<p>CBBBlinker - I was afraid to use ME on my white painted doors or any baseboard molding/trim. Someone earlier in the thread said (I think) that it takes the shine off of gloss paint surfaces. My doors/trim is at least a bit glossy and may be high gloss - I forget. Did you find this not to be a problem? Because I am dying to use it on a number of doors and a couple areas of trim.</p>
<p>I was one of those who mentioned that ME removes the gloss. I will never use it again now that I understand it works through abrasion.</p>
<p>jm – we don’t have glossy paint – it’s more of a matte finish, if that’s the correct term. I did test the ME in an inconspicuous place first to be sure. I really can’t tell at all where I used it.</p>
<p>Okay, ix-nay on using it on my trim and doors. Darn!</p>
<p>my-3-sons</p>
<p>Spot-X Hard Water Stain Remover—this is exactly what I need! Thanks!</p>
<p>any suggestions what to use to clean out a stainless steel dog water bowl. It has some built up hard water deposits on the side. It also tends to get green. I soaked it today with bleach and that got rid of the green but not the buildup.</p>
<p>mom60 – LOL, I’ve just spent several hours getting rid of hard water mineral deposits on various faucets, fixtures, and shower heads. As much as possible I try to avoid nasty chemicals, so used the warm vinegar method. For what I was doing, I heated white vinegar in the microwave and using a rubber band and a small, heavy duty plastic bag, let the faucet/shower head soak in the vinegar for about 30 minutes. Then I used a small brush to scrub away the deposits. Worked like a charm, and vinegar is cheap.</p>
<p>Mom60 I soaked our ss dog bowl in a vinegar water mixture and scrubbed with steel wool. I had tried dish soap and the dishwasher but the bowl was still slimy. I don’t know for sure if it was the vinegar or the steel wool. I throw the bowls in the dishwasher every few days now.</p>
<p>I have used the ME on oil-based, semi-gloss wood work, **but **I have not rubbed hard at all. Next to no pressure. So far, so good.</p>
<p>thanks- Vinegar is the one thing I have not tried yet.</p>
<p>ellemenope, have you tried ME on your carpets yet? I don’t have any at the house right now to try it.</p>
<p>WOW!! We ought to submit this thread as a testimonial to the magic eraser! I bought 2 boxes of the “extra duty” ,supposedly stronger sponge/eraser things. While it disintegrated pretty quickly and left little pieces parts all over the place (probably because I first used it on grout) it DID work on the grout and on the really nasty scuffed up linoleum floor in the laudry room. Halleluyah! And I have 3 more eraser/sponge things left to use on other challenging tasks. I will have to decide what to do next. But, skeptic is my middle name, and this thing really worked!</p>
<p>This is a great discussion! I need help with my corean countertop. Accidentally my son put Crazy glue on the counter. I cant get rid of it now.
Tried W40, nail polish remover. No luck!!
any help?</p>
<p>mom60 - I have used the vinegar, full strength (but I imagine diluted in water would work also). No need to heat it as far as I know. I just put things (usually glasses, but now we have a water conditioner to solve the problem) in a large enough Tupperware/bucket to submerge the “sick” item. Leave for just 5 minutes. You could try longer if need be.</p>
<p>robinhood – don’t currently have Corian, but did previously. I think I remember reading you can use a VERY fine steel wool to get rid of stains? Not sure if this would remove the Crazy glue build up though. Also, straight acetone is stronger than regular nail polish remover, so that might work. But, not sure if that would change the finish of the Corian at all.</p>
<p>Re vinegar for mineral deposits – what I read said the warm stuff just works faster. (And since I’m all in favor of doing cleaning as fast as possible, …)</p>
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<p>I don’t know how it works, but there doesn’t seem to be any chemical cleaner listed on the packaging. It has to work by abrasion (or magic…).</p>
<p>As an update- the linoleum laundry room floor is clean, but now dull looking. It has lost its shine. So there myuust be some kind of abrasive in the ME. Maybe pumice or something?</p>
<p>ellemenope, jym- The ME does work by abrasion. My guess is the structure of the microfibers comprising the foam itself rather than an added chemical abrasive. Seems similar to commercial floor buffing pads, foam sanding blocks and pads that have been around for years. </p>
<p>Just an edumacated guess, as I aren’t no engineer. </p>
<p>robinhood- Acetone is the solvent of choice (the only one I’m aware of) for KrazyGlu. It’s available at hardware, paint stores. Use full strength, but test a small area (under an appliance, a hidden edge) first. If it does not affect the Corian (it shouldn’t), saturate a corner of a rag with acetone, and dab the glob. It should soften it. A razor blade/razor scraper used slowly and judiciously should get the glob off. You may have to repeat a couple of times to get it all. Acetone evaporates fairly quickly. Use adequate ventilation, and DO NOT throw the wet rag in your garbage (it’s a potential source of spontaneous combustion). Spread the rag so it dries, and dispose of once dry, preferably in your outside trash receptacle.</p>
<p>I think it leaves a film as I went over floor w/damp mop and it looks fine.</p>
<p>Yes, it’s the melamine resin foam itself.
[BASF</a> Group: Spring cleaning … as if by magic](<a href=“Not Found”>Not Found)</p>
<p>“What looks under the electron microscope like foam on bath water is actually a finely structured three-dimensional network consisting of extremely slender and therefore flexible plastic filaments. The large, almost freely accessible surface produced by this airy structure binds the abraded particles of dirt and contributes to the eraser’s astounding grime-removing capabilities.” [emphasis mine]</p>
<p>"Only surfaces liable to scratching and varnished surfaces should not be cleaned with the “magician.'”</p>