<p>I’ll try to pune it away. Hope that I don’t further stimulate its growth. How disappointing that White Flower Farm would sell root suckers. That’s where I got this witch hazel.</p>
<p>It seems that your shrub has was grafted onto particularly vigorous rootstock. After you prune off the unwanted growth, check the plant regularly and continue to remove any new growth (which should be below the graft). </p>
<p>I have a contorted filbert that was grafted onto non-contorted rootstock. New, non-contorted growth regularly appears at the base of the trunk (and occasionally a little higher). I pinch this growth off every few weeks during the growing season. Not a big deal and there is nothing wrong with the plant or in the propagation technique - this is commonly done to ensure that the shrub or tree can thrive in a variety of environments. Specimen plants can be a bit picky and this type of propagation makes them easier to grow.</p>
<p>How disappointing that White Flower Farm would sell root suckers</p>
<p>Roses often do the same thing- you have to watch 'em!</p>
<p>I try and lean toward native to my area plants- but my witch hazel was fairly good sized and free ( the Bellevue Botanical garden was " changing" their beds)</p>
<p>I do grow shrub roses however & my pears are supposedly grafted onto " semi dwarf" rootstock
we’ll see.</p>
<p>Re potatoes traditionally are planted on St. Patricks Day- but if the ground is frozen you may want to wait a bit.
;)</p>
<p>Grafting is the norm for many ornamentals that would otherwise not survive well. Most of the ornamental cherries - like ours - are grafted. You just have to clip off the suckers every now and then.</p>
<p>Roses should say if they’re grafted because sometimes the graft will die back and you have a different, more vigorous but less attractive rose.</p>
<p>If you got the witch hazel from White Flower Farm, give them a call and ask them about how to care for it and what’s going on. I’ve found their customer service to be absolutely amazing!</p>
<p>I don’t know how they will respond after so many years. I didn’t know anything was wrong. Every year, I waited for it to mature. I just assumed a few branches are young. Leaves were small as well on those branches. There were some minor emergencies to tend to at homefront. Then I totally forgot about it until I saw this thread.</p>
<p>I have a stewardia on the patio. It loses its flowers as soon as they open. Although there are many buds, I rarely get to see flowers on the tree. Very pretty tree, perfect color for its surroundings. How could I help it keep flowers?</p>
<p>Anyone have experience with “let’s dance moonlight hydrangea”?</p>
<p>Don’t prune it now.</p>
<p>[How</a> to Prune Hydrangea Plants-Expert Advice for the Novice | Garden Harvest Supply](<a href=“http://blog.gardenharvestsupply.com/2011/05/17/how-to-prune-hydrangea-plants-expert-advice-for-the-novice/]How”>http://blog.gardenharvestsupply.com/2011/05/17/how-to-prune-hydrangea-plants-expert-advice-for-the-novice/)</p>
<p>Don’t own one yet.</p>
<p>This is a relatively new hybrid hydrangea which blooms on old wood and on new growth. I have several in my yard - they are low growing with lots of vigorous blooms and thick, shiny leaves. They seem to take a few years to establish and increase in size. My best advice is to plant them in a semi-shaded, protected spot - they hate to bake in the late afternoon sun. You may actually see a new plant appear wilted for a few hours on a very hot day, then perk up when the sun sets. </p>
<p>I suggest planting them under the umbrella of a deciduous tree, or against a wall or fence where they will be somewhat shaded and protected from the wind. They should not need pruning for several years, if at all. They are a beautiful, decorative plant which really require little care as long as planted in a good location.</p>
<p>Thanks, Gm! Sounds like the spot I have in mind would work.</p>