<p>My high school age daughter has wanted a corn snake for a LONG time and brings it up periodically. She is generally cheerful and reliable. Since there is no daily feeding , I am not likely to have to be the feeder if a sleep over or something comes up.</p>
<p>Does anyone have any experience with keeping them? My main concerns are smell and bacteria such as salmonella. I am not afraid of them.</p>
<p>Thanks!</p>
<p>Corn snakes are really easy pets, if you don’t mind the frozen mice in the freezer! Also, changing their cage is easy, since they only poop once every few days. They are beautiful snakes and docile, too. They have no smell, unless you don’t clean up the poop. We never had any salmonella related problems but it’s a good idea to wash your hands after handling. I don’t think we were very strict about that, though.</p>
<p>I have never had snakes. I have had many other animals (I have three right now - two guinea pigs and a large dog), but being a recent college graduate, I know that most dorms will not allow you to have a snake. If you like the snake and plan to keep it after your daughter goes to college, that’s not a problem, but if you expect her to take care of the snake and don’t want it to end up being your pet, it’s probably a bad idea, because the snake will end up with no place to go once your daughter goes to college. I have done some rescue work, and I can tell you that placing an animal into a good home is very hard.</p>
<p>Also, I don’t know if it’s an easy pet or not, but I would definitely encourage you to research that. A lot of animals that are considered ‘easy’ pets (guinea pigs, gold fish, hermit crabs, beta fish, hamsters, etc.) are only considered ‘easy’ because the vast majority of people are very misinformed about their care, and the animals don’t get what they need. Again, I don’t know if it’s the case here, but I would definitely do some research, especially about the size of the tank it needs (the commercial pet industry tends to vastly underestimate the amount of space animals need), etc. Don’t listen to what they tell you in a pet store (that’s a poor source of information), and be careful with books, as a lot of them have really outdated information. I would say the best way to go would be to find an online community with people that keep these snakes as pets. Also, I would strongly advise you against getting the snake in a pet store.</p>
<p>Thanks for the help. As a result of your comments I have been googling their life span, types of bedding and cleaning issues. The snake she is currently fixated on is in a home and comes with a tank but I’ll be sure to ask her how big it is and what is the optimal size.</p>
<p>Can you try the snake for the summer and see if she still is enamored of it in September? </p>
<p>And find out what <em>this specific</em> snake is eating. When I sold snakes, we always fed live baby mice. I think it’s better for the snake and there are no freezing/thawing issues that you can have with the frozen. I hated the live feeding … and we no longer sell snakes.</p>
<p>The corn snakes are a good choice … many pretty varieties and relatively easy to keep. In my case, I decided that I didn’t sell enough snakes to alienate everyone in my community with a snake phobia. And so, my pet store is snake free.</p>
<p>acollegestudent: I would point out that many independent pet stores have well educated and dedicated owners and staff – my reptile specialist has a degree in natural resources management and is currently on leave studying rattlesnakes in central Connecticut. Last summer’s leave he spent in Florida researching gopher tortoises. My own degree is in animal science – dogs cats horses cows rabbits poultry etc. My newly hired employees must all complete an online training program in the first 60 days of employment in order to keep their job. I cannot say the same about the big box pet chains – and those employees will often call us (from their store phone) to inquire about what products to sell with a specific reptile for a proper set up. (Yes, we find that amusing!)</p>
<p>My older d. started breeding them when she was six, and could do Mendelian charts of the potential coloring of the offspring before she could do two-place addition. Tassel and Silk are now 16 years old. They were a little friendlier when they were handled more often. But they are still beautiful! (One is amelanistic, the other amelanistic-anerythristic - you should have heard my then seven-year-old explain it.) I can’t get my d. to take them to Princeton. When we got them they were 10 inches long. Now about four feet. Want 'em?</p>
<p>Frozen microwavable mice are yummy!</p>
<p>I took care of the science class snake, who happened to be a corn snake, during middle school. When I fed him, once a week, all I had to do was heat up some water, drop two frozen “fuzzies” (mice that have hair) in until they had defrosted, and feed them to the snake. He got fed in a plastic bag in what I was always told was a way to cut down on aggression, which was also why he was fed pre-killed mice. At the time, I think he measured around four feet long. The tank was probably about three feet maybe a little longer. One of the bigger problems with this particular snake though was that he was an escape artist. He escaped once in the school building, and when he came home with me during the summer I could hear him falling back into the mulch on the floor of the cage as he tested the lid. So if you decide to get the snake, make sure there are clamps to hold the lid of the cage tightly on. There is a certain smell to a snake but it’s not nearly as bad as a hamster or other rodents. All reptiles can carry salmonella, but if you’re worried, just wash your hands before and after handling the snake. I hope this information helps a little.</p>
<p>Also, definitely consider vet bills. Exotic vets can be expensive, and it’s pretty hard to find a good one. I live in New York City, so there are tons of vets, but there are maybe two that I would take my guinea pigs to. The rest literally don’t know what they are talking about. I bet it’s really hard to find one that’s good with snakes, and the cost can be HIGH.</p>
<p>As for pet stores, I, as a rule, don’t buy from stores that sell animals. Maybe it’s different for stores that sell JUST reptiles - I don’t know about that. I just know that for small animals, any pet store that sells them just contributes to the huge overpopulation problem, and people are really not screened in any way to ensure that the animal goes to a responsible home. Breeding them is very dangerous for the mothers and really unnecessary. I won’t calim to know about reptile-only stores, but if I could, I would still opt to adopt.</p>
<p>And definitely double-check everything. Even if the person you get the snake from says the tank is fine, they may very well be misinformed, even if they have good intetions. Finding good information is hard. For example, there were many 'expert" books written about how iguanas needed to eat meat. Only recently was it found that they are actually vegetarian.</p>
<p>Another thing you might want to consider, for what it is worth. There was a reference earlier in the thread about people who have a “snake phobia.” If you are not afraid of snakes you might be surprised at the vehemence felt by some people who are afraid of snakes.</p>
<p>Of course, you are absolutely free to have whatever kind of pet you wish in your own home. However, if you have visitors, please-please notify them in advance that you have a snake in your home. This will save you and them from embarrassment.</p>
<p>We had snakes for a few years and never had a problem with visitors. Most people were fascinated, but from a safe distance. However, one of the corn snakes did escape and was never seen by us again, unfortunately. We have had cats, dogs, guinea pigs, hamsters, turtles, fish, and snakes, and snakes were definitely the lowest maintenance of them all. Although I should add that they were my H and S’s pets so I didn’t personally see to their upkeep. For bedding, they just used a few sheets of newspaper. Very easy to keep the tank clean. Feeding was once/week – drop a frozen mouse in water til thawed, dropped it into the tank. No problems with aggression. Watching a snake eat is kind of fascinating/repellant, depending on your point of view. Most of our snakes were from snake shows where you have your selection of young snakes, and the sellers are all “snake people”. If you go to one, you may be tempted to get different kinds. One word of warning: don’t get a ball python, even though they’re beautiful and fascinating, they’re harder to keep. I’m not a snake fan myself, but I did become tolerant of them and was even able to handle them without getting the willies.</p>
<p>be happy- * my daughter* is begging me for a wallaby
<a href=“Outback%20Christmas%20Tree%20and%20Kangaroo%20Farm%20-%20Arlington,%20WA”>url=http://www.christmastreesandroos.com/</a> The Outback Christmas Trees & Kangaroos Home Page</p>
<p>Well, what I can tell you is only from experience.</p>
<p>Corn snakes are wonderful pets. They are extremely easy to care for. They require a minimum of care. Our snake is not aggressive or slimy(contrary to popular opinion).</p>
<p>They are rather slim and small when first purchased, think of a pencil. By the time several years have passed your snake will be about four feet long, when stretched end to end, and several inches in diameter. They are great for anyone who has allergies.</p>
<p>They are quiet and clean, (as clean as you keep them). We feed frozen defrosted mice to the snake about once a week.</p>
<p>They are constrictors and will wrap around your arm/wrist or other part, I have never had my snake wrap too tightly. If they did, you can easily remove them just by unwrapping them from one end like a coil. They are low maintenance and inexpensive to keep. We do not keep our snake in a tank, we have a cage with fine mesh screening on all sides. Inside the cage are some branches for climbing and some bedding with a large water dish. Since corn snakes often soak in their water dish, use a fairly large heavy dish that will not tip easily.</p>
<p>Take your snake out and handle often, this way the snake will get used to being handled and also used to your scent. It is possible to get bitten but handling your snake often should minimize this possibility. I have never been bitten by our snake and handle him all the time.
Just do not grab your snake too quickly or handle after feeding without washing your hands,
(you do not want to smell like your snake’s food).</p>
<p>Corn snakes can live a really long time, so be prepared for this time commitment. </p>
<p>A corn snake is a really good pet which can even be left alone for weekends or short periods of time. Make sure that your pet is fed prior and has plenty of water. For longer periods of time I board my snake at a local pet store. Cost is minimal.</p>
<p>I keep my house fairly warm in the winter so I do not use any additional heating for the snake. Just double your snake’s bedding as they will bury themselves most of the time anyway.</p>
<p>As they grow they will shed their skin periodically which is a fascinating process to watch. Handle your snake as little as possible during this process. Discard the shed snakeskin as it serves no purpose.</p>
<p>If you have any other questions, just post and I will try to answer.</p>
<p>My son had two cornsnakes. The deal was he had to feed them the mice. We got live mice and he fed them. I think my state might have since banned the sale of live mice for food which says a lot about my state. Anyhow, he was ten when he got the snakes and handled them fine by himself, including cleaning out the cage. One of the snakes was kind of aggressive and would nip him which he didn’t like. When he went off to college eight years later, only one snake was still living – the aggressive one. We agreed that the snake needed a new home and the Exotic Pet store took him back. It’s not like giving a dog away – the snakes don’t get bonded to the owner and my son was fine with letting him go. I don’t think cornsnakes count as exotic animals – they live where there is corn and catch mice.</p>
<p>OP - be glad your kid is not asking for a sugar glider!</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>Not 100% true. Any store? Let’s see what cnp has to say about that. For some reason, I have yet to see a huge overpopulation of pet snakes or goldfish… There is for sure a huge overpopulation of cats and dogs (I personally adopted 4 shelter cats and one dumpster kitty, and found a home for 2 other dumpster kittens) because of irresponsible behavior of people who know nothing about running a pet store or a veterinary clinic…</p>
<p>Corn snakes can live for quite awhile; my D has had her corn snake for 10 years. Your daughter may not be able to take her snake to college so are you ready to be the primary caretaker? </p>
<p>No problems on care, smell (just scoop out the poop), or salmonella. We never had anyone get sick from handling the snake.</p>
<p>So anyone want two beautiful cornsnakes (with interesting mutations?)</p>
<p>What do snakes die of? Cancer? Old age? Choking?</p>
<p>Abandoned snakes are a huge problem in Florida. But I didn’t see corn snakes on this list of trouble makers.</p>
<p>[USGS</a> Release: Report Documents the Risks of Giant Invasive Snakes in the U.S. (10/13/2009 12:00:00 PM)](<a href=“http://www.usgs.gov/newsroom/article.asp?ID=2324]USGS”>http://www.usgs.gov/newsroom/article.asp?ID=2324)</p>
<p>Thanks BB. I get very upset when people paint all pet stores with the same brush. Say anything you want about Petcosmartlandia … but independents are all, well, independent and don’t fit that slick corporate big box retail discount model. I belong to a national organization of independent pet stores and all 500 of us are individual stores.</p>
<p>My degree is in animal science. I have educational, personal, and professional experience with all kinds of animals … from small mammals to large, including a stint as a vet assistant, several years running stables and training horses and riders, and showing dogs in obedience and agility. I plan to show my new puppy in both performance and the breed ring. I’ve taken short courses in exotic birds, small mammals, reptiles, puppies and kittens.</p>
<p>Our store philosophy is that no livestock leaves the store without appropriate information and supplies. We talk about forever-homes, and make sure that every purchaser is aware of the time commitment when providing a forever home. I’ve been known to recommend the plush version rather than the live version if that’s more appropriate. I won’t even carry macaws or cockatoos because they are not appropriate to my customer base, generally speaking. We make our decisions based on what’s right for the animals.</p>
<p>My small animals – rabbits and guinea pigs – are not coming through livestock distributors, but rather from show breeders with some excess production. By stocking my store with animals from private breeders, I get better quality, assured bloodlines, and healthier animals. </p>
<p>My fish and reptile specialist has a degree in natural resources management from Rutgers and is currently on leave researching rattlesnakes in central Connecticut. Last summer, he was in Florida researching gopher tortoises. He’s also a reptile hobbyist, and you can’t convince me that any reptile leaving my store is leaving with misinformation and/or an inappropriate set up.</p>
<p>My store does not sell puppies or kittens. I do believe it’s possible to do it humanely, correctly, and with good outcomes for the animals and their families, but I choose not to for a variety of reasons.</p>
<p>I’m not the only independent that operates in this manner. But it does take hands on management and a commitment to animal welfare rather than corporate profits.</p>
<p>“My small animals – rabbits and guinea pigs – are not coming through livestock distributors, but rather from show breeders with some excess production. By stocking my store with animals from private breeders, I get better quality, assured bloodlines, and healthier animals.”</p>
<p>Shows are EXTREMELY stressful and unnecessary for guinea pigs (unlike for some dogs, that may enjoy it). There is absolutely no reason to show them, and it’s not responsible to do so. If you breed a guinea pig, there is a 20% chance that the mother will die, so breeding them is hurting the sows they are breeding. Most importantly, there is a huge overpopulation problem and tons of homeless piggies being euthanized every day. Breeders are only making the problem worse, and whatever they may say, they don’t really breed for health. They breed for looks. There is absolutely no reason to breed guinea pigs.</p>
<p>cnp55, do you have 7 sq ft of room per two piggies in your store? Do the breeders you get your piggies from? Do they get a cup of fresh veggies each every day? What about at the breeder’s pigs?. Even if you yourself meet all the guidelines, I would be willing to bet that a lot of the breeders don’t. Also, as a store, you probably don’t do home checks to ensure the piggy goes to the best possible home.</p>
<p>“My store does not sell puppies or kittens. I do believe it’s possible to do it humanely, correctly, and with good outcomes for the animals and their families, but I choose not to for a variety of reasons.”</p>
<p>I was very surprised to hear you say that, because all the reasons why this is true are the reasons why it’s true with guinea pigs.</p>