<p>ArtLoversPlus:
Be aware that mixing baking soda with hydrogen peroxide will foam and release oxygen (which is why deodorizes), so be careful when you use it; I’d test it in a small area first.</p>
<p>Do not mix bleach and vinegar, as you will release chlorine gas. Ditto for bleach and ammonia.</p>
<p>Thanks dmd for your tips on not mixing vinegar with others.
I think i have removed odors for now. But i heard they will come back once there is moisture Wondering if it is true or not.</p>
<p>Great! Wow, one of the least toxic cleaning materials or are you think each thing you tried removed some of the odor? Probably the latter. Can you post to let us know if the odor returns and what you do next? We’re curious, in case we buy a “smelly” property.</p>
<p>ArtLoversPlus: we had (as I mentioned) the cat poop in the basement smell problem when we bought this house. Yes, it can come back if there’s moisture. Chemical dehumidifiers (those packets of blue/pink crystals, usually called something like “closet dehumidifier” at Home Depot) are not terribly expensive and most of them also absorb odors. They can be recharged by baking in an oven.</p>
<p>Here is some thing I learned from the “Odor Man”, he had special formula to remove odors, but he is asking $10 “donation” before he sends it. Has anyone tried his formula? Does it work?</p>
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<p>Personally I’d be very suspicious, especially for $10 donation. If you find out, we’d love to know the “secret.”</p>
<p>Did the Oxy-Klenza stuff help at all??</p>
<p>Don’t send the $10. Sounds like a scam.</p>
<p>VH, thanks, but we have not got to the oxy stuff yet, I am still waiting for the results from white vinegar to come out. Right now, the odor has been covered by the smell of vinegar, I need to wait a few more days to air out the vinegary(?) smell.</p>
<p>Thanks everyone, looks like the “odor man” maybe a scam, perhaps they will provide a published solution for the $10.</p>
<p>Wiki is tackling the salt issue. Can’t copy the.link but the trick is to treat with enzyme products and keep the area wet for several days. It breaks down the chemical bonding of the urea and other material. I’ve scoured the web, over time, since our dog got to an expensive rug. This is the first time I’ve gotten this sort of science-y answer. Bleach, vinegar, etc, will dissolve the crystals but not neutralize.</p>
<p>Here it is: [How</a> do you remove urine odor](<a href=“Answers - The Most Trusted Place for Answering Life's Questions”>How do you remove urine odor? - Answers)</p>
<p>Seems you may need to clean the area of any other residues, first.</p>
<p>Oh, brother, if this works, pass it along.</p>
<p>lookingforward</p>
<p>I called the guys at odorxit and they say what I did was wrong. I used bleach, pinesol, power wash and then white vinegar. They say all the above are wrong chemical products and the power wash actually drive the SALT down deeper, which is the worst to do. They told me I should use TSP and their product. I have to see what happens after I got the UV Light and the sample odorxit.</p>
<p>Of course they told you you should use their product. ;)</p>
<p>Our investor group is involved in buying and restoring foreclosure homes; most of the properties have been unoccupied for a year or more. Stale air, smoking and pet odors can get quite bad. Selling a house with odor problems takes longer and affects the resale value. Painting the interior does not remove all odors as the odors are embedded in the carpets, carpet pads and drapes. A painting contractor mentioned a product called, Air-ReNu a paint additive, turns any painted wall surface, into a permanent air, purification system no electricity or filters required. We now use, Air-ReNu on every interior paint job.</p>
<p>A trick we’ve used in cars is: soak a rag in vanilla extract, put it in a container in the car. It seems to absorb odor, not just cover it up. Might be worth a try as a last step.</p>
<p>We had a problem with a cat that was urinating and defacating in our garage, on the concrete. Since we were making that part of the garage into an in- law apartment type area, we hired a painter to treat the floor ( I don’t know what type of paint he used ) I think it was something similar to KILZ , but don’t quote me on that. The floor was treated , then sub floor and carpet was put in there . The end result was no odor …which of course was the goal . He told us that the concrete was porous and the more cleaning compounds were put on it, the more the concrete would break down.
It has been three years almost, and whatever he did worked.
Maybe call a painter ?</p>
<p>VH,</p>
<p>I understand the guy is trying to sell his products, but I thought I received professional help, the guy on the phone is knowledgeable and his advise informative. His suggestion the use of TSP first is not to his interest as it is not sold by him. I think I will give his $25 sale a try as I spent 20 minute to receive professional advises. It was not just “Oh, you buy this” kind of sales pitch.</p>
<p>OK. I am very distrustful generally, so perhaps you should go ahead. Good luck.</p>
<p>VH, </p>
<p>We make mistakes all the time, we do learn from our errors. This is a trial and error thing. Lots of good advises here and I will try them one at a time until problem resolved.</p>
<p>The urine in cement question was just asked in the Philadelphia inquirer.</p>
<p>The answer was hydrogen peroxide and to soak the concrete.</p>
<p>Just remember that hydrogen peroxide at various strengths can burn your skin right off.</p>
<p>I would research this a bit and figure out how to SAFELY use it.</p>