<p>I do not normally click on this thread, but Coralbrook what about a shower only instead of a bathtub to save space? I may not have a clue. If so, never mind.</p>
<p>I think the code requires 2 feet between the toilet and the vanity.</p>
<p>coralbrook, could you have used the utility company to trim your trees? I know SoCal Edison up in my neck of the woods will do it for free, and they seem to do a pretty nice job only going after branches that are endangering the power lines.</p>
<p>I actually have a tree the city planted a long while back which is: breaking up our curb, planted right between the water meter and our sewer line (trunk is ~3’ away from both), and has already grown completely entangled into the power lines. I got in contact with the county and they agreed to remove the tree for free. Even said they’d plant a replacement tree as long as it’s in the parkway. I think we’re going to try to go with a dark purple Lagerstroemia.</p>
<p>In hindsight I should have just called electric co to trim back the tree. I would have saved a lot of money and heartache. Another hard lesson learned.</p>
<p>In our area, code is 15" to centerline each side of toilet but I think that is too tight. I try for minimum of 16" each side. My issue is front of toilet to edge of bathtub, I’ve got about 30" and I’m hoping that’s not too tight. I forgot code but sounds like Art lover has a nbr of 24" so I might be OK. I usually have my large lead guy sit on a pretend toilet and we work from there!! He is so sweet to indulge me, sitting on a bucket while I design around him, driving him crazy because he thinks I’m wasting valuable time.</p>
<p>I could only squeeze shower stall into master bath by pushing out into master bedroom closet. For resell I have to have a bathtub in hall bath. Although I truly cannot imagine anyone with kids buying this house because it is so small.</p>
<p>My agent and I are trying to do a market analysis to determine our target audience. It’s important because I want to know the right finishes for our target; contemporary or traditional.</p>
<p>Sent from my Nexus S 4G using CC</p>
<p>IBC code which most states use requires 21" in front of a toilet. I believe CA requires 24". If you don’t have shower doors it will feel fine. We had 15" in our bathroom before we remodeled and it never bothered me that much because it’s only your knees that don’t have room if you are across from a bathtub. In our first house our kids shared a room that was 7’ wide and about 11’ long.</p>
<p>The worst tree disaster I ever had was the result of the electric co. Duke Energy subs out all their tree work to The Hatchet Co. They don’t give a da n about the tree’s health or exactly where their right-of-way ends. </p>
<p>I’ve had them clear-cut and leave the stub 20’, no crown. Looked exactly like a telephone pole. Told me it would “come back”. Indiana had a class-action suit due to repeated incidents like this.</p>
<p>Had a bathroom in rental built under an eave. It was a long rectangular room. The toilet was immediately perpendicular at the door, had to crawl over that to get into the tub from the faucet end. Mini-sink was between those two. Thankfully, the kitchen was large and square and we bumped into that and put in a shower. Still requires a not too tall person who can slightly lean to the left…</p>
<p>Wow, that bathroom sounds really interesting. Too funny</p>
<p>Sent from my Nexus S 4G using CC</p>
<p>Those galvanized pipe is doing a number on me. Today crawed under the craw space trying to add a dryer vent. I wanted to make sure the installer knows where to install. To my horror I noticed a pipe is leaking in two places it is rusted out. The leak is very small but still. </p>
<p>Got a contractor quote. Coralbrook, can you comment on this?</p>
<p>Two and half bath 2000 sf house two stories two full bath upstairs</p>
<p>Price quote:
4500$ </p>
<p>Includes labor and material
Job incl. from curb 50 feet to the house replace all pipes to copper. Only one upstairs full bath will be stripped. Other areas will have small holes. Price not include rebuild of the removed bath. No fixtures will be included either. </p>
<p>Oh the two full bath are back to back</p>
<p>Do you think its a fair quote?</p>
<p>Boy i thought i bought a cosmetic fix.</p>
<p>Found myself pulling out of the bank today looking at an arts & crafts bungalow that could use some TLC and thinking wouldn’t it be fun to buy that house and flip it. That thought will have to wait until I win the lottery though 
Just wanted coralbrook and artloversplus to know you are having a bad influence on me.</p>
<p>Artlover,
I’m not really sure, although you tried to give me as much info as possible.</p>
<p>I would recommend that you try not to dig up the main line underground from the house to the street - that is very expensive.</p>
<p>From what I understand they are gutting out an upstairs bath for you (including demolition and hauling away trash)?? </p>
<p>My experience is that there will be about half a dumpster of trash involved with trying to pull out the old galvanized pipe, tearing off drywall, etc. Just the demo and hauling for a bath is about $500. Materials are probably about $750.</p>
<p>If the contractor is going to repair all the walls, drywall and mud. And, that includes replacement of shower/bathtub, vanity and toilet and fixtures, I think it is a good enough quote for the job.</p>
<p>If it only includes the rough plumbing in the walls and under the house, it’s a little high.</p>
<p>We finished installing a temperature-controlled electric attic fan (totally cool thing, first time I have ever installed one), replaced a lot of sub floor, installed our new Heater and AC system with ducting and vents (only thing in house was a dead wall heater). Created a giant pile of trash again in one week (how does this keep happening??).</p>
<p>New pictures posted to our group, including the naked tree.</p>
<p>I will be driving D to her freshman dorm tomorrow at 6am and will probably be offline for about 3 days. Gave the crew a 4 day weekend off so we will be back to work on Tuesday.</p>
<p>Forgot to mention one crazy thing we found while working on subfloor. This house was built with the floor boards installed first, before the wall framing was even built for the sides of the house or before the roof was installed… Craziest thing we have ever seen. So the wall studs are on top of the old sub floor, making it very difficult to try to install new subfloor needed in the baths and kitchen areas. We had to go around the whole perimeter of the house and install 2 x 6 pretreated wood joists drilled into the concrete to create a ‘platform’ to nail in the new sub floors. Lots of extra work that was not expected.</p>
<p>Yes, the quote includes remove garbage. But it does not include fixing the dry walls or the shower stall. Neither it includes all the fixtures.</p>
<p>Surprisingly the dig out the main from the curb is only 500$! The flex pipe alone is 250 already, I just bought one for the other house, of course the other house does not need to go under the 6’ concrete patio. Perhaps he quote the 500$ just to entice the deal, had it been sole project the price will be higher.</p>
<p>I was lucky that I did not paint any bath rooms before I found the problem. I guess once it leaks in two places, they will keep on break up other places.</p>
<p>The real problem is the craw space is very small no more than 2 feet high, I barely could craw through, to work in there is going to be tough. </p>
<p>I am bringing the crew from the other house to see what they quote.</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>There, you mind as well rebuild the house. lol</p>
<p>For those that are looking at our group pictures, notice the lovely radio on the top of the trash pile. We found that under the floor - have no idea why it was in the crawlspace. I’m sure I should put that up on eBay as an antique boom box!</p>
<p>
Open it up, you may have found someone’s stash. :D</p>
<p>Just got an automated email update on the comparable that I am following on Dale St. After only 6 days on the market they have dropped their price to a range of $440,000 to $459,000. Originally listed at $469,000. I’m guessing that they just didn’t get any action at their original list price.</p>
<p>Two other comparables somewhat close to my property - one sold very quickly at $419,000, no garage (another flip) and another flip is lingering at $370,000 with no offers. Prices are all over the place. I’m starting to get worried but my agent is still insisting we will get our price.</p>
<p>A small little Tudor style home in poor condition just sold for $380,000.</p>
<p>My target when I bought this is $425,000. We’ll see what happens as we go through this.</p>
<p>coralbrook</p>
<p>regarding that plumbing job, replacing galvanized to copper. </p>
<p>First of all, I started the quote of $4500 with Labor and Material. The material portion does not include any thing out side of the wall. If you say</p>
<p>
</p>
<p>Is that the labor part only? Because the material part of the “outside of the wall” could vary largely based on what you pick.</p>
<p>I and my crew had figured out the in-wall material cost today and it is not going to be 500$. Here is a break down"</p>
<p>3/4" type M 160 ft for about $300
1/2" type M 60 ft for about $70
flex 3/4" type L (water main) 60 ft for about $240
fittings, flux, solder, propane etc $300±
Angle stops etc $100</p>
<p>Total material cost $900~1000</p>
<p>We also crawed all over the crawl space to re inspect every joint and such to estimate labor which is around 200 hours, that should include rebuild the demolished bathroom with tile on the floor and choice of shower, vanity and all the other fixtures. There are 4 pieces 4’x8’ dry walls will be removed from the demolished bathrooms, other than that some part of the drywalls in the half bath and under the kitchen sink will be removed as well. All dry walls will be patched or re-installed, taped, mudded, textured, primed and painted.</p>
<p>Garbage will be removed from the site at the cost of the contractor.</p>
<p>To save labor, we are not going to remove the old pipes in places that require more demolition than necessary, we are going to run the new pipe along the old or take a different route to get there.</p>
<p>I am investigating PEX for re-piping, it is approved in CA. The Uponor pex looks promising and it is cheap and save on labor. Have you looked at it, CB?</p>
<p>My plumber has used PEX for me in a number of places, including a FHW heating system.</p>
<p>It is definitely a lot faster to install.</p>
<p>Just be very careful of the connections… my plumber messed one up, and the result was the fire department showing up at 3 AM to shut to water off.</p>