@mikemac Thank you! I am open to renting a car for a few days as long as the area that I am in isn’t full of crazy drivers or scary roads (think Kahekili Hwy or Going to the Sun Rd. Glad I did them but hard pass on similar death defying driving ever again). Regarding culling my options, I keep reminding myself that wherever I do settle on will be amazing. I had always said/planned that my first trip to Italy would be 2 summer months in a villa with a pool in Tuscany but since this opportunity to travel alone has popped up, I’ve had to do a major reset on my vision. Super excited though. Doing whatever I want every single day? Who knew that could be a thing?
This intel is the ONLY reason I changed my mind (well that and the fact that I got a premium economy nonstop seat on a flight out of Rome for 30K miles and $200. Lol) BUT I live on an island with 17k people so there is a good chance that our definitions of big city diverge a bit.
Historic Center (Centro Storico): This is the core area most visitors explore. It is relatively small at just over 5 square miles (14 square kilometers), making it highly walkable—you can walk from one side to the other in about an hour.
Rome as a tourist isn’t that large but PACKED with things to see. Easily navigated. So things aren’t far apart but it is well named the “city of seven hills” so it’ll tire you out!
My best advice is don’t. There is so much in Italy that can be reached by train you won’t run out of things to see and do on this first trip. A car is much easier with two people, one to drive and the other to navigate and watch signs (especially the dreaded ZTL). If you want to see more of the countryside there are tours from just about any large city (Florence, Bologna, etc) and many medium cities that will take you out for the day.
If you really want a car then be sure to understand what the ZTL’s are since you can get expensive tickets for going into locals-only streets. Always scrupulously obey posted speed limits; locals know where the speed cameras are but you don’t. Cars are really much less of a thing in rural Italy (or rural Europe) than they are in the States so we’ve never found it a problem to drive if that helps allay your concerns. Traffic is often light off the autostrada, which you can simply avoid.
I would suggest renting a car from AutoEurope which is a US-based consolidator. They are there to help if there are any issues. If you rent from Hertz or any other US-based company website and there’s a problem they throw up their hands and say “gee, you really rented from Hertz Italy and we only did the courtesy of arranging it; take things up with them.” Get zero-deductible coverage. Be sure to understand the road signs – take a look at https://www.europeafrica.army.mil/Portals/19/documents/RegistryofMotorVehicles/TrafficSigns.pdf
Much as I loved Venice three days is plenty. 2 1/2 might even do it. Agree with at least three days in Rome. So much to see and much of it’s walkable (if you’re a walker). While there are parts that feel like a big city in many ways it does not. Subway is easy to use. Trains and buses are fairly easy in Italy though I find the various apps a bit wonky when buying tickets.
With a combination of the great advice here and input from ChatGPT, I am getting more focused. Can those of you who have been to the Cinque Terra give me some insight? I am a walker (and would like to walk the entire Cinque Terra trail (road?) split over to days. Could you weigh in on potential problems with either of these ideas?
Day 1: Arrive at hotel in Monterosso. Lunch, explore -Afternoon walk to Vernazza. (Hiking Time 1 1/2 to 2 hours) Explore and Dinner. -Bus or train back to hotel.
Day 2: Bus or train to Vernazza.
Walk to Corniglia. (1 1/2 hours) Lunch. –Walk to Manarola (1 1/2 hours) Explore. Snacks/Drinks Walk to Riomagiorre (30 minutes) Dinner. Train back to Monterosso
Day 3: Depart for Florence
OR: What about staying in Corniglia (the central village) and hiking to the two towns to the north one day and the two towns to the south on the 2nd day? Why don’t people do that? Is Corniglia too boring? Too much elevation gain one direction? (I don’t care about the nightlife).
We often rent cars in Italy but the driving can definitely be challenging - Italians drive like maniacs and some of the rural roads are narrow, steep and winding (the trifecta). I’d skip going south of Rome as it would take a lot of travel time - secondary cities that I’ve liked in Italy which might be doable for you - Mantua, Bologna, Ravenna, Parma, Siena, Verona. I’d also put in a word for Venice - although it can be crowded, smelly and touristy there is something grand and magical about it. If possible I think people should see it once. You can’t go wrong with any decision - of the countries I’ve visited more than once, Italy is among the favorites.
We’ve walked along the trails between towns but it was many years ago so I can’t remember details other than that we were on the lower trails and it was amazingly scenic. We stayed in Monterosso and to this day I still remember a seafood stew dinner at Ristorante Belvedere. The reason I earlier suggested staying in Levanto is the CT has become so popular hotels fill early and can be expensive; by staying in what is literally the first town north you can save money and perhaps have an easier time finding a hotel. But if you find something in CT I’m sure it will be fine.
You could add a 3rd day (or more) to explore surrounding towns. You may have heard of Portofino? Skip it, a pretty harbor but not much else IMO. And it’s not on the train line. But nearby is Santa Margherita Ligure, a delightful town 3 miles on foot from Portofino with a pedestrian-only core and a train station. You can find walking tour videos online to see what it looks like. It’s a personal favorite.
On the peninsula not far south of the CT is Porto Venere, another small town well worth a visit. You can get there by bus (not train) but a better idea is to take the ferry. Schedules are at Boat excursions Cinque Terre 2026 The ferry also goes across the bay to Lerici, a town similar to the CT towns but less known to American tourists (popular among Italians though). There are said to be hiking trails from there but I don’t have any personal experience.
Depending on how relaxed you want your day to be you could head to Santa Margherita Ligure in the morning and thru lunch, then take the train back and the ferry out to Porto Venere in the afternoon.
My last trip to Florence was for eight nights so five seems like not enough for me, but that’s because I’m obsessed with Florence. I’d add a night to Rome and make sure to get to Pompeii. I haven’t done Cinque Terre but would love that.
Agree about not driving. The cabs we took were scary enough on skinny roads in the countryside. I can’t imagine making those drives alone.
I love Florence. 5 days in Florence is perfect. I think Venice is a must see. Westin hotels have best locations. I have stayed at the Excelsior hotel Lido a few times. It’s convenient to take a water shuttle to Venice.
I know a very good private tour guide in Rome if you are interested.
You have some good recommendations for Florence and some Tuscany towns.
The Piedmont region (northern part of Italy) is also beautiful, great wine region.
I am going to Puglia in April. It’s an area i haven’t been before.
I used to go to the Eastern coast quite a bit. It’s a lot less touristy.
Ooh. I’m currently planning a fall trip to Emilia-Romagna, Umbria, Abruzzo and Puglia. If you’re familiar with any of those I’d love to get some feedback from you.
I thought I would post an update on my plans.
3 nights in Venice
4 nights in Florence
2 nights in the Cinque Terre area
3 nights in Siena (with day trips)
3 nights in Rome
Chatgpt actually helped me figure out the most efficient route with respect to flight from Athens to any of my areas and train trips but you all REALLY helped me focus. Thank you!
My DH thanks you.
. You need more time