<p>What is a reasonable amount to charge for my stuff? For example, I have a box of DVD’s that I started marking for $1.00 apiece. Is that too cheap? And what is a good price for books? I’m thinking 25 cents for paperbacks and 50 cents for hardbacks. </p>
<p>I’m probably overthinking this, but I don’t want to just give things away.</p>
<p>I haven’t had a garage sale in 20 years, and I really don’t shop at them. Any advice is welcome.</p>
<p>You should cruise a few garage sales in your neighborhood and see what the going rate is. In my experience it’s easier to give it to Goodwill and take the tax break!</p>
<p>Two types of garage sales: one that tries to make money and one that wants to get rid of stuff.</p>
<p>Your DVD’s are priced right for garage sales around my neighborhood and so are your books.</p>
<p>Have things clean and organized. Make sure things work and have an outlet nearby for people to test electrical stuff. Have plenty of signs, bags and change. We never open our garage door until we are ready so that early birds don’t bother us. I am always firm on prices the first day unless it is something I really want to get rid of. And lastly, don’t bring most of it back in the house- call Goodwill.</p>
<p>I’m with mathmom - donate the items and take the tax deduction if you itemize and whether you itemize or not, you can feel good about the products continuing to be used and the benefit to the charitable organization from the income.</p>
<p>Totally agree with mathmom and ucsd<em>ucla</em>dad - IMO, having done a few garage sales over the years, it’s a lot easier to donate the items to goodwill. We have never made enough money to justify the time spent putting on a garage sale. YMMV.</p>
<p>Your pricing seems reasonable to me. To hold or not to hold a garage sale - it depends on what else you have to sell. Tools, kids clothing, small household appliances are good sellers that draw a lot of buyer traffic. If all you have to sell are books, DVDs and the like - donate them.</p>
<p>The more you donate to Goodwill, the more folks like Packmom and I will have to buy :)</p>
<p>That being said…when we had a tag sale, our prices were pretty much what you put on your things…and we were very willing to negotiate. The deal in our house was that whatever didn’t sell at the tag sale did NOT return to the house. It went in the van and went directly to Goodwill…so we got a tax break AND some petty cash.</p>
<p>Thanks all. We donate frequently to Goodwill, but in anticipation of planning to list our home (again), we are taking advantage of some good weather this Saturday and unloading quite a bit. I have permission to sell DS’s gaming systems, and DD cleaned out her room before she headed back to college. We also have a nice ping-pong table, camp trunks, small furniture, etc. </p>
<p>I’m not a fan of garage/tag sales. DH thinks we have enough valuable stuff to make an effort. Of course, I’m the one doing the work :)</p>
<p>Ok, so you aren’t going the donation route…
I used to volunteer at the local thrift store. Visit one in your area if you have time, but if not something like .50 for paperback and 1.00 for hardback, clothes in the 1.00 - 5.00 range unless they are special. Expect to negotiate on bulk purchases.
Charge your kids with finding out the going price for gaming stuff and then ask 1/2 or 1/4 that.<br>
Best of luck to you!</p>
<p>Any Disney movie or hit movie from past 3 years you can probably mark at $2. Older stuff that you probably paid <$10, should be marked at $1. </p>
<p>If you really want move the books, offer quantity discount up front - 1/$0.50 or 3/$1 for paperbacks, double that for hardbacks.</p>
<p>Just be prepared for some annoying people that will offer you absurd prices . My tip : don’t put prices on more expensive things . Often people will offer you MORE than you were going to ask ! If it’s low , you could say ," Well, I was thinking X " .</p>
<p>$1 Hardbacks, 50 cents papersback, $2 DVDs if newer
Have a free box.
Try to price stuff–people don’t like to have to ask (unless seasoned!) If you see someone hesitating over a price inform them it’s negotiable. Especially big items (but don’t lowball yourself). Don’t let people undercut your prices by much if you think it’s already fair (be nice and tell them to come back tomorrow and get it if it’s still there…) You can put a slightly higher price on a few things in anticipation of negotiating.
You can do the dollar table, 5 dollar table etc.
Group like with like–china, gaming, linens etc. , electronics (check them or have plug nearby)
Put some big items at end of driveway to pull people in to your sale.
Have plenty of change (wear a waistbelt) and small bills especially.
SIGNS are the most important part–make sure people can find you! Don’t put times on them. Advertise as a moving sale. Do a newspaper ad and list your ping pong table and bigger pieces. Have fun! Make sure you have someone to help you so you can get a break.</p>
<p>Tell your neighbors and see if anyone wants to join in. Good for traffic if there is more than one sale going on.</p>
<p>Agree about the time not being worth the profit. However, it is a deadline that makes one go though bookcases and closets, so more efficient than gradually adding to the St. Vinnies pile in the basement. And it is fun to chat with the neighbors, and as long as it is on the lawn, a shorter trip to the car and the donation site. Prices vary by neighborhood greatly in my smalll city. I appreciate the paradox of the wealthier neighborhoods often charging higher prices. Who needs the money more, and who holds onto it with a tighter grip?</p>
<p>I’d have to say I’ve always made a pretty good profit. You’d be amazed at how many items you have and even at 25 cents each you could do fairly well. The work is in the prep not the actual sale.
And make somebody else very happy too! (Wow, look what I got for a buck!)</p>
<p>I love going to garage sales but hate having them. My latest find was a painting I picked up for $5 in a beautiful frame. When I got home I goggled the artist who turned out to be a highly thought of local artist who died about 10 years ago (at the age of 90 something) and has several pieces hanging in our city’s museum and in the University’s gallery and has had showings when she was alive around the country. </p>
<p>I have it hanging in my foyer.</p>
<p>Okay, I just got back from picking up change (fives and ones) from the bank, stopped by Home Depot for signs. Went by Radio Shack to buy an adaptor/plug to charge the PSP. I’m down $19.00.</p>
<p>DH and I are arguing over the price on EACH and EVERY item. He has this inflated sense of the value of our stuff and wants me to check ebay prices on most of it. At this rate I’ll be done by Christmas. I just want to move things and what is wrong with making a kid happy with a deal on a PSP? Ugh. He is driving me nuts.</p>
<p>Okay, done venting.</p>
<p>Tell H , “do you want to be sure to sell it or do you want to increase your chances of not selling it at all”??? My H does the same thing. He will have tools for sale that may have more worth, but it doesn’t matter if no one buys them - which they usually don’t!</p>
<p>Another tip for a garage sale is to wear one of those hardware store type aprons with pockets in the front. You can easily carry $$$ to make change or drop $$ from sales into the pockets instead of worrying about a cash box. We pass around whose turn it is to collect the $$ from people and then every once in awhile when pockets get full, empty some into the house where it is SAFE!</p>
<p>If you have tools or other guy stuff (electronics, power tools, sports equipment etc) put it in the ad so men show up. And put your DH in charge of it. Ask your kid prices of used game stuff (it costs so much new but old stuff is just not worth much).<br>
25% retail value (in decent shape) is a decent ballpark figure. Go from there depending on how common an item (kitchen stuff) to maybe more (really good furniture).
The bigger the item (hard to store, nobody has the space, I want to REALLY get rid of this) the cheaper it is. Smaller more valuable items (jewelry, sentimental–I need to get rid of it but I could keep it stuff) keep your price up. Saturday is furniture day–that’s when families can run out with the pick up truck (so don’t panic on a Friday when all the big stuff hasn’t been sold).
And if you have any valuable jewelry or other small expensive items–keep it close to you, not on some faraway table.
If you change your mind on selling something haul it back in the house.</p>
<p>For the lowballers (who are often early birds), politely ask them for their name & number and tell them you will call them if it’s not gone by {x}pm if you want to get rid of it at that price.</p>
<p>Also be willing to cut prices 1-2 hours before closing time to move stuff. There are people that just cruise the sales at that time for bargains.</p>
<p>Agree that it’s not worth it personally unless you have some good stuff. Last one I ran was to benefit our Girl Scout troop. We raised $600+ by pulling in stuff from every troop family, including quite a bit of toddler gear (strollers & playpens) that brought in the big $.</p>