I have ordered seafood, cakes, special food from various restaurants as gifts.
I think it has to be an all-access subscription to get it.
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A subscription for a streaming service that covers his favorite sport - ESPN+, F1 TV Pro, MLB.TV, MLS Season Pass for some examples.
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Instead of trying to surprise him why not ask him if there is something he wants.
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I like surprises 
I looked I have an all access subscription which includes The Athletic. I thought all the subscriptions did that when the NYT bought the Athletic a few years ago.
You can pick and choose what sections you want to pay for. I pay extra for optional sections like Cooking and Games, but I do not pay for The Athletic. All access subscriptions include every section.
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Let us know what you decide 
Day at the spa/hour massage.
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My sons are not into spas or massage so maybe check first. My DiL would enjoy that gift.
Things they enjoyed-Atlas Coffee Club subscription, brewery tour,Icelandic salts, assorted hot sauces, REI gift card; Airmoto tire and bike pump,restaurant and deli gift cards, etc.
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We bought these at a chiropractors office for my daughter and she loved it. Their massage person had great reviews and got to see the chiropractor for free when going. Bonus.
My kids liked ticket’s to a play, music event etc etc. My kids like to do different thing’s. Both don’t really “need” anything. Can always do gift certificates to the above also and they just buy what they want then.
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How about a yearly pass to National parks? We also did this for my daughter who likes to go hiking etc
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Or a pass to a museum or something your son goes to more often. I think that’s what we are giving our son this year.
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Does he like tools? Or new plants or something for the garden?
Does he live near a team? If so, perhaps tickets for that? https://watchufa.com/
There are books of the various NY Times Puzzles (at least for Crossword and Sudoku), and though it won’t be out in time for his birthday, he might be interested in this for Christmas.
If he plays a sport like tennis or golf, a private lesson or a set of lessons? A refresher never hurts and you can learn a lot in an hour, even that your equipment is the wrong size or grip. Or a few sessions with a personal trainer to get a new workout routine?
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AAA subscription? I liked that gift from MIL long ago
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We pay for our kids AAA too—D has used it for a long tow and it gave us peace of mind. Both of their cars are getting older.
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I’ve had AAA since I was 17, my parents used to pay for it. Our 5 kids have it too (gold) since getting their license, we drive our cars into the ground. Our 27 year old drove a minivan with a shot rebuilt transmission for 2 years, couldn’t go in the highway, eventually had it towed home from college 1 1/2 hours away (he hitched a ride with the driver).
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Zingermans in Ann Arbor has a variety of food subscriptions- H is really hard to shop for but he loved the cheese subscription D got him for Christmas one year. A surprise cheese every quarter!
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