Buying a used car?

<p>So one of the other young women I volunteer with is selling her car and I need a car. I have never bought a car, much less a used one.
I have asked her pretty thorough questions about it and think that it might be a good option for me. What should I do? I don’t have any older persons in my life to ask for advice on such.</p>

<p>This is the ad for the car here: [2001</a> VW GOLF gls TURBO blue MUST SELL QUICK](<a href=“http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/4056541648.html]2001”>http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/4056541648.html)
She has offered me the price of $3500. I know it has a lot of miles, but anything in my price range is going to be +150,000 miles. </p>

<p>Is it normal for a catalytic converter to be routinely replaced at 150,000 miles?</p>

<p>I took a few guesses on things about the car, but it seems like even $3500 might be a little high.</p>

<p>[Kelley</a> Blue Book](<a href=“http://www.kbb.com/volkswagen/golf/2001-volkswagen-golf/gls-hatchback-4d/?condition=good&vehicleid=5246&intent=buy-used&mileage=150000&pricetype=private-party]Kelley”>http://www.kbb.com/volkswagen/golf/2001-volkswagen-golf/gls-hatchback-4d/?condition=good&vehicleid=5246&intent=buy-used&mileage=150000&pricetype=private-party)</p>

<p>Look at Kelley Blue book value, look at Craigs List in your area to compare with other cars in your price range.</p>

<p>I plugged in the info I know and it is little higher than what you got, but maybe the $3500 is a tiny bit over.
I obviously haven’t seen the inside of the car and gotten a list of all the total specs on it but this is what I got:
[Kelley</a> Blue Book](<a href=“http://www.kbb.com/volkswagen/golf/2001-volkswagen-golf/gls-turbo-hatchback-4d/?category=&intent=buy-used&pricetype=private-party&condition=good&quizconditions=&options=201703|true|201883|true|201858|true&path=&vehicleid=5256&mileage=153000]Kelley”>http://www.kbb.com/volkswagen/golf/2001-volkswagen-golf/gls-turbo-hatchback-4d/?category=&intent=buy-used&pricetype=private-party&condition=good&quizconditions=&options=201703|true|201883|true|201858|true&path=&vehicleid=5256&mileage=153000)</p>

<p>Were they freeway miles or city miles?
[2001</a> Volkswagen Golf GL 2.0L 4-cyl. 5-speed Manual Reliability](<a href=“http://www.edmunds.com/volkswagen/golf/2001/reliability.html?style=100001919&sub=]2001”>http://www.edmunds.com/volkswagen/golf/2001/reliability.html?style=100001919&sub=)</p>

<p>Compared to other cars in my price range in Austin, it is pretty nice and the fact that I know this person is comforting- though I don’t want that to be the complete lure of it. Volkswagen seems like a solid brand and all the people I know with Volkswagens seem to really enjoy their cars.</p>

<p>Emeraldkitty, the car is an automatic. </p>

<p>[2001</a> Volkswagen Golf GLS 1.8T 1.8L 4-cyl. Turbo 4-speed Automatic Reliability](<a href=“http://www.edmunds.com/volkswagen/golf/2001/reliability.html?style=100001922]2001”>http://www.edmunds.com/volkswagen/golf/2001/reliability.html?style=100001922)</p>

<p>I don’t know if it is “normal” or not, but the catalytic convertor is a big-dollar item. Timing belt is also big bucks, and you should find out how long until you need to replace it again. If both have been replaced recently, that will delay some big repairs to down the road.</p>

<p>I searched around craigslist in different parts of Texas, $3500 isn’t out of line with what others are asking. Kelley is often not very accurate.</p>

<p>Do you have a mechanic you trust who can inspect it for you? Turbos put a lot of stress on an engine, what shape is the transmission in, you want to find out how much life is left in the tires and brakes, battery, any rust, frame damage, etc.</p>

<p>Known reliability problems for that car include:</p>

<ul>
<li>Automatic transmission. ($)</li>
<li>Oil sludge if incorrect oil is used. ($) (correct oil is 5W-40 synthetic)</li>
<li>Mass airflow sensor. (warranty extension; redesigned part now)</li>
<li>Hazard / turn signal flasher / switch. (recalled)</li>
<li>Window regulator clips. (7 year warranty extension; redesigned part used in 2003)</li>
<li>Brake lamp switch which can cause brake lamps to not work or automatic transmission not to be shiftable out of park. (recalled)</li>
<li>Coolant temperature sensor.</li>
<li>Ignition coil packs. (recalled)</li>
<li>Door latch switch that detects door open/closed for alarm, door open chime, etc…</li>
<li>Radio volume changes by itself.</li>
<li>Interior soft touch materials peel.</li>
<li>Air bag controller may fail during a routine maintenance scan of the computer. ($)</li>
</ul>

<p>Also, note when the timing belt was last replaced and compare with the interval in the owner’s manual. Failure can result in engine damage.</p>

<p>Headlamp and brake lamp bulbs burn out fairly often. Changing the low beam headlamp bulb is difficult because there is no way to see what your fingers are doing to clip in the bulb. I don’t know how people do the high beam or front turn signal since those would require very long fingers if you did not want to do front end disassembly. Rear lamps are easy to replace.</p>

<p>Typical tire size is 195/65/15 with load rating of 91, not the more common load rating of 89. Shop for tires carefully.</p>

<p>You may want to take the VIN to a VW dealer and see if you can get the warranty and recall history. Ask the seller for other maintenance and repair records.</p>

<p>Have a good mechanic inspect the car for problems and previous severe or poorly repaired crash damage.</p>

<p>2redhares, I posted the link to Edmunds so you could do your own research for make/model.
:)</p>

<p>I don’t think you should feel tied to this car simply because you happen to volunteer with this person who just happens to be selling a car.</p>

<p>If you’re looking for a used car you should first figure out what type of car you want (coupe, sedan, suv, convertible, sports car), size, fuel mileage target, and budget you’re willing to spend. You should consider objective items like number of miles, the service the car has had done (ex: replaced catalytic converter, rebuilt transmission, replace timing belt, etc.). You should then consider less objective but still sometimes important things like color, overall condition of the body/interior, brand preference if any, etc.</p>

<p>Only after you determine the above should you consider whether your colleague’s car fits what you’re looking for and whether it’s something you should even be thinking about buying.</p>

<p>Really, you should buy the best car that fits your budget and desires. Usually you’re better off with lower miles than more miles, are better off with certain brands that are more reliable than other brands (hint - VW is one of the least reliable brands the last time I checked), are better off with a car that’s been kept up to date on service, better off with a car that’s been well taken care of, etc.</p>

<p>If nothing else head to a Carmax or similar large used car sales place with your budget in mind and see what fits. You can get started by just checking online. </p>

<p>If the VW ends up still appealing to you after all that then you should consider it.</p>

<p>Check the tires well - tires are expensive so you could be facing a $400 or thereabouts hit very soon if the tires aren’t in very good condition.</p>

<p>Regardless of which used car you want to buy you need to realize that in most circumstances, including virtually all private party sales unless you have a specific written contract, used cars are sold as-is with no warranty. This means once you buy it, hop in it, and drive it down the street, if at the end of the block the engine seizes or the transmission fails you likely are stuck with it. Caveat emptor. If you buy certain used cars from some auto dealers, such a ‘certified used cars’ from a manufacturer name dealership (VW, Ford, Toyota, etc.), they might have a warranty. Unless you have a written warranty then figure you have no warranty at all regardless of what the seller implies. </p>

<p>And regardless of which car you want to buy, insist that you be able to take it to a good mechanic to inspect it so some of the issues might be able to be determined (but even then there’s no guarantee). If you buy a certified used car as described above this step is less necessary because of the warranty.</p>

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<p>Good advice. Personally, I would be looking for a vehicle with a better reliability record. A Toyota Corolla is one such vehicle that comes to mind.</p>

<p>I wouldn’t pay much over $2000 for a 13 year old car with over 150,000 miles…100,000 miles maybe $2500 tops.</p>

<p>

I forgot to answer that one but - yes. It’s not unusual to need to replace the catalytic converter at that number of miles although most people only replace them when needed - not really ‘routinely’. I have a vehicle with 219k miles and it has the original catalytic converter and it’s working just fine.</p>

<p>Since you don’t have much experience with vehicles, try to get something with fewer miles on it than this one since this one apparently has over 150k miles on it. You can expect a number of other things to go wrong with it relatively soon unless those items have already been recently replaced. I’m talking about the water pump, timing belt, ignition wires, accessory belts, spark plugs, maybe some fuel injectors, brake components, steering components (tie rod ends, CV joints, various bushings, etc.), suspension components (shocks, various bushings), window motors, heater core, automatic transmission or manual clutch, etc.</p>

<p>Seriously, figure out your budget then try to get something with far fewer miles on it. I recommend NOT getting this high mileage VW.</p>

<p>When you get over 150,000 miles things start needing work every couple of months. When you’re having to spend $500-1000 for repairs every few months, it’s time to find something newer.</p>

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<p>Some sellers, particularly dealers, will install new tires of the cheapest possible tire make and model to be able to say “new tires!” and to cover up any stories the old tires may tell. Some of those cheapest possible tire makes and models may be ones you have never heard of, so finding reviews on their quality (handling, braking, hydroplaning resistance, ride, noise, and fuel economy) may be difficult.</p>

<p>Good point ucb.
New tires would make me suspicious.
Just like shoes, used tires have a story to tell.
Why put new tires on a car you are selling?</p>

<p>My used car got new tires at the dealer; 40,000 miles later, they seem to be holding up just fine. </p>

<p>My concern about this car is the claim that it can go another 100,000 miles. Not many cars can make it to a quarter-million, and most VW owners I know ditched their cars around the 200k mark. They can certainly go for a whole, but they aren’t Mercedes, Honda, Volvo, or Toyota.</p>

<p>Our mechanic says no Volkswagens. </p>

<p>I would add that if I ever buy a used car, I would like some of you to go with me. ;)</p>

<p>Seems very high for a car that old and with that many miles. I wouldn’t.</p>