<p>I had to look up single hung windows also. 
Our house has the original 1913 windows. They don’t make em like that any more. We got new storms custom made–nothing in this house is a normal size!–for each instead of replacing them. H was interested in replacement windows, but I put my foot down. Not only would they reduce the window opening, but they are not built to last like the old ones.</p>
<p>I’m not exactly clear how single hung windows have an appearance any different than double hung? They just open from bottom only, top doesn’t drop down. Double hung just not necessary here. </p>
<p>I have 16 windows total in this order with three large 6ft casements and one 6ft slider. Total cost after 15% sale and then using my 10% competitor coupon was $3,200 before tax. These are Jeld Wen medium quality dual pane white vinyl. We have to use vinyl in coastal environment. Ordered their premium line windows. Wood with special exterior clad probably would be double cost.</p>
<p>A good estimate for retrofit window install is $100/window. If a lot of interior or exterior trim needed, labor cost would be more.</p>
<p>cb, that’s a very good price for the entire house. I know it’s not a huge house. We had an estimate for new windows in S1’s small house in Cincinnati and windows for the whole house (including labor) was something like $6,500, for plain – albeit ginormous – double hung windows. </p>
<p>
Single-hung just means the upper sash is fixed in place and can’t be opened.</p>
<p>I got fiberglass replacement windows for my house (Marvin Infinity) and the rails and stiles were actually thinner than in the original wood windows, so overall we gained glass area. They cost less than $600/window installed and were custom-built to the quarter-inch. We were replacing 1960’s contractor-grade windows. A quality custom vinyl replacement window goes for around $350.</p>
<p>I’ve replaced plenty of early 1900’s rope-and-pulley windows in my rentals… They are inefficient and a pain to maintain. None of them were nice enough to have any historical value, so they got junked. No more broken ropes and pulley cavities filled with 100 years of god-knows-what.</p>
<p>
I don’t think they really look different. But if a builder used a single-hung they would be considered to be cutting corners and being cheap, and it would open up questions about the rest of the job, and where else corners might have been cut.</p>
<p>But that may just be an east coast/northeast thing.</p>
<p>$3200 for all those windows and a door seems like a screaming good deal.</p>
<p>Doors not included in that price. The French doors are a separate order because they can only be made by one company that will do 48" wide French doors.</p>
<p>Because we are replacing old wood double hung with pulley, these are block frame windows that don’t have the outside vinyl trim flange. This 1936 stucco house has thick stucco with rounded bull nose to original windows so we are not going to put trim outside.</p>
<p>The old enclosed front porch has wood siding and so those windows will need to be trimmed. But I want to trim with nice wood.</p>
<p>So, these are technically ‘new construction’ windows so they probably cost less than retrofit.</p>
<p>I don’t remember if I’ve mentioned this before, but I was reminded of it tonight when I was buying stuff for a project.</p>
<p>Home Depot will give you a 5% discount off of your whole order if you have a Lowe’s credit card. The trick is you have to explicitly ask for the “5% Lowe’s discount”. They will not tell you about it or offer it.</p>
<p>At my local HD they never ask to see the Lowe’s card, and they have told me that at that store they never will. Use that knowledge wisely. ;)</p>
<p>The only reason I know about it is a renegade clerk told me about it, even though they are not supposed to.</p>
<p>cb, I continue to appreciate your updates. I think you made the right choice about the accordion kitchen window. As for single- versus double-hung elsewhere in the house, I appreciate having double-hung windows here in the PNW since it seems we get better ventilation opening both the top and bottom windows as opposed to opening bottom only, but this is probably something that varies depending on microclimate. You’d know better than the rest of us would if this is a consideration in your house’s area. Please keep the updates coming!</p>
<p>I have quite a secret collection of Lowe’s 10% coupons but it is complicated to get them and complicated to use them at Home Depot. Generally, if you have a printed coupon from an email, you cannot use it at Home Depot because you can reprint hundreds of them and they cannot cancel the bar code because it is Lowe’s bar code. But, if you can get your hands on the small actual Lowe’s coupons, they will take those at Home Depot.</p>
<p>Also, if you join the ‘Pro’ program you can get coupons via email quite a lot from Home Depot. I think anyone can join, they don’t seem to care.</p>
<p>Not worth all the trouble unless you are about to do a large renovation project</p>
<p>Bathroom Design</p>
<p>The crew is digging out the trenches and laying the footings for connecting the back shed to the main house. We have to strip out the plumbing, gas and drain lines running to the shed in order to pour the footings (except the toilet of course, because I cannot live without it!!!). So, suddenly the new bathroom design has become an emergency.</p>
<p>Have been working on it for hours and I found this on Houzz for inspiration on layout for a very small bathroom. This is going to be the basic design of the new small bathroom</p>
<p><a href=“Filbert Street - Transitional - Bathroom - San Francisco - by Studio G+S Architects | Houzz”>Filbert Street - Transitional - Bathroom - San Francisco - by Studio G+S Architects | Houzz;
<p>That looks like a good use of space. Ha, going to look of ot would work for one of our bathrooms that needs renovation… </p>
<p>I like the clever way the shower is not a rectangle, but the door is on the diagonal to save space. Because its two sides are completely glass, it feels very open in spite of the door cutting off a corner of the rectangle. </p>
<p>(Did that make sense? I haven’t had my coffee allotment yet.)</p>
<p>Our master bath is only 5x7, and we have a layout that is the same as in the photo, including the diagonal corner shower unit (although ours unfortunately has a metal frame around all the glass panels, which doesn’t look as nice, and a pre-made fiberglass pan).</p>
<p>It works well. The only caveat is to not get too small a shower unit. Some of them are pretty small, and I am pretty large. In the smaller ones there is barely room to turn around, and you will be banging your elbows. I’ll measure it when I get home tonight.</p>
<p>This shower design is very similar to the one we did in the Spanish bungalow. Smart use of space. I have made this larger. One of the things I usually do is go into the space and have the guys lay down 2 x 4s where the shower dam is going to be and then I will stand inside and make sure that it feels useable … well, I have my XXL lead stand in it and see if he can use it Then I make him sit on a bucket at the toilet location and see if it feels cramped for him. He’s my guinea pig!</p>
<p>The key to this small shower is to use a rain head shower that directs spray downward instead of sideways, whether it is on a long arm from the wall or plumbed from the ceiling. A standard shower head is going to direct spray outward at the glass because of the small space. I’m always careful about placement of the shower control valve versus the entry door versus the shower head. Ideally, I would like to have the ability to reach into a shower, turn on the water and step back for a minute while the water is getting hot… without getting soaking wet. Since I have to build this custom, there is no reason that the valve has to be centered under the shower arm, it can be anywhere we want it to be.</p>
<p>I could have used a fiberglass unit from Home Depot or Lowes, but I prefer to have a nice tiled custom shower for selling the house. The exterior dimensions of the factory units is 38" x 38" total exterior. I think this one is going to be 41" total exterior. Also, I want the frameless glass style (probably going to be at least $800 extra) A fiberglass unit doesn’t ‘wow’.</p>
<p>I think the small little tiled shower in this photo looks lovely without looking like it is cheap or cramped.</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>That is brilliant.</p>
<p>We have a shower hose setup similar to this picture:</p>
<p><a href=“Walkin Master Bathroom Shower - Transitional - Bathroom - Bridgeport - by Kitchen & Bath Design + Construction | Houzz”>Walkin Master Bathroom Shower - Transitional - Bathroom - Bridgeport - by Kitchen & Bath Design + Construction | Houzz;
<p>This is nice because you can adjust the height and angle, and the hose makes cleaning easier.</p>
<p>I recall our shower pan being bigger than 38" but it was 20+ years ago… the biggest drawback to the fiberglass pan is that you can’t use a frame-less glass setup - because it is hollow, the weight of the glass would be too heavy. We didn’t know that when we started and the contractor never said anything, and we didn’t find out until after the pan was installed and the walls tiled… by that point it was too late, so we had to settle for metal-framed glass.</p>
<p>Another week gone by and it visually doesn’t look like we accomplished anything!!</p>
<p>PROGRESS
Wiring complete for kitchen, dining area and living room. We only have new wires sticking out of the wall from the new boxes, no outlets or switches yet</p>
<p>Windows and doors cut into exterior with new headers.</p>
<p>Front porch enclosure just had old linoleum tile slapped down on the concrete. Floor was sloped outward, like a porch should be for water runoff… We shimmed it level and put new subfloor in to get ready for hardwood installation to seamlessly (hopefully!) weave into living room floor.</p>
<p>Had to cut concrete trenches in shed floor to lay new ABS drain lines from new bathroom through new footing. We didn’t use old line location because bathroom is moving to SE corner of the room.</p>
<p>Dug trenches around exterior and formed for new footings around shed and connecting to main house. Poured the longest footing. This wasn’t easy. Took two trips to Home Depot to pick up 40 sixty
pound bags of concrete. Each bag had to be hauled up those stairs one by one. Then they had to mix concrete in a big pile on the shed floor because there was no way to get a mixer up there! Old school.</p>
<p>No toilet or sink anymore…it will be at least a week before toilet goes in! We have to pour a lot of expensive self leveling cement before we can even mount a temporary toilet. </p>
<p>Go have a hot bath and a cold beer. You deserve it!</p>
<p>“Each bag had to be hauled up those stairs one by one”</p>
<p>I’m visualizing the TV commercial for progressive insurance where Flo effortlessly hauls 3 bags of sackrete… 
Only a person who has ever had a chance to lift one of those suckers would understand the humor. :)</p>
<p>Enjoy a cold one and relax. </p>