<p>H and I are in the process of refinishing our kitchen cabinets. Some of the drawers and doors are ready for the polyurethane finish. I have been debating between a semi-gloss and satin finish. For those of you who have taken on this type of project, what would you suggest? Thanks…</p>
<p>The only thing that I would say is that sometimes it is easier to clean things that have a higher level of gloss. I’ve never refinished any cabinets, but I know that with paint it’s really hard to clean something with a flat finish over a semi-gloss.</p>
<p>Deb922 makes a good point. However, without seeing the relative shininess of the two finishes…I wonder if the satin finish would give a more professional look. It seems that most high-end wood cabinets have a fairly subtle sheen. A higher gloss is also likely to highlight any imperfections. Good luck with your project.</p>
<p>I happen to have a painter here this morning and he says satin. Higher gloss is harder to work with (is more likely to show any and all of your errors) and will also show wear faster. He also says that in general satin is a higher quality product. </p>
<p>Last bit of advice from him - don’t go cheap on the paint - buy the highest quality you can find as the difference in price is not enough to make a real difference when you consider the value of your labor.</p>
<p>The differences between sheen levels of satin and semi-gloss polys are subtle. There will be little cleanability differences between the two if you use a high end product. My personal preference is satin. Higher sheens show more defects, and are prone to show abrasion and wear paterns.</p>
<p>Don’t skimp, and buy el-cheapo brand.</p>
<p>The trick to a good finish is prep right, and start clean, and dust free. Vacuum all surfaces, tack rag (if compatible with finish; check, as not all are). Personally, I’d apply a number of coats, 3 at minimum. I’ve gone up to 6 depending on surface and amount of use.</p>
<p>I redid all in house woodwork 20 plus years ago, and used 5 coats of a top of the line eggshell varnish. It’s tedious, but ours look as good now as the week they were finished.</p>
<p>Good luck.</p>
<p>My cabinets were redone in 1999, semi-gloss. They still look brand new.</p>
<p>I guess I didn’t mention that we stripped, sanded, and restained the cabinets. So there is no paint involved. I just want to put the poly finish over the stain. The cabinets are in really good shape for their age. That is why we decided to refinish instead of replace. We have done some refinishing in the past, and have used four or more coats. I am just unsure if I want the semi or satin finish. Does anyone know what would be the result of putting a couple coats of satin over the semi if I thought the semi was too shiny?</p>
<p>gloss would show more fingerprints :p</p>
<p>I agree that if you want a more professional look, go with the satin. If you are going to “try” one first, I’d try the satin first and then you can go over it with the gloss if you aren’t happy. I wouldn’t do it the other way around.</p>
<p>Omigosh - I can’t believe you did all that work! Kudos to you! To me, glossy would be too much shine on kitchen cabinets. I’d choose satin.</p>
<p>The shinier the finish, the harder it is to make it look right. A satin finish will be easier to do well.</p>
<p>If your finish is water-based, do NOT use a tack rag. Most tack rags contain varnish, which will not be compatible with your finish.</p>
<p>Dust is the enemy of glossy finishes. </p>
<p>Have you considered something less high-tech? I did two maple beds with multiple coats of clear Watco and a half-dozen coats of Watco finishing wax. They have a really nice, deep satin sheen – and the finish is foolproof. Since it doesn’t form a film, it won’t trap dust. In fact, a little dust in the Watco can make a smoother finish. I apply a coat of Watco, let it sit for a half-hour, add some more and then wet-sand with 220 grit. Don’t add water, use the Watco as the wetting agent. I repeat this with 320 grit. The last coats (as many as you want, but at least one more) are applied with a cotton rag. Then, use the Watco liquid wax just following the instructions on the can. Since the finish isn’t film-forming, if it gets damaged or tired-looking after a few years, clean off the wax, and then add another coat or three of Watco and wax and it will perk right up. The only disadvantage to an oil-and-wax finish is that it isn’t as waterproof as lacquer or poly, so I wouldn’t do it in an environment with a lot of water, like a vanity top.</p>
<p>It’s probably too late, but have you considered a wax/oil finish? Much easier to spot repair.</p>
<p>I would use a rub in finish like Watco as well, plus since it is rub in, very easy to touch up.
My H, likes Verathane for some reason- I don’t it is alot of work.
Here is more on Watco.
[Oil</a> Finishes](<a href=“http://www.wwch.org/Technique/Finishes/OilFin.htm]Oil”>Oil Finishes)
this is what we use locally
[DALY’S</a> : Paint and Decorating / Wood Finishes](<a href=“http://www.dalyspaint.com/catalog_seafin.html]DALY’S”>http://www.dalyspaint.com/catalog_seafin.html)</p>
<p>Thank you everyone! I think I will experiment. I have some similar old doors laying around. I think I will take them and try a few of your suggestions.</p>
<p>Painter came wandering by after lunch and had these specific suggestions:</p>
<p>First choice on product - Minwax Fastdrying Poly</p>
<p>[Minwax®</a> Fast-Drying Polyurethane - Oil-Based Clear Protective Finishes - Minwax.com](<a href=“http://www.minwax.com/products/oil_based_clear_protective_finishes/fast_drying_polyurethane.cfm]Minwax®”>http://www.minwax.com/products/oil_based_clear_protective_finishes/fast_drying_polyurethane.cfm)</p>
<p>He says to thin it with just a splash of thinner 1/16 - so maybe 3/4 of an inch in a quart.</p>
<p>Second choice - and a distant second - if you prefer water based product - would be Varathane Diamond Water-Based Polyurethane.</p>
<p>[url=<a href=“http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=70]RustOleum.com[/url”>http://www.rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=70]RustOleum.com[/url</a>]</p>
<p>Either way he emphasized a satin finish as way easier for a homeowner to get right.</p>
<p>Hope this helps</p>
<p>I love MinWax wipe on poly. I find it easier to apply consistent pressure and there are no problems with brush marks. It comes in gloss/semi-gloss/satin. Makes a durable, beautiful finish.</p>