Have you seen some of the colors on houses with old vinyl siding? Some are really horrid.
It’s probably cheaper to paint it then replace it.
Have you seen some of the colors on houses with old vinyl siding? Some are really horrid.
It’s probably cheaper to paint it then replace it.
Not sure how we got onto painting vinyl siding… I have clapboards that are painted blue, eventually they will get removed and replaced with vinyl siding.
Went appliance-shopping over the weekend… DW has decided to go with Jenn-Air appliances, the fridge is pretty much the same as the KitchenAid linked to a while back (they are made by the same company), except Jenn-Air has a better warranty so it is a little pricier.
Probably won’t get the Jenn-Air wine fridge though, $2K just for something that holds a dozen bottles of wine seems excessive.
Dang, appliances are expensive.
You can definitely do better than $2k for a wine fridge. As long as you don’t want a panel on the front, there are tons of options available. We went through that exercise when we needed to fill a space in the cabinetry… we found some that were not outrageous, but in the end, we opted out for a warming drawer and some dish drawers.
Just happened to read the top post (on my page). I’ve never had an issue painting baseboard with a carpeted floor… I I use a scrap piece of laminate to push down the carpet… and mask a drop cloth at the edges. Of course I’m a VERY slow trim painter… very picky… and could never make a living at my pace 
Masking tape (the paper kind) works great, but… If the carpet is very plush, it makes it hard to reach the bottom of the baseboard with the specific type of a roller that performs according to my stringent standards of no brush marks.
I too will never make a living out of painting objects.
@BunsenBurner
Can you share your favorite roller cover that doesn’t leave brush marks??
I’ve always had a problem with rolled paint on new drywall. The roller always leaves a very minimal bumpy orange peel type texture that I don’t like. The texture isn’t brush marks, more like minimal bumps. Of course we could spray everything but I learned the hard way that touch ups (especially the kind where the electrician cuts a hole after painting is done) never look perfect on sprayed areas.
Just a random thought. Our water closet is now framed in. I need to make a decision ASAP about whether the left hinged door will open out toward the main part of the bathroom or “in” to the toilet room.
If it opens out and is left open, it will block the window/light. The WC is really the only place for a waste basket and this also weighs into the decision.
I’m open to other thoughts!
I always thought a little texture was desirable as it will hide any defects in the wall, and it’s invisible from more than a foot away.
I think it is almost impossible to avoid unless you spray, if you use a regular roller with a nap. Even with a foam roller a lot will depend on the paint thickness, room temperature, humidity, dryness of the surface, etc. You need to have the paint dry as slow as possible so it has longer to level, and if you go over it even after a few seconds, you will get a texture.
I’ve read that using a mohair roller will give you a smoother surface than a regular roller but I’ve never tried one.
Install a pocket door, although at this point it might require a small bit of re-framing.
If you can do pocket door, install one. Although with pocket door it will remain open more often than you would like. Also it is not as sound proof as you would like because there’s al ways a gap at the bottom.
Inswing door needs to be checked carefully. Mark the floor where the end of the toilet is going to be. Check if door will open without hitting toilet. If yes…can you comfortably open door, step in and close the door without squeezing yourself against the toilet, which kind of has a yuck factor and means the door will just be left in the open position all the time.
If both those tests fail, it is going to have to be an outswing door and it will probably remain closed more often than the other two choices anyway
CB, I have to look those rollers up. I get them T the local Mallory (Benjamin Moore) paint store. They work reasonably well for wood trim, but I suspect that drywall can be different. I agree with NRE - a tiny bit of texture helps to hide a lot of defects. Even the so called “level 5” finish is very lightly textured because the mud is rolled with a roller than painted over.
Pocket door if you can still frame it or a barn door if it’s too late. We’re going to be facing the same issue with our bathroom project and are going for the barn door.
The barn door has to be mounted slightly away from the wall on the upper rolling hardware. When it is closed, it provides privacy but does not provide soundproofing. It doesn’t fit flush against the wall, so it won’t provide a ‘seal’ of the room. So sounds and smells are pretty wide open…depends on your reasons for shutting the door 
I would never put a barn door on a powder room. I also don’t like the fact that you generally can’t put pictures or furniture on the wall where it slides open.
I suspect that barn doors will be the avocado green appliances of this era. I have seen so many of them in new construction I got a barn door fatigue. 
I blame HGTV.
WC update. We are going with the door swinging into the room. We experimented, stepped and mock-sat. We can have the door open in, have a waste basket, and reach our destination. (Thanks all for the descriptions. They were great).
We chose not to do a barn door because we have purchased the Loft Mirror from Ballard Designs for that wall.
In the last few days, we have purchased and discarded a bathtub — and purchased a new one with better depth. I’ve found pipes where we planned a niche and the contractor then moved the pipes.
They are planning to drywall on Thursday!
Today our Kitchen Aid French Door refrigerator died (not yet 4years old). It’s probably the compressor. While it appears Kitchen Aid will cover the cost of the compressor, it looks like they won’t cover labor. We are not inclined to pay for the repair, when we have paid for a replacement — similar model, counter depth to be installed (hopefully) next month. If we were to repair and then resell I don’t know if we would get our money back. I may be wrong here so I should call on the warranty question tomorrow to verify.
Sounds like that new refrigerator needs to get delivered pretty quickly to your garage or living room so you can use it. They will take your old frig away if you want them too.
Any use/desire for a 2nd fridge in the garage or basement? I have one and it is very handy to have.
If so it might be worth getting it fixed.
Luckily we have 2 other fridges (basement and garage). Make that 3! I just put the dorm fridge in the kitchen.
More news later.