if you've been to Ireland, information wanted

Parent Cafe
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<p>Like the OP, we, too, were mortified of driving on the left side, so we did not rent a car. If we ever go back, we would really try to muster the courage to rent a car because I think it is the best way to see Ireland. (Note: 17-year old son offered to do the driving but H and I politely said no.)</p>

<p>That said, we stayed for a few days in Dublin and took day trips by organized bus tours - there are tons of them out there. We also took in a play, Noel Coward’s “Private Lives.” For one of our day trips, we took the train and spent the day in Belfast. I used Rick Steves guidebook (I’m with emeralkity4; I’ve used his books a lot) and I contacted a private tour guide recommended by RS, and we truly had a memorable visit in Belfast. We wanted something central in Dublin, so we stayed in a hotel right next to Trinity College.</p>

<p>We headed on to Galway by train, stayed at the Petra House B&B (I think they are still rated no. 1 in tripadvisor) and also did day trips, including the Aran Islands. We went with a small tour group to explore the “ghosts” of Galway. This was actually quite fun and informative. </p>

<p>It rained 95% of the time we were there (August). Just make sure you bring rain gear and umbrella - they’re essential.</p>

<p>To make our visit easier, we flew to Dublin (grabbed a cab to the hotel - reasonably priced) and flew out of Shannon. We took CityLink bus from Galway to the Shannon Airport.</p>

<p>Ireland is a fabulous place to visit, and the Irish are the friendliest people you will encounter. By following RS’ restaurant suggestions, we had excellent meals. Dublin, though, like the rest of Europe, is expensive (to US travelers, that is).</p>

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<p>I was surprised at how quickly I adapted to driving on the left - I had done it in New Zealand years ago. In Ireland, there are roundabouts - traffic circles - everywhere and they were a little scary. My friend and I laughed because I don’t think I got off one of them without having to circle more than once. The signs have about 10 different cities that all seem to start with “kil” written in tiny letters. I couldn’t believe how fast the Irish drove on those narrow little roads - you have to just get out of their way.</p>

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<p>ok… this is a working agenda. Heard back from my brother who was in Ireland last fall, and he highly recommended heading up to the Antrim coast in Northern Ireland, which he says will provide us with the environment we’re looking for - he gave me the name of the B&B/working sheep farm they stayed at, and LOVED (sounds sooooo cool to me!). Up there we’d do the Giants Causeway, rope bridge, Glenariffe Forest (with endless walking paths) etc.</p>

<p>He recommended heading down to Doolin in County Clare(supposedly the capitol of traditional Irish music) which is within an hour’s drive of many places we’d like to see (Aran Islands, Cliffs of Moher, etc.) for the remainder of the trip. We would probably stop in Sligo and Galway in route to break up the drive, then could also spend some time around Connemara before getting to Doolin. When we’re ready to head home, we’d be relatively close to the Shannon airport.</p>

<p>As highly recommended as Dingle comes, and I’d love to see it, it’s just adding on too much to the visit. It sounds lovely, though, and I will probably regret we don’t get to stay longer. My brother also highly recommended a GPS with the car rental, but said to know the best roads before we start out or it’ll take us on glorified bike paths!</p>

<p>By the way, he also recommended reading Leon Uris’ Trinity before going (actually he recommended re-reading it, assuming I’d already read it). Any thoughts on that?</p>

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I agree wholeheartedly. “Trinity” is a great book for understanding “the troubles” and a lot more about Ireland and her people. Uris, rest his soul, and his wife at the time, Jill, also put together a wonderful pictorial book called “Ireland, A Terrible Beauty.” It’s well worth a look if you can get your hands on it.</p>

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I don’t think a GPS will be necessary or even particularly helpful. The Irish are very creative with their road signage, which is often little more than a post with some names attached. Those names might be towns, roads, restaurants, churches, markets, historical markers, etc. In the west, those names are often in Irish. I think a good map (and maybe a compass!) would suffice. :)</p>

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Can’t argue with that. I don’t know that I’d try to see anything else beyond that if you only have a few days.</p>

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If you want to attempt much beyond the Antrim coast, I would recommend some selective pruning on your choices. The Aran Islands are unique and a true “Irish” experience; but you’ll have to get a boat over there and the only one leaves early in the morning. The Aran Islands are a full day trip. (And if you’re not into natural beauty and history, there isn’t a whole lot to see there.) The Cliffs of Moher are a must-see for many people, so understand that there are ALWAYS hordes of tourists and tour buses there.</p>

<p>Sligo isn’t all that close to Galway. To me, it would be pushing it to try to see and do justice to both. I’d have a hard time choosing, but I think I’d pick Sligo (partially because of Yeats, but that region is wild and beautiful and I love it) and add some of County Mayo and then Connemara if there’s time. Since you’ll be there close to St. Patrick’s Day, you might want to consider Westport (in County Mayo) near Croagh Patrick. A charming coastal town that’s a good substitute for Dingle IMO. There’s a famous memorial to the famine, a bronze ship with skeletons for the rigging, in a park at the foot of Croagh Patrick.</p>

<p>If you’re going out of Shannon, Bunratty Castle is very near the airport. Yeah, it’s a major tourist trap but still fun. </p>

<p>No matter where you go or what you do, you will love it. Enjoy!</p>

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<p>If you do rent a car, be sure to check whether it has automatic or manual transmission. The trickiest part of driving on the left is adjusting to shifting with your left hand.</p>

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<p>Puzzled88, I had absolutely no problem with the manual as the gas/brake/clutch pedals are the same. The only problem with the left hands shift was occasionally reaching with my right hand instead. And yes a previous poster is correct, the Irish drive crazy fast on narrow twisting roads. BTW the BofA World card is the only one I could find that had accident insurance in the Republic and Northern Ireland. I did have a minor accident due in part to an oncoming Irishman who wanted to take his half out of the middle around a curve and they covered all costs.</p>

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<p>This is a very good point. Remember to request an automatic car in advance because they’re pretty unusual. Otherwise if you will turn up at the rental place and ask, probably the people will look at you like you are mad.</p>

<p>The St Patricks day parade in Dublin is in no way authentic. It has only been around for about 10 years and started because so many American tourists turned up and aksed why nothing was happening. In other words, it’s designed to copy the American tradition, not an Irish one. </p>

<p>About clothes, personally I wouldn’t worry because if people know you are an American tourist, who cares? It’s not like you’re back-packing in Afganistan. However, the give away tends to be sportswear that is far too clean/new to have ever been actually used for sports. Especially bright white sneakers. Especially on the over 40s. Or shorts worn by over 16s while not actually on the beach.</p>

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<p>Teriwtt, we had a completely blissful week in Lahinch last year, in a house right on the water in the bay. It’s just minutes away from Dulin, and likewise a very short drive to a couple of different ferry options for seeing the Cliffs of Moher from the water, and, if you want, the Aran Islands (though as has been pointed out, getting there & looking around does require a fair time commitment).
Your itinerary sounds WONDERFUL - PM me if you’d like any specific suggestions on places to eat, etc.</p>

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<p>And yes, people in Dublin dress like people in NYC. Out in the country, less so. Layers, layers, layers are the way to go - though you’ll probably want to buy some sweater layers while you’re there. A thin “nice” t-shirt (like a Gap favorite t) with a lightweight sweater over your shoulders until you need it can take you a long way. Keen makes great waterproof shoes that look like regular clogs; you’ll most likely appreciate something waterproof for your feet and for the rest of you. And you can be comfortable without looking touristy - though truly nobody will care.
And I bet you know all this already. I’m just blathering on because it’s infinitely more fun to think about planning and packing for a trip to Ireland than anything else on my agenda!</p>

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<p>Thanks for all the new suggestions. For those sharing opinions about the driving, we will be renting a car, and will rent ahead so we can get an automatic; my brother also forewarned us of another issue to be aware of… remember to put diesel in the car. He forgot at one fill-up and it cost him $175.</p>

<p>Well, while we originally had planned to stay at a B&B in Glenariffe (Northern Ireland), it appears that may not happen. I e-mailed the place a couple of weeks ago, and never heard back from them. As I was looking through some tourist brochures my brother sent me, it says this B&B is only open April through December. So we’re back to the drawing board as to where to stay on the Antrim Coast.</p>

<p>The Sligo stop is for a stay overnight to break up the drive. Also, H’s company has a plant in Sligo, so he will spend one morning there (while I explore the town on foot); this means the company will pay for that night’s accommodation. Galway will probably just be an overnight stop, too, since we won’t get away from Sligo until afternoon and don’t want to feel rushed to get to Doolin.</p>

<p>Harriet - I will probably PM you. The place you stayed at sounds great. However, the little research I’ve done suggests that most house/cottage rentals are only handled by the week. And thanks for the tips about clothes/dress.</p>