<p>Having been a landlord to a few mattress stores and having spent some time talking with managers frankly about the business … the gist is they know you will buy from the last store you visit so their job is to keep you from leaving. You can negotiate any price. If they won’t negotiate, they’ve likely hit their sales marks and are hoping for a score. They will try to frighten you into buying both a mattress and a box spring by saying the warranty is only good if you have both. Warranties on mattresses are very hard to collect on no matter what they say, so the important thing is if you can return it and what, if anything that might cost. It’s far better to select what you want than to deal with returns. They make it very hard because they have legal limits on selling returned mattresses - not that every store pays attention to these laws. </p>
<p>So, I suggest no box spring, pick a mattress that is relatively comfortable. My kid, who just moved to NYC, went to IKEA and bought one there, along with a bed frame and dresser so the delivery charge wasn’t a big deal. She chose between a mattress at $250 and one at $350. </p>
<p>It’s important to know the building logistics before ordering. </p>
<p>In some buildings it can be difficult to get a normal mattress upstairs (especially if bigger than twin). I think that’s part of the reason Ikea offers so many thin, rollable mattresses, designed to go directly on frame w/o boxspring. </p>
<p>Anyone uses a Tuft and Needle mattress? Inexpensive lightweight foam mattress, free shipping by mail, seems to be perfect for starter apartment. I am intrigued. From the posted pictures, most people seem to place it on the floor or platform bed.</p>
<p>Thank you, everyone, for your helpful suggestions.
D went to ikea today and bought a mattress, slays and frame for under $500. Friend had a car so they were able to drive everything home!</p>