<p>Our house was built in 1992. The original owners (we’ve lived here for six years) upgraded to very nice cherry cabinets during the build. Over the years, small worn spots have developed around the pulls. I clean them occasionally with wood soap and I use furniture polish on them 3-4 times a year. I don’t know if I’m doing the right thing or not, but the cabinets are in great shape except for the small worn spots. I plan to replace the pulls on the cabinets soon and thought I would try and repair the spots during the switch. Any suggestions on how to cover these areas? Thanks!</p>
<p>When you remove the pulls, you could try using a product like Restorz-It on the worn areas. I have not used this product personally, but it seems like it might be worth a try in your situation. I would try it on one cabinet and see how it works. Obviously, you could completely strip the cabinets and refinish them, but I gather that is beyond what you would prefer to attempt in this case.</p>
<p>Thanks for the suggestion, pafather. I am not familiar with Restorz-It, but I’m willing to give it a shot.</p>
<p>I have used “Restore-A-Finish” in similar situations with excellent results. Sounds like it is just another brand of the product pafather mentions.</p>
<p>My use was not on my cherry cabinets, but the product came in a few different colors (eg, Golden Oak…), so I imagine you can find a reasonable match and go from there.</p>
<p>Do you happen to know if the original owner installed the cabinets with a simple laquer, a satin finish, or if the cabinets were stained before this finish was applied? The golden oak color mentioned in the previous post is, in my experience, a shade of stain that is applied to wood before a laquer or satin finish is applied over it. In your case, you might just need a clear finish restorant if it’s merely the outer coat of finish that’s been removed and the cherry was not stained.</p>
<p>Is there a significant difference in color between the non-worn wood and the worn spots, or is or more a case of a comparable lack of sheen?</p>
<p>However, these questions just apply mostly to the kind of product you would need to buy. I agree with previous posters that a simple spot finish rejuvenator would probably be your best bet.</p>
<p>Success will depend on the clearcloat, be it laquer or polyurethane, or a proprietary factory finish. For the wood to re-absorb stain, the clear coat needs be removed, the area touched up, and preferably recoated.</p>
<p>Not a real easy fix, and the results for the first timer can range from horrendous, maginal, to acceptable. Having it done professionally is costly.</p>
<p>The products mentioned MAY be similar to Olde English Scratch color, which is no more than a colored polish, and must be redone periodically. These products work ok, if the area is a few scratches, not an area here the finish and clear coat has been rubbed/abraded away from use.</p>
<p>A good paint store catering to the trade will normally have an assortment of colored touch up sticks. Look for those with the felt tip, similar to a majic marker… they are available in a range of stain hues. The wax putty sticks are not for this application.</p>
<p>Is the finish actually gone or is the area discolored from use or hand oils?</p>
<p>Depending on the finish, a variety of serious solvents will dissolve the grime without harming the finish; the trick is knowing which one. Laquer thinner dissolves lacquer, denatured alcohol attacks water based/latex finishes. Paint thinner/mineral spirits should make quick work of hand oils, fingerprints.
If you go this route, do a test patch cleaning in a small area on the BACK side of a lower cabinet door. The door below a sink tends to see the most abuse over time.</p>
<p>Another option is to choose new hardware with a backing plate that will cover the offending area if the choices are compatible with the cabinet style.</p>
<p>Minwax makes a product called antique restorer, which I’ve used in some furniture applications.</p>
<p>For reference people, when you buy new cabinets, make sure you order a touch up kit or two. If you’re buying high-end carcasses, make them throw in four. They’re making plenty of money on your purchase, and it will solve these issues as they arise. The kit provides the same materials/finishes factory reps use to make on-site touch-ups.</p>