<p>Last May, we had a landscaping company that had done extensive work for us six years ago do some more work for us. As part of the work we contracted with them, they had to relocate three pyramidal arborvitae, about three feet from where they were (we extended our patio). </p>
<p>Three months later, one has completely died, another one is showing the same signs, and I think is done for, and the third is showing minimal signs of shock. I contacted the landscape company, and received a letter from them today, stating that had we purchased the trees from them and they planted them, then they would replace them. But they won’t replace ones that they obviously did not transplant correctly, that had been completely healthy for the last seven years that we’ve had them. To me, that’s like saying we won’t guarantee our work. If they have no obligation to cover any transplant work, then what’s to prevent them from doing shoddy work any time a job requires transplanting; they can take 1/2 the time to do it (saving them labor costs), knowing they should be more careful and take longer, but don’t because they don’t suffer any consequences if the plants don’t make it.</p>
<p>By the way, I did some checking today… arborvitae should not be transplanted anytime except for fall - they should have known this.</p>
<p>Anyone have any idea on recourses we can take, other than a nasty letter back, reminding them of how much business we’ve given them, and how we will be sure to spread the news to neighbors that this company screwed us over? I’m guessing it will cost us at least $400 to replace them if we do the work ourselves; if we hire someone, well, that will probably double. Their letter was very brave in offering to come in and give an estimate for replacing the plants.</p>
<p>teriwtt - I’ve served on our neighborhood landscape committee for the last 6 years and we routinely deal with landscaping contractors for new bed design, tree removal, irrigation work. Unfortunately, it is very routine/industry standard for these guys to not guarantee transplanted plant material. But I will say this…the contractors always inform us of this before they put a spade in the ground. </p>
<p>Right now, we are hand watering three trees that had to be moved last year. The workers shaved the roots horribly and the only thing keeping them alive is our committee members hauling water to them through the hot months, sometimes twice daily. This is the second summer we have had to do this for these trees.</p>
<p>The only way to make sure contractors don’t do shoddy work is to stand over the workers and watch them…a lesson we have learned the hard way.</p>
<p>I agree with Idmom06’s comments. The landscaper should have warned you that they could not guarantee the success of transplanted trees. Yes, they should have known if arborvitae trees even could be successfully transplanted at a particular season. (Incidentially, where I live, it is well known that fall is the best time for planting any trees.) </p>
<p>The success of transplants is so dependent on regular watering throughout the first year that I can understand that a landscaper who is not doing regular maintenance would not be in a position to guarantee long-term survival of the plant material. But again, you should have been warned. Many landscapers would probably put such a disclaimer on their bill.</p>
<p>Perhaps you will be able to work out a reduction in the amount billed for the replacements - perhaps half of the estimate?</p>
<p>but I think it’s interesting that they will guarantee the plants for a year if you buy them from the landscaper.</p>
<p>After the put the root ball back in the ground, I even made a comment about needing to get the hose back out (I’d moved it while they were doing the work over a four day period) and make sure they were watered properly. The workers there that day told me, “Oh, you don’t want to water arborvitae too much - they don’t like that.” So it now appears to me that not only should they not have transplanted in late spring, but I should have watered more. I did water, but just the typical amount I did for all my already established landscape, which also includes using Miracle Gro once every two weeks. Of course, in the last month, we’ve had more than enough rain for our area, so I haven’t watered since July. Will probably have to do so by next week as it hasn’t rained now in a week. But things are still saturated.</p>
<p>Arborvitae do actually like a lot of water, the surest way to injure them is to deprive them of water during dry periods. May is a fine time to transplant them, the only time they should not be moved is when the new growth is soft, or during extremely dry or hot weather. Nursery grown trees are easier to guarantee and transplant successfully because they are at the peak of health and have robust and many branched root systems. Plants that have been in the landscape for some time have grown longer, less well branched root systems and have more larger roots cut off during transplanting.
All that said, you should have been informed of the possibility of low survival rate and the lack of guarantee.</p>
<p>I have lost favorite plants even when transplanted at the optimal time. I am still mourning a gorgeous azalea the landscaper transplanted 13 years ago. (I shouldn’t tell you this, right?) Larger plants are more vulnerable.</p>
<p>Your landscapers should have warned you that they couldn’t guarantee your plants, but the fact is large plants are really hard to transplant. It wasn’t necessarily anything they did, though they might have given less than optimal advice about watering.</p>
<p>One other thing I have learned over the years is that watering amounts can be very specific…right down to the gallon depending on the type of tree or shrub, size of root ball or container, time of year, etc. Our committee always waters with milk jugs (rather than hose), so that we make sure we are meeting specific water requirements. </p>
<p>Also, I would not fertilize at all at this time. You are trying to promote root growth and nothing else, so really all that is needed is water. When temperatures cool off, you could try some vitamin B diluted in water or a root stimulator weekly at most.</p>
<p>Btw…here in Texas, transplanting and tree plantings are usually winter endeavors. May transplanting/planting can be very difficult.</p>
<p>yes, ldmom; I’m familiar with the hazards of planting in Texas, as I grew up there. My dad was known in Houston as an amateur version of a professional backyard gardener. When he was alive, the Houston Chronicle wrote a couple of stories about him and his vegetable gardens, which were impeccable. I never gained an appreciation for vegetable gardening, but do find digging in the dirt for annuals and perennials very therapeutic. The difference is that we only have one growing season here, whereas in Houston, he always had three!</p>
<p>Perhaps you could reach a compromise with the landscapers: you buy the replacement plants, they put them in the ground to replace the arborvitae. </p>
<p>Think of it as an opportunity to get rid of the arborvitae ;)</p>
<p>teri - my in-laws are avid vegetable gardeners too…they grow wonderful, delicious stuff, but I could never get into the aesthetic…lol…though many do think vegetable gardens are visually pleasing too. (And I love the gardening sections in the Houston Chronicle! They have some of the best advice columns.)</p>
<p>I’m with you…nothing better than putting your hands in good dirt! In fact, today, one of my landscaping compadres and I intend to conquer nutgrass in some of the jasmine beds in the neighborhood esplanades. And I’m open to ANY hints and advice from anyone re: nutgrass. I think we have just about tried it all and may have to dig areas of the beds up and start over. Before we do that though, we are trying a new digging tool today and going after the root or ‘nut’.</p>
In fact, today, one of my landscaping compadres and I intend to conquer nutgrass in some of the jasmine beds in the neighborhood esplanades. And I’m open to ANY hints and advice from anyone re: nutgrass. I think we have just about tried it all and may have to dig areas of the beds up and start over. Before we do that though, we are trying a new digging tool today and going after the root or ‘nut’.</p>