<p>If the dry-wall or green-wall behind your shower walls is that soaked with moisture then you need to rip it all out and replace. The dehumidifier suggestion is just plain silly. Once these materials get moisturized they deteriorate, and rapidly. </p>
<p>Re-do with cement board anywhere there is water contact with tile.</p>
<p>toblin, have you read my previous posts? I do not have the many thousands of dollars it would take to redo the whole shower. I can’t sue my builder successfully at this point under my state’s laws. There is no way to go into this wall from behind.</p>
<p>It is a 40 pint, so retail is under $200. I think I will go to Menards over the weekend and just buy a new one. I think I can get a smaller one for this job. I need to buy a new larger one for my basement, too. Buy stock in dehumidifier companies…</p>
Agreed. Better to gut the shower and let it sit that way until you have money to fix it. Leaving it damp (and really unable to dry out properly) is just asking for more MOLD problems. Tiles should never be laid on greenboard sheetrock, unless in a totally dry area - and even then, better to use hardiboard. I had a colleague whose shower COLLAPSED while she was showering, injuring her badly. Her condo had tile laid over greenboard. She was badly injured, and sued the builder, but due to poor legal representation, she did not receive a fair settlement. If it were my shower, I would hire some guys to come in and gut it…</p>
<p>OP stated in post #1 that he didn’t want this thread to turn into a redo the shower and mold thread. Good luck with the dehumidifier angle, intparent…seems like a long shot.</p>
<p>A dehumidifier is an inductive load so it’s not a surprise that when it starts up, the lights dim (since it would draw a huge current to “get going”) particularly if the wiring is poor (not copper, too small, bad junctions, etc)</p>
<p>the fact that it continues happening while it is on probably reflects some mechanical problem, that is causing it to stop/start.</p>
<p>On the GFI outlets (the kind that have the test/reset buttons) - the purpose of them is that the outlet measures the amount of current going through it, and if there is a “ground fault” (i.e., electricity leaking out somewhere) then it shuts off. </p>
<p>Yes, it is sensitive, but I’m sure if you ever accidentally zap yourself from that outlet you’ll be thankful it was designed to pump as few amps into you as possible And using those 2-prong-to-3-prong adapters almost defeats the purpose.</p>
<p>Also, you can find dehumidifiers on the internet for $200-300 US (prices at newegg.com) Considering how this problem has done thousands of dollars of damage to your home, and could do tens of thousands of dollars more damage, I would invest in a quality dehumidifier.</p>