<p>We’ve done grey and we’ve done green. Got green now, but I do think that the grey showed less dirt/debris. But…if I had it to do all over again, I’d go with what I used in the back – a semi-solid (ie, not very transparent) grey/green – it wears much more nicely than the paint does, and we can restain with much greater ease. When I replace the front and side porch eventually we’ll try to go with that.</p>
<p>Gray is very common for porch floors. I think it’s pretty timeless and neutral. We did our last porch floor in a slate blue, which I liked a lot and the current owners have kept. Cream sounds weird to me for an outdoor floor. If you want to have fun you can do what’s very common is some parts of the States and paint the ceiling of the porch a pale sky blue.</p>
<p>Just to illustrate grey floors with white door for your reference:</p>
<p><a href=“http://creforum.info/re/P1100456.JPG[/url]”>http://creforum.info/re/P1100456.JPG</a></p>
<p>The grey floor does hide a lot of dirt, but if the debris are white, it shows.</p>
<p>I think grey goes with the white doors. Right now my front door is white, and the porch is grey, and it looks good.</p>
<p>The “in” colors, according to my realtor, are beige walls with white trim for the inside, and tan with white trim and a black door for the outside. The painter are still here, day 10 of what was supposed to be a 10 day job. It is now extending to 12 days. He was going to go for 13, but I threw a hissy fit with my realtor (its her painter) and there will be additional crew so it will be done Saturday.</p>
<p>Color me confused – what is the difference between beige and tan?</p>
<p>I think tan is darker than beige.</p>
<p>I would consider beige a shade of white, and tan a shade of brown.</p>
<p>Thanks all.</p>
<p>My cream idea is a pic I saw that looks nothing like my porch: <a href=“http://www.aeratis.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/homepage-1.jpg[/url]”>http://www.aeratis.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/homepage-1.jpg</a></p>
<p>A grey: <a href=“HugeDomains.com”>HugeDomains.com;
<p>A tan: <a href=“http://www.osterburgpa.com/top/uploads/310dd43980df37597671bb3f3fe76a54_back_porch_painted.jpg[/url]”>http://www.osterburgpa.com/top/uploads/310dd43980df37597671bb3f3fe76a54_back_porch_painted.jpg</a></p>
<p>I think the tan looks like landlord brown. The gray is a little bluer than I like. The beige looks surprisingly good. I think I’d like it at the beach.</p>
<p>“Landlord brown”? I don’t remember seeing that color at Home Depot. :D</p>
<p>Having now been to Lowes to get paint chips, I’m now between a creamy tan and a light grey.</p>
<p><a href=“https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G938fxPpZ5k/T5FkuAmMFyI/AAAAAAAAKiU/hI6OQaHTxQ4/s800/IMG_20120420_092817.jpg[/url]”>https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-G938fxPpZ5k/T5FkuAmMFyI/AAAAAAAAKiU/hI6OQaHTxQ4/s800/IMG_20120420_092817.jpg</a></p>
<p>Now that I see all the samples and the actual porch, I think gray will look really good with the inside of the windows being silver-ish. Cream might work too, but the gray seems like a better match to the coloring. Have fun deciding!</p>
<p>I forgot to say the picture I linked above is my actual porch, right now. Glad you figured that out Word :)</p>
<p>Grey may be “ordinary” but it will be clean and crisp and new and that is key right now. I am leaning that way.</p>
<p>wow, that is great… mom2. Which county is that? I heard Orange County is really hot right now.</p>
<p>Yes, the home is in Orange County.</p>
<p>Re: back up offers… Our Realtor advised us to keep taking back up offers since buyers are very flaky these days and they don’t seem to get penalized for backing out. It seems that they can back out (without penalty) if they just say that they don’t like what’s on the inspection report (even if minor) or whatever. </p>
<p>So, it seems that some buyers put down an offer, continue to “shop” for houses, and then if they soon find another home, they back out of the first offer by giving some lame reason and experience no penalty…and the seller is hurt because his home has been off the market during that time. </p>
<p>Crazy.</p>
<p>Isn’t that what earnest money/deposit is for?</p>
<p>Item #25 CAR California Residential Purchase Agreement:</p>
<p>Liquidated Damages: If Buyer fails to complete this purchase because of Buyer’s default, Seller shall retain, as liquidated damages, the deposit actually paid… bla bla</p>
<p>Did the buyer and seller initial that in that special box below?</p>
<p>In some auction sites, the EMD is 5% of the purchase price, that makes buyer difficult to back out.</p>
<p>^^^</p>
<p>and… Isn’t that what earnest money/deposit is for?</p>
<p>that’s what we thought. I guess it’s really hard to actually get to keep some/all of it without showing some substantial loss. And, I guess they can just say, “we don’t like what the inspection report contains.”</p>
<p>And…everyone knows that all inspection reports contain every tiny flaw in the home.</p>
<p>Yeah, i guess inspection is a standard out, whether the item is major or minor.</p>
<p>Every RE contract I’ve ever signed has an inspection contingency. In my state, you fill in a dollar amount, if the inspection turns up problems that cost more than that to fix, you can cancel the deal.</p>
<p>And everyone fills in $0, so…</p>
<p>Selling it “as is” might get around this, but then buyers just push the inspection up to before the final contract is signed.</p>
<p>Plus, you are almost certainly looking at litigation if you keep any of the money, regardless of whether you are entitled or not.</p>
<p>The inspection contingency should have a time frame to be removed, typically a week or so after the contract is signed. If that date is passed and the buyers haven’t removed it, the seller can send a notice to perform to the buyers to remove it. The buyers then have a choice of removing the contingency or cancelling the contract & forfeiting the deposit.</p>
<p>All contingencies should have very short timeframes for removal, with the possible exception of the financing contingency.</p>