We have wood furniture in both the master and guest room, neither which match the hardwoods. Never gave it a second thought! With bedding and such it’s a non issue for me.
PS. Inexpensive but nice looking area rugs can be found on Wayfair.
Safavieh brand area rugs are good quality and can be found on Wayfair, Amazon, and Costco online. I would not worry about furniture matching or not matching floors. As other posters said, there is plenty of fabrics and accent pieces in the bedroom to break up the wood monotony.
Good kitchen and bath reno “porn”:
I like that they link to actual products used, even counter stools.
@BunsenBurner that is a nice link
We built our house 21 years ago and have been having spots of termites. For several years we’ve been able to spot treat small areas. H now has found we have some heavy damage on our covered master bedroom desk. He thinks we will need to tent the entire house. After tenting we will tackle getting the outside of the house painted. We are having someone come out to do a termite report this week.
Our master is carpet. Several years ago when the original carpet needed to be replaced we contemplated wood floors. The adjoining room has oak solid wood flooring but the planks are narrow and tongue an grooved. We didn’t know if we wanted to spend the money replacing the carpet with a narrow plank when it was out of style. The floors come together in a spot where two different woods would have looked funny. In the end we just replaced with carpet as it just seemed easier.
@1214mom, we have a cherry bed frame on top of mid-range oak floors, and probably mahogany dressers. It’s all fine, but then we are probably more into “eclectic” than worrying about everything matching…
There are lots of rugs on Overstock too. We’ve gotten several and most of them were Safavieh. Watch out for the color red, it doesn’t always photograph well. That’s the only color we returned.
No experience with red as it is not in the color scheme in our house, but good to know! Our color scheme is dusty cream walls (inherited from the previous owner) and cherry tone wood with blue and white accents throughout the house. Blue colored rugs we bought were all as pictured.
After converting our 25-year old tile kitchen countertops with epoxy resin, we just completed putting backsplashes around the countertops, our first time doing so. Since we chose mosaic glass tiles for backsplashes, we had to do some researching and inquiring into what tool to use to cut these glass tiles. So glad that we chose in the end a $13.97 glass tile nipper over lot more expensive choices or a rental. I had a very cheap glass scorer lying around in my garage, so the job of cutting the glasses simply involved scoring then nipping. Of course this method doesn’t do as clean a job as a wet saw but the rough cuts will be covered up when caulking, so makes no difference whatsoever. We used a total of 10 mosaic sheets at $14.99 each. Very pleased with the outcome.
We have natural oak hardwood floors, but they are shiny. I prefer matte. I am NOT ready to spend the bucks to refinish, and they look good enough as they are. Would it be weird to do my bedroom with matte, if the hallway leading into it is shiny? I have more or less picked a carpet color if we go with carpet (I gather it’s the m9nth Karastan carpets are on sale), but I am leaning more towards hardwood.
“Would it be weird to do my bedroom with matte, if the hallway leading into it is shiny?”
I don’t think anyone but you would notice.
If the stain is matched and the planks are the same, it will not be very noticeable. Especially if this is a room separated by a door.
Almost done painting the toilet room!! Good god, who was the brilliant mind who painted it the color of poop?! Now it is cream colored. Just like I wanted it. 
can’t wait to pick up our mirrors tomorrow.
I am so glad my first “big” home project was actually pretty small. I have learned a lot. It always costs more and takes more time than you anticipate…
We contracted with one person (highly recommended) for the install, but he turfed us to his designer to order cabinets and granite. She has been wonderful. BUT, when we picked out the granite from someplace she recommended (a remnant, so it was cheaper than a full slab), they assured me that the one big dark mark I didn’t like could be where they did the cutout for my sink, so it wouldn’t be a problem. Well, they delivered the granite yesterday, 90 minutes later than the stated time they would be here, and the big black mark was bright and visible. The granite place was closed, the designer (actually, her assistant) was trying to reach a manager by phone to figure out what to do, and the installer said if he left, I would need to pay him to come back. AAACCCKKK! So I let him install the hardware and connect the plumbing.
Today, the granite company offered me $75 off my price. I informed the designer that I really wanted it replaced. They did agree to replace it, and the designer offered to pay for half of the cost of the installer coming back. I guess I could have held out and tried to get them to pay for everything, but I’m relatively Ok paying for the guy to come back.
Of course it will require more time off work to pick a new slab and to be here when they deliver it. I’m just hoping I can find another remnant that I like, and it all works out Ok the second time.
Next time I think may go with someone who is in charge of the entire thing, instead of using multiple companies. But, at least these people seemed to work relatively well together.
My SIL did a kitchen reno lately, and had a very large U-shaped island installed, with built in seating in the U hollow. The counter was supposed to be joined of 3 cut pieces and set inside the wood frame of the U, which was already there. But they cut one large U, and when they fit it in, of course it didn’t line up perfectly over that big area. There were gaps between the counter and the frame on one side, and it was too low on another. It had just been installed right before Christmas and I don’t know how they can fix it. I can imagine all the crumbs that are accumulating in those gaps.
I would be upset with the installer, but the design was asking for trouble too. Always have your counter overhang and it can hide a small gap!
Wow. Somehow we escaped install troubles with our Cambria countertops! We did have to hustle and add some thin plywood in one spot because the previous owners did not - the counterop gently sloped away from the window. The countertop guy brought it to our attention… we did not even notice it when we bought the house and used the kitchen for a while, but it became obvious when the ugly limestone got torn away. As usual, Mr. did not trust the guys and got the leveling going himself. Now that countertop is levellevel.
No countertop horror stories until my bath one is installed April 3rd. They came to template a few days ago. I thought this was some advanced thing with a laser, like laying field drain tile. Nope, tape measure. Hope that’s all it requires. I don’t remember from the 2007 re-do of a previous kitchen.
Shower glass getting installed next week. Different window guy comes in a few weeks (supposed to have been installed in December, sigh) and I am envisioning his guys breaking the shower glass, which is very close.
Good luck! Our templater was very high tech, complete with that laser contraption and autoCAD. He had to come back for backsplash measurements after the main install because it required precise matching with the bottom of the skywall window. Yikes.
What would y’all recommend as countertops in a kitchen in a house with a bit of industrial feel; are poured concrete still an option or are they out? This is for a vacation rental and we want bomb proof.
I would use some inexpensive granite. IMO, concrete is not that robust and needs a looong time to cure. So if you plan on pouring them in place, plan on not using the kitchen for at least 2-3 weeks after pouring. It needs time to cure.
Tenants will abuse the heck out of it, so expect chips and cracks, maybe even chunks broken out along the edges. Plus, concrete needs to be sealed so it’s not a zero-maintenance surface.
Honestly, the most “bomb proof” is probably Formica or equivalent. And if the tenants do mess it up, it’s the cheapest to replace. It comes in a variety of concrete/metal-ish colors if you want an industrial look.