Backpacking through Western Europe - Advice/Tips/Ideas?

<p>Hello! I recently graduated from college and will be travelling through Western Europe for two months. </p>

<p>I will be going solo for the majority of the trip. I am female. </p>

<p>I will be going to:
Spain (Madrid then Barcelona)
France (I’m only interested in Paris although I’m open to suggestions!)
Italy (so many to choose from! Definitely Rome/Vatican, Florence)
Austria (Vienna)
Germany (Munich and Berlin)
Amsterdam
England (London (have a friend here), Bath? Manchester?)
Scotland (Edinburgh)
Ireland (Dublin)</p>

<p>Basically, I was wondering if any parents had any tips or ideas of places I needed to see? Or any travel/safety tips will be also highly appreciated! I’m such a procrastinator and spontaneous and have only planned Spain for the most part. I’m going on another vacation next week and after, will dedicate my time to planning since I’ll have more free time. I love the idea of winging it but know that that is not ideal for trips like these! :wink: I know there are many members of CC who are well traveled so I figured I’d ask. Travelling from place to place takes some planning which I’m doing now, slowly but surely. </p>

<p>I am the first of my family to go to Europe so don’t have much knowledge of where to go! I’m interested in everything, so that makes it harder to narrow down. Thinking of museums, national landmarks, beaches (not a huge beach person though) etc. </p>

<p>I’m most likely going to buy EuroRail pass for the 2 months, even though the UK doesn’t use it. I’m also going to stay in hostels and have spent hours browsing hostel websites, planning my stay in each country. I don’t plan on taking much - literally a backpack. I will be flying into Madrid and leaving back to NY airport from Dublin (late March- late May). Thanks! </p>

<p>We frequently stay in hostels. We stayed in one in Vienna last year that I particularly liked. I’ll try to dredge up the name. (H says it was Ruthensteiner.)</p>

<p>I would go to Bath over Manchester, definitely. We stayed in a nice hostel there, too. Oxford is a great place to visit. I would try to make the westward loop from London through Winchester Cathedral, Salisbury Cathedral, Stonehenge, Bath, and Oxford (not necessarily in that order) if you can manage the transportation.</p>

<p>All I have to offer is this: Our son was robbed in Barcelona. Never, ever put your things down for a minute. They squirted ketchup on him and distracted him, then grabbed the small backpack – you know, the one with the cash, passport, debit card, Europass, camera and memory card, and journal. </p>

<p>He had purchased the Europass insurance, so that was helpful, and he also had Xeroxes of his passport in his other backpack. That made getting a replacement relatively easy.</p>

<p>My suggestion is to keep the really important stuff in a flat pouch-y thing under your clothes.</p>

<p>Other than that, he had a wonderful time. Met up with some friends in different cities and really enjoyed himself.</p>

<p>Check point-to-point train fares before you buy a pass. There is a lot about railing through Europe on RickSteves.com. The passes aren’t as good a deal as you might think.
Lonely Planet used to have forums geared towards younger travelers. </p>

<p>What fun!</p>

<p>So jealous! You’re going to have a wonderful time! One thing I like to do in a new city is take the hop on - hop off bus. It brings you past all the “important” sites and gives you a real sense of geography. Usually the tickets are good for 24 hours and you can also buy extended ones. To my eye, it looks like one of the companies owns franchises in different cities; I wonder if you could purchase something like a “season pass” for multiple cities if you contacted them?</p>

<p>Here’s my take on your itinerary:</p>

<p>Spain (Madrid then Barcelona): I’ve been to both. Loved Barcelona, not so crazy about Madrid, but I have a cousin who did (at least) a year abroad there and she thinks I’m wrong. Grenada and Toledo are nice day trips from Madrid. In Barcelona, the Ramblas is fun - go to the Boqueria and walk around the market, but what I really liked was the medieval quarter just off the Ramblas. Even with tourists wandering around, you can easily imagine it a thousand years ago. One side trip I didn’t do, but wished I had, was to Montserrat, where there is an abbey on the mountain. Apparently the choir is amazing. I liked the Miro museum, but I’m a huge fan of Miro. I had heard about pickpockets being a problem in Spain but did not personally have any problems. Be careful, though!</p>

<p>France (I’m only interested in Paris although I’m open to suggestions!): Paris is nice, but if you only go there, you’re missing much of the French experience. Moi, j’adore Perigord/Dordogne! This is a little tricky to do without a car, but I think seeing the prehistoric caves like Lascaux would be well worth it. (Frankly, Lascaux is a fake and in my opinion not worth it, but if you can see Font de Gaume and Combarelles in Les Eyzies de Tayac, that’s a trip worth taking. Peche Merle is also nice.) There are trains, but I’m not sure about them, since I rented a car. Maybe visit somewhere like Nice?</p>

<p>Closer to Paris, you of course will want to visit Versailles. Go early in the day before the tour busses arrive, and be sure to trek out to the little village, Hameau de Marie Antoinette, that M.A. had built to pretend she was a peasant. It’s also possible to visit the gardens at Giverny where Monet painted his water lilies.</p>

<p>Italy (so many to choose from! Definitely Rome/Vatican, Florence): Definitely yes, to both. I’d add Venice to your itinerary. A magical city, and one where I hope to return for more than a day trip in the future. Pickpockets and ripoff artists are rampant in Italy so redouble the precautions you’re already taking. I was robbed on a city bus in Turin, and several people I was travelling with were as well in Florence. My daughter was robbed - by the owner of the hostel - in Rome. (We think it was the M&J hostel near the main train station in Rome; apologies to M&J if we remember incorrectly.)</p>

<p>Austria (Vienna): Vienna is nice! If you’re not a huge fan of opera, you can sit outside the opera house and they broadcast the program for free for passersby who sit in the chairs provided. Must do Mozart’s house. If you like classical music, you can spend a wonderful few hours at the Museum of Music. Vienna also has bicycles you can rent by the hour, which is a fun way to see the city. The hop on hop off bus will take you out to the Schonbrunn Palace, which also has the zoo there.</p>

<p>Vienna is a great city, to be sure, but if you’re headed there for an alpine experience, you’re going to be disappointed. Take the train over to Innsbruck. THOSE are Alps! And there’s the opportunity to take a variety of trains and trams up the Karwendel Alpine Park, where you can sit on top of a mountain and appreciate the amazing view with very little effort on your part. My friend who lived in Vienna for several years calls Innsbruck a “provincial town,” but that’s exactly why I like it. If you’re a Sound of Music fan at all, break up your trip from Vienna in Salzburg and go on one of the Sound of Music bus tours - kitschy but a fun couple of hours. Mozart’s birth house is also here.</p>

<p>Germany (Munich and Berlin): I’ve not been to Berlin but I’m told it has a good music scene. I haven’t been to Munich for a looooong time, but my most memorable visit was to the Dachau concentration camp located an easy bus ride outside town. A concentration camp is decidedly NOT a tourist destination, but I think it’s an important stop for any human, regardless of your religious beliefs. It will be meaningful, and probably depressing; you shouldn’t schedule a party for that evening. But I think you should do it.</p>

<p>Amsterdam: Anne Frank House. No doubt you read the book in school, and seeing the house makes it come alive. When I was in college, we went to Amsterdam for the hash bars; I’m sure there’s still a thriving industry. The “red light” district appeals to some. I liked the Netherlands; it’s a “comfortable” culture for me.</p>

<p>England (London (have a friend here), Bath? Manchester?): Hurrah! If you’ve been travelling alone all this time, you’ll be delighted to see your friend!! I love London and there are lots of off-the-beaten path things to do here - Denis Seavers House is just one. Make reservations in advance for the Key Ceremony at the Tower of :London. This is the ceremony where they lock up the tower for the night, and they’ve done it for hundred of years (they skipped a year during bombing in WWII). It’s free but you need advance tickets. Oxford is a fun day trip (you can see where they filmed the Harry Potter Great Hall scenes on a tour of Christ Church), and the "real Downton Abbey is nearby. If you decide to go to Stonehenge, know that they don’t let you get right up to the stones any more.</p>

<p>Scotland (Edinburgh): Great choice! You can go to the café where JK Rowling wrote much of HP1. Visit the ladies room; there are wonderful inscriptions on the walls. Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle. Have you read any of the Alexander McCall books located in Edinburgh? There are day tour coaches that take you to the highlands (well, part of them) and to whiskey distilleries; my D (the one from Rome) got some great photos from that (after recovering from visiting the distillery at 9 AM).</p>

<p>Ireland (Dublin): Temple Bar area, Guinness factory tour. Any chance you can get out into the countryside?</p>

<p>That’s more than you expected, I’m sure! Please keep us updated after you return. And speaking as a mom, PLEASE take all those security warnings seriously. Make a copy of your important documents and leave them with someone at home. Carry only one credit card and keep the other one hidden in a separate place. Yes, those security belts are dorky but there’s a reason they’re still around. Pickpockets are smarter than you think. Don’t use your cell phone on the platform of the train station or subway. Don’t put your bag on the back of your chair or the floor under the table. Don’t assume your hostel is safe (this one really hurts). Sometimes it’s worth spending money, like for a taxi back at night.</p>

<p>As a woman travelling alone, as a young person travelling alone…a little paranoia can go a long way. There are nasty people out there whose livelihood depends on you being casual about enjoying the trip of a lifetime. Make sure it’s you, and not them, who enjoys your trip. /mom</p>

<p>Have a wonderful trip - it will become a lifetime memory for you! </p>

You will have a blast. I went backpacking for a month with a friend right after undergrad. Best decision ever. I hit London, Paris, Pisa, Rome, Interlaken, Lauterbrunnen, Bern, Vienna, Prague, Krakow, Berlin, Amsterdam, and Brussels (then back to Paris and London). Flew in/out of London.

I think this type of planning might work for you: On my trip, we would book the hostel in our next city from the city we were currently in. That way, it allowed us flexibility of travel dates and we didn’t have to plan the whole thing ahead of time. BUT, we knew where we were going when we got to our new city vs. wandering around looking for somewhere to stay. Sometimes places are sold out, and IMO it is a good feeling to know where you are going when you get to a new place. You drop your stuff off at the hostel, talk with the people at the desk who will give you a map and answer your questions… and off you go! We did have a list of places we wanted to go and generally knew what cities we were going to.

Some hostels are party hostels and some are quiet. You should be able to tell from tripadvisor and/or sites like hostelbookers and hostelworld. Some hostels might have… significant drug use. We did run into some people that were partying their way around Europe. Seemed like to me you could party for cheaper at home, but different people have different philosophies.

You will be able to meet people in the hostels and probably find people to go on adventures with if that is what you want.

Get a good backpack. Go to a store and make sure you have one that fits correctly.

How will you get to London from continental Europe? You can fly. You can also take the train to/from Paris or Amsterdam. Trains work really well and drop you in the middle of the cities.

Going from Paris to Rome, you will probably change trains in Milan. I recommend you stop in Pisa on the way from Milan to Rome. You can see everything you would want to see there in a few hours. Then hop back on the train and continue to Rome.

While in Rome, you might want to look into going down to Pompeii and Herculaneum. Spend a night or two in Naples.

In Paris you should go to Versailles (short train ride).

You should research Prague some. It is a cheaper (compared to London, Madrid, etc) city and popular with backpackers and right on the way from Vienna to Berlin.

Vienna: you can get to Bratislava (Slovakia) on a day trip (or longer, obviously). Consider if you would want to see that city as well. Check out the Schoenbrunn palace.

Munich: get to Neuschwanstein castle (the inspiration for Disney’s Cinderella castle)

I know you said you are not big on beaches… Do you like the mountains at all? Would you want some time away from the big cities? If you do, I cannot recommend highly enough, the city of Interlaken in the swiss alps. You can also go a little further and stay in Lauterbrunnen (supposedly the inspiration for LOTR’s Rivendell) or Grindelwald. This was our longest stay on our trip, and it was amazing. Might still be super snowy when you would be there though (which brings different possibilities for activities).

Lonely Planet book guide is the book D loves

Easter is April 5th. In many European countries the week prior (Holy Week) as well as Easter Monday can be difficult for travelers. Some things shut down entirely, other places are full of holidaying families that week or the week following Easter.

See if your bank or credit union will provide you with a chip and PIN debit and/or credit card. You’ll be able to use train station/metro/tube ticket machines, pay easily in stores, use public bikes. A number of places in Amsterdam wouldn’t accept anything but.
We use our non-chip cards all over Europe, but not having to deal with explaining the swipe is golden. If possible, have money in 2 different banks/CUs and have 2 separate cards. Giving mom or dad access to your accounts lets them transfer money in if there’s an emergency.

We used a big Europe planning map to figure out our 4 week trip last fall. It’s easy to forget where one city is in relation to another and end up backtracking.

Trip insurance! Nothing worse than falling on cobblestones and breaking an ankle or wrist, watching your camera float out to see, lose a tooth in a rafting accident (all happened to my SIL).

My son wants to do this next summer with his friend who is from England. It would be two 18-year old boys traveling by Euro-Rail (or whatever it’s called). Is it really safe? I’m a little worried, needless to say!

One of my sons did a three month backpacking trip with even less planning. He started off with trying to work - http://www.workaway.info/ and I think this is an awesome program. He was able to work at a horse farm in Germany for about 2 weeks, but because he’s a guy and his skills were either computer related or outdoor manual and because he started off in the winter, he had a hard time lining things up. He did some hostels, but ended up couch surfing - http://thesavvybackpacker.com/couchsurfing-advice/ This worked out really well for him and he met a lot of nice people. I was one worried Mom, but it worked out for him. He had a blast. We did get him trip insurance and made sure it covered extraction.

The other thing is a good back pack. He got this one and it looks as good as new today, three years later.: I think this is an updated version of his pack: http://www.ospreypacks.com/en/group/backpacking/farpoint_series What made it great was the detachable day pack.

Back in the dark ages, when you could literally travel on $5.00 a day,I did this with my friend from college. Travelling by train is great however you do need to plan an itinerary that makes sense so that you are not backtracking all the time. Are you flying into Madrid and home from London? Once you begin the Eurailpass the clock starts ticking down and so you don’t want to take time out of the 60 days in the middle to travel to the UK. Younger d’s friend did a similar trip about 2 years ago and she flew to Paris, spent time there for a week and then began the train travel which is similar to what I had done, although I began in London and travelled to Paris so did not start using my pass until close to 3 weeks into my trip. D’s friend did backtrack a lot as she didn’t have the trip planned out in advance but she was also planning to travel for 4 months so had more time.
Also try to plan in advance free nights or free days in museums that you want to see. One of the positives of London is that the museums for the most part are free and that is helpful because London is expensive. Invest in a good guidebook such as Lonely Planet. Do a lot of research online in advance so you will be aware of possible festivals/concerts you might want to see.
Plan to use markets in places so that you can pick up bread, cheese, fruit and so on. Many hostels or small hotels will include breakfast but not as universal as it used to be.
Always be aware of your surroundings, where you are walking and who is walking around you. There are cities such as Barcelona and Rome in which pickpocketing is rampant. I was just in Paris and there are certain scams in which tourists are targeted around Notre Dame and the Arc de Triomphe where people will distract you by getting you to listen to their pitch to sign a petition so just be firm to say no right away or that you don’t speak English. Staring people down helps too.

Great advice! Sounds like they will need to do a lot of research/planning before going. My son’s friend is a bit of a ding-dong (sorry!), so I do worry about the two of them figuring out basic things like where to get food/water, etc. But they will be 18, so maybe I’m not giving them enough credit. The friend is from London, so he has experience with how things work in Europe generally, so that should help, and my son has been to Europe before as a tourist. So they are not totally in the dark…but it’s still nerve-wracking! Thanks for the tips. :slight_smile:

The initial itinerary is a list of extremely touristy city followed by extremely touristy city. I really would highly recommend taking a break from pounding the pavements to see some of the countryside. Sometimes you won’t even need to leave the cities. For example, try Richmond Park in London (it’s near Wimbledon. Green line of the tube). There are wild red deer there (and they are not that wild. You can walk right up to them).

There is something called a Rack Trap (Google it), if you are a girl, check it out, fits credit cards, ID & a bit of cash & tucks in your bra. I used it on travel & it was great not to have to to carry anything.

I just want to chime in with a few random comments.

  1. I think you are trying to take in far too many cities, even for an eight-week trip. For example, you really need four nights in Madrid or environs. The first day you will be dead tired and not see much. You ought to take day trips to Toledo and Segovia (along with Valley of the Fallen if you can get there), which leaves you with only one full day for Madrid. You might consider going to Toledo on your last night and spending the night there. It's pretty at night. You can return to Madrid the next morning to make your trip to Barcelona. Also, traveling solo can get a bit lonely. The only way to beat this is to spend enough time in one place so that you can actually meet other people. You can't do this if you only spend one or two nights in each place.
  2. Advance purchase train tickets are generally much cheaper than buying a rail pass. Also, many trains require a supplement and a seat reservation, so you don't have the ability to just hop on a train. You still have to buy a ticket if you have a rail pass, just at a discount price.
  3. The train trip from Madrid to Barcelona used to take 6.5 hours. Now it takes about three hours and costs five to 10 times as much. You might be able to save money by taking a train to Valencia, checking your bags at the station and sightseeing a bit, and then continuing on to Barcelona. All of these "fast" trains in Europe serve no purpose other than to impoverish the citizenry.
  4. From Barcelona you should fly to wherever you are going, with Rome being the obvious choice. If purchased in advance these flights can be really cheap. Be sure to calculate the cost of checking a bag or other fees. It is often worth it to pay extra to fly a full-service airline with no extra fees than it is to buy the ultra-cheap ticket on a discount carrier, where the luggage and seat-assignment fee can exceed the fare.
  5. May I suggest that you cut out Central Europe and plan to visit Berlin and Vienna a later time; and plan on just using Munich as a one-night transportation hub after taking the Venice-Munich train? I suggest you replace these cities with some time on the Middle Rhine or Mosel, i.e. Trier to Koblenz and/or Koblenz to Mainz. A lot of people rent bikes to go from Trier to Koblenz. You can do this in four days and it's a very different way of seeing Europe.
  6. If you should decide to visit the Mosel/Rhine area, the cheapest way to do it is probably to buy a cheap ticket from Munich to Amsterdam. After visiting Amsterdam take a train to Trier or Koblenz with a four- to six-hour stopover in Cologne to see the cathedral (stopovers of up to 48 hours are free in Germany). Any ticket with at least one city in Germany should be purchased at Bahn dot com, where they are very cheap. See seat61 dot com for advice. After a few days in the Middle Rhine area you can get a cheap ticket to Paris. Following Paris you can take the Chunnel train to London. These tickets are expensive, but much cheaper if purchased in advance. (Intuitively you might want to do this differently, but travel between Paris and Amsterdam is only on ultra-expensive fast trains and is to be avoided).
  7. Do be aware that costs in the United Kingdom are two to three times as high as on the Continent, so budget accordingly.

I’m going to chime in with the safety first moms. Before you go, make copies of all of your documents ( passport , driver’s license , front and back of credit cards ) Give them to your parents. Hold on to your belongings , don’t turn your back on any of your bags. Be vigilant as soon as you step off the plane.
Contact your banks to tell them where you will be traveling and when.
Look into a company called Scottvest and get something ( jacket , shirt ) to carry your wallet or passport on your body .
My husband was robbed in the airport shortly after landing in Copenhagen a couple of years ago. He was one of many on his flight that were also victimized by pickpocket type thieves. They took his carry on when he was in line to get his rental car. He is a very seasoned traveler ( born and raised in Europe ) It was quite an ordeal to get him back home.
I am not trying to scare you, but make you aware.
I have been to 6 of the places you listed , and they are all lovely !

@lje62 I put a copy of my passport, credit cards, and all tickets into Dropbox, so that I can access it from anywhere in the world. I’ve never lost a credit card or passport, but I have needed to reprint a train ticket.

I was with a British guy who was robbed in Barcelona. He had actually lectured me on security and the need not to have one’s money all in one place. After we checked out of our hotel and were headed to the train station we stopped for a minute so I could buy a newspaper and a guy came up with a map asking him for directions. While his attention was diverted someone else grabbed his daypack, which had all his money and his passport. Britain will get people a train ticket home, and I gave him $50, which he mailed back to me a couple of months later. But yes, be aware that scam artists are out there. If someone seems eager to come up and talk to you, clutch your belongings and walk away. Do not sign any petitions or talk to anyone with a petition. Be aware that thieves ride the subways and will grab your purse or bag and dart off of the train, so guard them well. Do not speak to or remain in the proximity of anyone who appears to be a Gypsy.

I use an under-clothes wallet attached to my belt to store at least half of my money and my passport and credit cards. I keep a little bit of money in my wallet and a little in my backpack. I have been lucky so far.

I think Berlin and Vienna are a must!

8 weeks is a long time.

In 3-4 days I think you can see all the big stuff in most cities (of course there is ALWAYS more to explore).

Rome:
Day 1: Vatican + Sistine Chapel + St. Angelo
Day 2: Pantheon + Colosseum + Forum
Day 3: museums + spanish steps
Day 4: see whatever else is on your list and jump on the night train to your next city

Hello all!

Sorry I’ve been so busy but I’ve been reading along! You all are amazing. I feel like hugging each and every one of you.

My younger brother is joining me for Spain, I forgot to mention - his spring break. He actually may be joining me for France & Italy & part of Vienna as well since he is planning on joining the military next May/summer instead of continuing with college. So that’s a whole different ball game! I’m super excited to go with him. (My parents are planning on going to Italy this October with my little sister but they decided to send him with me since who knows where he will be, with basic training and commitments…) We will have to be super careful with our belongings and make sure we aren’t being robbed - we both are somewhat oblivious to things and never suspect of those around us. There’s a lot for me to response to so if I don’t answer your questions/ideas, I’ll definitely do it later! I’m a bit scatterbrained right now as it’s my birthday on Friday and I’m going on a family vacation/cruise on that day so that’s all I seem to be focused on at the moment.

I do have doubts about buying a EuroRail pass, especially now that my brother is going with me for nearly half the journey. I’ve tried looking online for more details about how much each train trip costs from area to area, since I am going to big cities. This can be confusing (maybe I’m just slow) but it looks like about the same price, maybe cheaper since the Euro Rail isn’t used in the UK. I’m still searching for the answer here.

I have and have read Rick Steves’ latest Backpacking through Europe guide book and it’s been really helpful. I have credit cards (MC and Visa) and a Visa debit card. I’m kind of ignorant on this but I Googled it and I should be able to use them in Europe, as long as I call before I leave the states.

We’re staying in hostels the whole time. I’ve been looking online and most are reasonably prices, although there seem to be few in Northern Italy. Might just do a day trip.

I’m leaving from Amsterdam to London on train. I think I will need to take a break from city life and go to a small town in England with my friend/old college roommate and/or the mountains in Austria.

Earl, I’m staying 5 nights in Madrid, 4 in Barcelona. I too thought I might be taking on too much at first but once I mapped it out, I added Vienna to the list. I don’t want to spend too much time in each place since this is a once-in-a lifetime trip for me and I have a lot too see. I’ll probably spend close to 2 weeks in Italy alone as that’s one of my biggest interests and a few days in France since it’s probably my least.

Pickpockets are an ever-present problem in some Western European cities (worse than in the US). They are often well-dressed. As others have mentioned above, they work in packs by producing distractions: the ketchup squirt, the spilled drink, the stranger asking you for directions, etc. Do not open your bag or fuss with your wallet in in the middle of markets, airports, or security/bag check lines to get into museums, palaces etc… We were in France last week and many tourists sites (Louvre, Versailles) had recordings in various languages warning people waiting in the security lines about the pickpockets that cruise them. Spain, Italy and France seem to be worse on the pickpocket front than Germany for some reason (although my D had a friend whose wallet was lifted in a bar in Kreuzberg).

PS We joked that Paris really ought to be called “the city of lines.” Contra Rick Steves, the Paris Museum Pass doesn’t help unless there is a separate bag check for pass holders. Everyone has to go through security now before even getting to the ticket booth. Louvre and Orsay museums had separate metal detectors and bag checks for pass holders, and that saved a lot of time, but most places didn’t. Versailles was the most ridiculously epic line I ever stood in. I can’t even imagine what it must be like in June.