<p>First of all, we are not do it yourselfers so I just am looking for an idea of whether this is worth it at all. The grout area behind the sink has a hairline (and a bit larger) crack running through it at the part where the countertop meets the backsplash. This is probably a couple of feet long. It is tile grout. If they scratch it out and redo it, will it crack again from the water? The grout did not crack behind the stove, that is why I think the water did it. Will it crack because of a join in the repair?</p>
<p>You need caulk where two dissimilar surfaces meet - it will always crack if you grout there. Take the grout out, and caulk with flexible silicon. :)</p>
<p>I agree with anothermom. It is super easy to do. Go to Lowe’s or Home Depot, and ask one of the guys to tell you how to do it. I personally use the grout “gun” and my index finger to smooth it out as I go. It always comes out just fine:) Good luck</p>
<p><strong><em>When I said grout gun, I did mean to use the silicone rather then grout…same gun works for both</em></strong></p>
<p>I’ve used the silicone grout in a tube (about the size of a large toothpaste). Easy, inexpensive, and yep, use my index finger to smooth it.</p>
<p>I agree with the best method for meetings of two dissimilar surfaces is a silicon or siliconied latex. </p>
<p>There are pretty good color matches in colored grout to caulk made by companies such as Color Caulk, available at tile stores.</p>
<p>But first, you need to dig out all the grout?</p>
<p>Yes, I’d dig out the grout. There’s a tool you can use (I’ve seen them use it on HGTV - no personal experience).</p>
<p>Be careful, work slowly and cautiously so as not to slip and score, chip or scratch the tile surface. Contingent upon the width of the actual grout joint, a variety of tools may work. Besides the grout saw tool, (the most commercially user friendly tool available), I’ve used an old style beer can opener with the pointed end (before pop tops, pull tabs were invented), an old screwdriver, a utility knife (up to three blades can be set at once to increase thickness of cut on some of the pro models), a dremel tool, or roto-zip. I found the best all round, all purpose tool for this is the cement backer board scoring/cutting tool made by QEP. The carbide tip and 3/32" (approx) thickness of the carbide works great on all but the thinnest of grout joints.</p>
<p>Thanks you guys, sounds like good advice.</p>
<p>I use blue masking tape and a plastic spoon to put in grout. For some reason, the back side of a spoon works much better than a finger for me to spread grout so that it looks pretty. </p>
<p>Has anyone tried that grout smoothing tool that you can only buy from a TV commercial?</p>
<p>If one plane of tiles is resting above the glazed surface of the other plane of tiles then grout won’t stay in place. Both planes of tile have to be kept back from the corner enough to allow the grout forced into the gap to grip the unglazed edges of the tiles of both the counter and backsplash. Otherwise you have to use caulk or better yet, sanded caulk.</p>