<p>So…successful return from my peruvian adventure. Kids alive, cat alive, plants parched but alive, house unscathed…Launchee demonstrated that college has matured him and seemed to take care of household perfectly. They lived off of frozen food, mainly, but seemed to be in good spirits and reported that they never even bickered once we parents were out of the house. Funny, I told them, “your father and I never bickered once we were away from you either!” Moral…there comes a time where dividing the family leads to family harmony.</p>
<p>So H worked like a dog with the world bank team…we had an early breakfast together and then off they went to look at roads and landfill and damns…I was left to do whatever I wanted and however I wanted. In 20 years I have never had a vacation to do what I and only I wanted to do. Priceless! In the evening, I would have lovely dinner and evening with H. In many ways, being apart during the day was perfect because my husband is a liability if hiking or outdoors are involved for pleasure…he gets enough of it at work so would choose a spa day with massage over a horseback ride to see ruins…I hiked, rode, wandered throughout cuzco area alone…perfectly happy.</p>
<p>The art/architecture in Cuzco and around was a daily, hourly surprise. The entrance into the cathedral delivers a sucker punch…literally you hear the gasps as people walk in and then the awe becomes a semi religious experience as you see the art and artisanry of mestizo painters and sculptors and metalworkers…so weird…the cuzco and lima indian-american painters were clearly taught by different European masters so some faces look flemish, others italian, then paintings that look like they came from Toledo or Madrid yet weird little Amerindian details like Christ’s last supper consisting of Papaya and Cuy (guinea pig)…or madonnas that have amerindian eyes, etc. Like teh Inca temples, the churches have lots and lots of niche’s that instead of dead Inca mummies have christ on the cross or a madonna. In the cathedral alone there must have been at least 20-25 gory versions of Christ on or recently removed from the cross. </p>
<p>The inca ruins and stones are everywhere and you can’t get over the size and the engineering perfection of the walls without mortar and they still form the basis of many buildings in the city. I had dinner in a cheap pizzeria with an oven built into an inca wall.</p>
<p>Machu Picchu was all that it was promised to be…mystical and beautiful. However it was the unknown and unheralded places that I enjoyed the most. A little church to the south of the city…just a village church…had gorgeous frescos and statuettes and a Morillo painting and more gold and silver work than I can express…It had a king’s ransom in gold sitting on the heads of the blessed family but no security system I could see. The detail work was exquisite but (to someone from a protestant background) almost profane it was so ornate and glittery. It was just so beautiful and then, our little tour group of 5, was treated to a warm up for a wedding with the 17th century organs blasting from above throughout the church.</p>
<p>Food…wow! quinoa and lots of highland tubors and I finally tried alpaca (a disappointment, lamb or goat is far tastier). I didnt eat guinea pig again since we have had it a number of times in Ecuador. The farm raised trout was great and in Lima the seafood was beyond description. Lots of fusion Andean/European stuff that was generally great with the occasional specatacular failure. </p>
<p>I confess that I was starving on one of my day trips and compromised on hygiene to eat street food…I think that is where I picked up Inca revenge and it is not clear which and how many little infections/parasites are now at home inside me. Smarty…I feel your pain…the doctor finds it a challenge and, I think, was disappointed not to be able to link it to the German problem or identify it as cholera at the least. Luckily I had no real symptoms until I arrived back and am coping with the nasty meds now.</p>
<p>so good to be back…please share your vacation experiences too…</p>