We have a two story center hall, lots of windows, and 9’ ceilings so the heat doesn’t stay where I want it! This week’s subzero temperatures have me shivering in a sweater and wool socks if I sit still for a while.
I’m guessing you don’t live in a very cold place, so you don’t have to worry about frozen pipes? When it’s bitterly cold, say in the teens and lower, we have to open any cabinet doors where a water pipe might be. I live in an old house. Some of the piping is too close to outside walls, so we will make sure the door to that room is open as well.
We moved to our current home nearly 20 years ago after living in a more temperate climate. We were clueless and had a few frozen pipes that first winter. I had to call a plumber who was trying to help me figure out why the house was so cold. I have a very large fireplace in the main room. We had (foolishly) thought it might help to burn a couple of Duralogs, which makes me laugh now. It never occurred to me that the flue was sucking all the warm air out of the house, and the Duralog was doing absolutely nothing to help warm things up. The plumber took one look and said “you have to get rid of those asap.” I picked them up with firetongs and threw them right out the door. We installed a wood burning stove in time for the next winter, which produces a lot of heat (Jotul, in case anyone is interested. It’s amazing.)
I have wondered what difference more insulation in walls might make - for both extreme seasons. Is there a way a professional can tell what you have??
I was introduced to this pet bed recently- I’m super tempted to get one for our dog - to be honest mauve H and need a human version for the winter, lol
You mean if there’s insulation or not and if there is, what it is?
You can have an energy assessment done. In many states these can be done free of charge by your local utility company. They will go around the house looking at light bulbs, looking for air migration (drafts) and insulation levels - typically using an infrared camera.
Our utility company does energy audits at no charge, and will give suggestions, offer low cost ways to deal with things like windows and insulation, and even just do some simple things like replacing exterior door gaskets. They tell you what you need to do to minimize your costs both for electricity and HVAC.
68 daytime, 65 nighttime. 74 for AC during the day and when it’s so hot we need it at night I turn it down to 70. That’s pretty much the edge of what is comfortable for us. Combined gas/electric bill runs around $200 per month with recent rate hikes and the acquisition of an EV.
68 during the day, 60 at night. I sleep with the bedroom window open 365 days a year. And I have a gas fire in the living room that the cats and I enjoy most winter evenings.
We average $180/month on utilities. 120 year old house, 3 stories plus a finished basement.
Our main heat loss culprits were the original leaded glass windows which we have everywhere but the basement. We did some “upgrades” after our first winter (which was the Polar Vortex of '19) so now we have “triple track” storm windows on all the windows, new modern windows in the basement, new storm doors, weather stripping, and we repaired the flue which wasn’t closing properly. The basement is heated now on its own HVAC system. That’s all helped tremendously.
@Lindagaf I open cabinets and also run water before bed and when I get up, if temps outside are below 25. In my old house, some pipes were in the outside part of the cellar and we used a hairdryer at times.
Tip for those who turn the temp down a good bit at night…first thing in the morning is a GREAT time to exercise inside before you turn the heat up!! Doesn’t take much for me to get heated up when doing cardio so you’ll find me at 6am in shorts and a tshirt feeling plenty warm! I’ll turn the heat back to “regular” temps before I leave for work (and H is still sleeping…)
When we both worked, it was 62 when we were at work, 68 at home, 65 asleep.
Now that I am home, it’s 67 daytime, 65 asleep. My mom is coming to stay for a couple weeks and her house is “cold” at 73 so I will be in tshirts for February (not about to make a 90 yr old acclimate to her childhood in a drafty Boston house with a coal stove). We have central air but rarely use it in the summer, but if we do it is usually at night, not daytime.
We have a heat pump and are on a budget plan that balances the year’s bills across 12 months --usually we are paying between 150-200 a month. My inlaws run their house at 75 all day long and are paying a LOT more than that.
Our compromise is 69 day/67 night in the coldest days of winter (not that many in TX). I would prefer 67 day/64 night, wife would prefer surface-of-the-sun day/blast-oven night. We usually need to run the A/C from March until November, and this year well into December. 74 day/69 night.
*I’d keep it colder than 72 in summer but ….Florida elec rates skyrocket and we’ve have some crazy high elec bills ($1200 once.:…but typically $700-800 in summer).
It kills me. (And our house roof pitch is not solar panel compatible.) We do use ceiling fans daily to help keep it cool, too.