For baseboards, what about a simple 5" or 6" board with a milled quarter-round top? Buy that 1x6 pre-painted (or even the synthetic stuff) and have your carpenter round off the top edge? Very plain but big enough to make a difference.
Wow. Just wow. This house is going to be spectacular. If you weren’t so far away I’d hire you to consult on my project.
I agree with you and your agent about no fussy design in the baseboards. How about simple 1x6 or 8, perhaps with the top rounded over.
Great minds think alike
re baseboards - personally I really dislike clamshell-style moldings. I just don’t like the look.
I would suggest something simple like 1x6 straight lumber (3/4" x 5 1/2" actual size) with a base cap on the top - you could use an 11/16" quarter round for a slight reveal, or something slightly fancier like this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Alexandria-Moulding-5-8-in-x-3-4-in-x-96-in-Primed-Finger-Jointed-Pine-Base-Cap-Moulding-WM172-94096C/206876643
ETA: Haha, looks like many of us are on the same page molding-wise. 
I could try that, great idea, except it’s double the labor to cut and nail in the two pieces. Not to mention that it would have to be caulked together and then painted in place again.
I would need to use MDF because it is most cost effective and most baseboards are now MDF. Because it is MDF, it’s very difficult to ‘round’ the top edge of the straight board. Unfortunately, all I can think about in my head is if there is a ‘lip’ at top… all the dust that will get trapped and those baseboards will have to be cleaned all the time. But my agent told me to stop worrying about having to clean the baseboards 
Here are some ideas from a local warehouse that will deliver:
Then you have to use the little search box in the upper left to look at these:
Base 358 MUL 7 1/4" (put 358 in box)
Base 314 MUL 7
Base 315 MUL (this is lowest cost)
Casing 108 MUL
cb, Mr. and I toured a bunch of NEW townhomes listed at $1M+, and frankly, I have no idea what the baseboards looked like in those homes! I can tell you all about the kitchen and the bath layout and the garage space, but baseboards… LOL.
SCHEDULE UPDATE
Here is what we have left to do. I’ve broken them down into phases:
TO TAKE SOME PHOTOS FOR INTERNAL EMAIL TO POINT LOMA AGENTS (not on MLS yet). My goal is to take photos through living room, kitchen photos, front yard and gate and upper deck photos, emphasizing the views. Goal is to have this email out to agents by Nov 21
Finish building large deck off living room
Build stairs from deck to front path
Install lighting in living, dining, kitchen, powder room, hallways
Paint top floor
Install flooring top floor
Tile master bathroom and install shower fixtures
Install towel rods, toilet paper holders, mirrors in powder room and kid’s bathroom area
Install countertops in kitchen and pantry, sink and faucet
Install appliances into kitchen
Finish white stucco coat including front curved wall
Finish landscape in front yard (still need some more plants and mulch)
Remove scaffolding
Remove construction fence in back of house
Install exterior lighting
Install countertops on top deck
Baseboards and door casings on main floor (where photos will be taken)
TO TAKE PHOTOS FOR LISTING (probably one week later)
Tempered glass railings on decks
Master bathroom vanity
Powder room vanity and toilet
Flooring on top floor
Baseboards and trim on top floor
Lots of cleaning and Stage
Shower glass enclosure
Install all remaining lighting
Haul a bunch of stuff to the dump
FOR OPEN HOUSE - trying for Dec 4th but probably really Dec 11
Connect all faucets to plumbing
Clear out back yard and mulch
Repair back deck and paint
Smoke detectors/Carbon Monoxide detectors
Railings for staircases
And then there is a lot of small stuff we will do to get ready for a home inspection when we go into contract
Re baseboard, I really feel than the plain bullnose is more in keeping with the aesthetics of this house. You don’t want something colonial-looking. And you do not want to draw the eye there. The action is the ceiling and the windows.
Agreed on baseboard. Trying to find plain baseboard, but I think I want it tall (not wimpy 3 1/2"). Leaning towards 7 1/4" tall baseboard
Lordy…
Got my first estimate from a local glass company for 3 sets of tempered glass railings and the shower enclosure…$11,000!!! Are you kidding me? They want $2,500 just for the shower enclosure. I’m used to paying about $1,200 although I know that this shower is a little longer than normal.
Next… trying to get two other companies to come out and give estimates
Oh, BTW, if you do go for that island note that it has BIN PULLS! 
As I said before, I think bin pulls on the lowers and knobs on the uppers would look nice in that kitchen.
I have bin pulls here to sample after countertops go in. Unfortunately i think they will only work on the drawers. Everything else opens up sideways:)
Countertops going in right now!!! It can’t get anymore exciting after 8 months of staring at sticks of lumber and boring pipes:)
Pictures!!!
Cannot load them from phone. Going to have to load tonight
Looking forward to the pic upload tonight! Excited to see the countertops.
Re: bin pulls --I find drawer pulls more functional than bin pulls, since you can put your hand in from either the top or the bottom to open a drawer. Just walked over to my drawer stacks and opened a couple – I always put my hand through the pull from the top, since they’re all lower than my waist.
We have decided to lay out a selection of cabinet handles and let the buyer pick their choice.
Are you sure you want to do that? Many people lack imagination and the kitchen may appear unfinished without the hardware. If I were you, I’d go for the polished, finished look. It is not as if people have that strong of preferences in cabinet pulls.
Ditto the above… I’m a control freak during a remodel but want to see everything done in a new house buy. Nobody is going to buy/not buy based on pulls.