Yes, very nice.
So tell us about this Outlet at Sears – is it returned merchandise? Last year’s model? Scratches and dings? If not, why is it so cheap in the outlet?
VH. I know folks who have happily shopped at the Sears outlet nearer to here. I’m not sure where it is located. Some of the models have small cosmetic blemishes…but usually on the sides or where they don’t show. Some are returns.
Our stove is Whirlpool. Our dishwasher is Bosch. Our fridge is GE, and our microwave is GE. The different brands look fine together. No problem.
Was going to say thre same. Fridge and cooktop are GE, oven is Kitchen Aid and Dishwasher is sears
I always start at our local Sears Outlet store. If you are lucky enough to have one near you.
The Sears Outlet stores have a ton of appliances and some other strange stuff. Anythinf returned to Sears for any reason is considered ‘out of the box’ and is transferred to the Outlet store.
Many are damaged in shipping. Biggest bargains are damage to the front. But the majority have small dents or scratches onsides or back. I certainly don’t care if its $500 off 
Others were returned immediately for no reason at all. Some are returned bbecause something was broken and then they repair and certify them.
Most don’t have the install or user manual but nowadays that is easy to print off on the Internet.
Best part is they all still have the one year warranty intact. But i learned the hard way, warning, warranty starts day they deliver (all appliances from anywhere, not just Outlet). So try to hold off delivery as long as possible. Its another chickdn and egg thing. You need to buy/select appliances before you can design and order kitchen cabinets. In my case at the Outket they will only hold 3-5 days. So appliances could be sitting in garage for months before they get installed and tested.
Outlet is kind of like a TJMaxx or similar. You have to weed through a lot of junk to find the gems. And i have found Viking stoves, gorgeous LG refrigerators, etc.
Especially good for washers and dryers
Regarding appliances from same brand. I try, but sometimes I don’t care for the value, price or features of the ‘matching’ appliance by same manufacturer. What I try to focus on is that they have the same stainless color and sheen and same handle style. I do agree that different handle styles across the kitchen doesn’t look good, but they don’t have to necessarily be the same brand.
For example, I like certain stove brands better than others, and there are certain ‘name’ brands for dishwashers. A Jenn Air stove is very good, but their dishwashers suck. A Bosch dishwasher is better - as long as it has flat front style and doesn’t compete with refrigerator.
Handle style is usually determined by the refrigerator because that has the largest, most prominent handles. It also depends how close together all these things are visually.
Another note about Sears Outlet. The website seems to only have negative reviews of everything purchased there. I’m guessing the people who have had a big problem are the only ones who write a review onto the Outlet website. I personally have never had a problem with any appliance purchased from the Outlet, and have never received any calls from buyers. But maybe I’m lucky
Some brands that make superb stoves do not make fridges. Does it mean that as a home buyer, I’m doomed if I decide to go with a better stove than the one my favorite fridge manufacturer makes? Heck no. Matching appliances, IMO, are a tradition stemming from spec homes. B-)
We go to Albert Lee “garage sale” or buy their floor models. There is nothing wrong with a few side dents.
Another place you see matching appliances is when low end flippers (check their listing photos!!) buy the ‘package’ deal, usually Frigidaire. I’m not saying matching appliances are wrong, I just don’t think it is a hard and fast rule. I get some pleasure out of finding the very best appliance for the function (ohh, and good looking too) - at a scratch and dent, floor model or discontinued price!
As we speak I am off to Sears Outlet again this evening because they didn’t have a dishwasher or cooktop I wanted. I want to check one more time to see if they have a new shipment so that I can get everything bundled into one delivery charge.
Dang… they had a gorgeous Dacor cooktop with a center 18,000BTU burner for only $599, no cosmetic damage that I could see. I got all excited and then got the measuring tape out of my purse. 36" Why oh why couldn’t it have been 30" ??
Question… with a 30" cooktop is it more impressive to have that 5th burner in the middle? I don’t have the 5th center burner on my stove at home, but I’m guessing that if you put something big on that middle burner you cannot really use any of the other burners?
I think you are right - 4 burners is plenty for a 30" cooktop. Mine has 2 big and 2 small burners located diagonally, so the cooking space is maximized.
Coralbrook, the Sears Outlet website has a Dacor 30" for not much more. Not sure if you can buy and pick up locally:
BUDGET UPDATE
We have finalized the plans and they are ready to be submitted to Engineer on Monday.
Original Estimate was $82,500
My new estimate is $116,000
This estimate is still rough because I have not seen the requirements from the structural engineer so I’m just taking a stab in the dark on the deck costs and drywall/framing costs. My biggest fear is that I will have to take off all drywall and plaster off all walls downstairs in order to do shear walls and insulate. That will add a large additional cost
SPENT TO DATE = $11,100
Man, money goes out fast!!
This does not include a large cost for roofing materials and roofing labor this weekend. Had to go to the bank and load up on cash to pay all these guys over the weekend
Demolition = $1,925
Plumbing = $3,500
Electrical = $2,350
Framing and Drywall = $2,142
Permit Stuff and Misc = $1,182
I had a big wake up call this week. I called in two guys to give estimates on new hardwood install for addition area upstairs (had carpet which we tore out), new install for kitchen area and sanding/refinishing original floors. First guy was $8,000. He was my guy I have used for seven years now. Had to call another guy and negotiate $7,200. Yikes yikes yikes. I feel really bad about not using the guy I have used for seven years who is absolutely excellent, but unfortunately $800 is $800 My original budget was only about $5,000 so I am way over in this area. Not to mention all the new flooring that will need to get installed downstairs. Haven’t decided what flooring to select. It will probably be a high grade laminate because it wears really well.
Question will be what to put on the stairs. Honestly carpet is the safest thing for stairs, but it will look really odd. Flooring guy recommended using the laminate all the way up the stairs but it will probably look stupid against the original oak floors on top floor. Big dilemma! Heck, I will probably run out of budget by then anyways and it will all be carpet downstairs and on the staircase:)
We put a sewage ejection pump in our very first house (which we still own and rent out) when we re-did the basement. It was not all that expensive, and has been very reliable. I think in almost 30 years we’ve only had to replace the pump once. It’s needed service once or twice when something when down the drain that the grinder couldn’t handle.
Are you going to raise the toilet and tub so you don’t have to jack up the floor for the drain pipes?
Give him a chance to match, on an $8000 job he should have the room if he wants the job.
If you know your floor guy is good then I think it’s worth 800. Maybe he will split the difference with you.
Another option is to have your carpenter and crew install it, wood flooring is really not that hard. Laminate is really easy. I’ve installed them both before, and if I can do it… Lumber Liquidators and electric nailers make it easy. they could probably knock that out in a day.
Then you can just have someone refinish. If you use prefinished for the new stuff, you save on finishing that part.
Unfortunately the 30" Dacor on the website is located in MO