not too bad for a couple of geezers!</p>
<p>We reached the beach about an hour before the sunset, quickly pitched our REI tent, spread out the supplies strategically so they could be easier located in the dark, and ran to play on the wet sand. Swimming at Kalalau is not recommended due to strong currents and high surf, so we splashed our feet a bit and took pictures of the sunset. I forgot to mention that it could take up to 10 hours to walk the trail (we did it in 8 with plenty of rest stops and picture taking), so anyone attempting the hike should plan accordingly. It gets dark really quickly when the sun disappears into the sea, and walking the trail in the dark even with the brightest flashlight is a suicide, IMO.</p>
<p>I really wished we had spent two nights at Kalalau, but due to our prior obligations we had to head back the next morning. The Kalalau valley is really gorgeous, and the best part is that it is pure wilderness without any services (except a couple of composting pit toilets) and phone reception! In short, if we could do the hike, anyone in decent walking shape can, with the right planning and equipment. I will post more about the equipment that we found necessary etc.</p>