<p>Well, another thing I learned by reading these posts is that there are regional paint companies. I was only familiar with the biggies - Sherwin Williams, Benjamin Moore, Behr and Glidden. OH and we have Wal-Mart here and so we have their paint available to us also, but I’ve never bought it. Just didn’t trust it although Consumer Reports sang its praises as one time.</p>
<p>I painted some shelves in my garage with paint from Walmart. Don’t remember the brand, but it took FOREVER to cure. It was still sticky six or more months later. I will not use it again, although the Walmart store is the most convenient location for me to buy paint.</p>
<p>I had that same experience with Behr paint that we used to paint a TV stand. It was semi gloss and just never seemed to set well. </p>
<p>I also have Behr paint in my kitchen (eggshell ) and it is not very scrubbable at all. What is the point of paint that you can’t clean, especially in the kitchen?!!</p>
<p>Musicmom and br,
Are you using an oil based paint? Perhaps you did not follow the following instructions. I am copying directly from the net and will not be responsible for its accuracy.</p>
<p>"painting with oil base can be a little tricky as you’ve already experienced…but thats not all your fault - oil base paints used to be a lot more “user friendly” than they are now, but due to recent changes in the v.o.c. regulations (volatile organic compounds) all manufacturers have had to cut back on the types and amounts of solvents used in the construction of oil products. someone mentioned thinning your product with mineral spirits to make it more workable - and that will help, but by doing so you’ll be adding back in the very solvents that the gov’t has ordered the manufacturers to take out to save the planet from environmental catastrophe…(um, if you couldn’t tell, that last statement was dripping with v.o.c. laden sarcasm)…</p>
<p>having said that, when i paint with oil base paints i also thin the product for better application results. instead of using mineral spirits (paint thinner), try using pure gum turpentine (available at paint and hardware stores)…you’ll get much better flow and a longer wet edge with turp than with paint thinner…and it smells better…still a v.o.c. no-no but it’ll make your product work a lot better. remember when thinning oil base paints with solvent, a little goes a long way - thin at a rate of 5 to 10 per cent…max… </p>
<p>something else you may want to consider is a product called “penetrol” made by the flood company (also available at paint and hardware stores)…penetrol is a proprietary blend of oils and solvents that allows oil base products to flow beautifully - this product will slightly slow the “dry to touch” time, but that’s necessary for better flow and leveling…read the label instructions as to the thinning ratio, but i think you’ll be best served by thinning at a rate of about 1 pint penetrol per gallon of paint.</p>
<p>while these additives and/or solvents will help, the tools you use are also important. buy the best brush you can afford - it’ll make an amazing difference in the appearance and the amount of time it takes you to apply product. when using oil base, always use a natural bristle brush for best results (keep in mind that when working with natural bristle, you will lose a few hairs during application - brush out several strokes on a scrap piece of cardboard to eliminate loose hairs before starting project)… personally, i wouldn’t use a foam brush - some people like 'em and have had ok success with them…when using a premium quality paint and tools, you can literally make an oil base finish look as though its been sprayed if you use the proper technique. </p>
<p>the proper technique will take a little bit of practice though…dip only about 1/3 of the bristle into the paint and allow several minutes for the paint to penetrate deeply into the bristle - as i mentioned earlier, brush out a couple of brushfuls on a scrap board to eliminate any loose hairs…once you’re ready to start your project, fill your brush again and tap off the excess (don’t wipe or scrape), apply your paint in long continual strokes - you’ll need to follow a “W” or “N” pattern to distribute the paint evenly, but once distributed, lay off the strokes in one long continuous stroke using just the tips of your brush…do not overbrush oil base paints…even by applying paint in this manner, you’ll see some brush marks - allow the paint to do its thing now - leave it alone and most of those brush marks will settle out on their own…refill your brush and continue on…always work into a wet edge of paint, but be careful not to brush back into paint that has started to set. </p>
<p>it’s always a good idea that even if one coat covers, put a second coat on and slightly sand in between coats. after the second coat has dried for a day or so, you might want to try buffing out the surface with pumice stone followed by rottenstone (again, both available at paint stores)…you’ll be amazed at the results (rubbing with these fine abrasives may not work as well with a polyurethane modified oil)…i hand rub all my oil based projects and the difference is very noticeable…</p>
<p>i hope this info is helpful to you…good luck on your projects and let us know how they turned out."</p>
<p>Dunn Edwards is a regional paint mfg. They have a large store 1 mile from me, their price is much higher than SW and other national brand, but they claim it is superior.</p>
<p>Nope, latex paint.</p>
<p>I have only used latex paint. I use Behr semi-gloss on my interior trim and have never had a problem with it. It dries to the touch fairly quickly and takes 2-3 weeks to fully cure, but never has taken 6 months. Maybe I just got a bad batch of the Walmart paint. The brand on the label says “Colorplace.”</p>
<p>Walmart paints have been made by a host of different manufacturers over the years. (At one point Sherwin-Williams, prior to 2007, I think.) Currently, I think Colorplace is made by Valspar.</p>
<p>I have used a lot of Valspar, too, and I like it. Maybe something was left out of the can of Colorplace that I bought that kept it from “hardening” properly.</p>
<p>I’ve never used Behr but have been happy with Benjamin Moore and Sherwin Williams products. However, I recall a slogan I once read on a paint forum: “Better bare than Behr.” The brand seems to have many disappointed customers.</p>
<p>Almost done painting! It looks great- so happy I like the color, I was worried because the Valspar Devine color that I picked (ale), was not quite like the color that was available in the Miller evolution brand, & it was so hard to decide on that color in the first place!</p>
<p>I also didn’t make sure my H who is doing the bulk of the painting agreed with me what should be the body color & what should be the trim before he started. ( our house has lots of trim, deep eaves, knee braces, bay window etc) He painted underneath the eaves the body color on one whole side of the house before I saw it. I quietly freaked out overnight until I asked him to redo it. :o</p>
<p>To my relief he happily agreed it would be better to paint it the trim color. Whew! Only the siding is the body color- everything else is trim. ( except the door and the horizontal surface of the porch and steps)</p>
<p>Can’t wait to move my plants next to the house.</p>