Convex. Such that it is higher around the center, or nose region, and tapering lower toward the ears.
I hear you on the Brunschwig fabric. I just used up a remnant of a Schumacher toile print that’s been sitting in my linen closet forever- it wasn’t big enough for anything I needed it for, but was too gorgeous to give up.
I made masks out of it (with a gingham bedsheet for the lining, coordinating colors) and fun grosgrain ribbon ties, and am distributing to my neighbors who are healthcare workers. One of them is a nurse at a major cancer center but gets flexed to Covid duty to cover for colleagues who are ill or still in quarantine. She will get a kick out of knowing the provenance of the fabric (I think Jackie O. used something similar for the East Wing redecoration way back when).
Paying it forward! And I washed the masks in hot water and Tide, dried in the dryer, before packing up to distribute, and they wash beautifully. Not a wrinkle. That is one high quality cotton fabric!!!
You guys are really an inspiration. Thank you for all the neat ideas for my next “new and improved” batch!!!
Some people were cursing their old sewing machines and resorting to hand sewing.
Before setting old Bessie out on the curb, the problem might be with the tension on the machine or just incorrect threading/bobbin winding. Whenever I have an issue, my first step is to rethread the machine. The one I’m currently using has an open top on the part that goes up and down, and often the thread slips off if I’m going really fast.
I also have an issue with some replacement bobbins. They work fine for straight stitching but don’t work with the fancy trim stitches or even the zig zag.
I used a lot of old seam binding for ties and didn’t really like it. Making my own bias tape was taking forever. I now find I like grosgrain ribbon and I did order a bias tape maker which should move production along.
I confess I did order a new mechanical sewing machine back in late March when I was preparing for making masks because I had a really old hand me down computerized one that I hated and the bobbin winder had been broken on it for a long time. (I was using a separate bobbin winder.) I am loving my new machine. 
I agree that experimenting with tension of the machine and bobbin may do the trick in making the machine operate as expected. Use scraps of material the same weight as the masks you plan to sew (the leftover bits of material), so you can properly adjust. Once you adjust, it should be good for a range of similar fabrics.
Changing the needle can also help. Using a topstitch or denim needle (14/90 or 16/100) will make it easier to get over those pleats.
If you have an older machine, many of those manuals are online (Google your make and model) and can get you advice specific to your machine.
Invested in a new machine in December so I can sandwich together quilt tops/batting/backing for the women’s shelter, but it has been indispensable for mask making.
I’m using the pin method to make binding tape. I’ve gotten faster with practice. ? The bias tape maker just frustrates me.
Old sewing machines are so much better than new plastic types. My best machine is the one I got on my 16th birthday. My other machine is a pretty expensive husquvarna that I call new (probably 15 yrs old LOL) and I much prefer the old one for basic sewing or any heavyweight fabric. Any handy mechanically minded person can service a sewing machine, but first line trouble shooting is as above, threading, tension (upper and bobbin possibly) , needle change.
Once this is all over, just get an old machine serviced to get it back in action. IMO don't oil a sewing machine unless you know it is totally cleaned and dry.
OK, I should have prefaced – I wish I had had a really old sewing machine like my grandma had when I was little. The one I had was old, but only about 20 years old. It was a computerized Brother (plastic) and I guess I just don’t like the computerized machines. I would kill for my grandma’s old black mechanical Singer. I also wanted a drop in see through bobbin case, which is on my new one. All in all, this was a great time to get the sewing machine I wanted for myself, based on my own preferences and how I like to work. Could I have gotten the older one repaired? Sure. But what fun is there in that?
On my online quilting groups, old machines are highly prized commodities. If I can ever get my hands on a Featherweight, I am grabbing it. My sister has my 1979 Singer somewhere in her house. Since my niece isn’t using it and my sister has her own machine, I’d like mine back!
I have two old Huskvarna machines, too – one does embroidery and still uses floppy drives (!), so I use it only for that. My new machine is a Janome with metal innards, not plastic. It’s heavy, but I now have 10" to the right of the needle for quilting. Don’t have space or $ for a full-fledged long arm machine.
Back to masks…am trying to pace myself so as not to burn out, but I need the adrenaline rush to get motivated.
I’m with you all on the old machines. My grandmother gave me an all-steel Kenmore for HS graduation. I will take it with me to my grave.
I have a basic question. If I’m making masks just for general shopping and walks outside for my friends, are the pleated ones without nose metal OK? I’m giving them boob tape to seal the top if necessary. I have 500 strips of boob tape I bought a month ago. Will adding the dart at top and bottom help them fit better?
I am assuming I need to make Olson masks for friends who are going back to office work soon?
I learned on a Singer 401a - a 1960’s all metal beast. It’s still in my mom’s house, in its original’s cabinet. And all the original parts
As soon as I’m able I will collect it, have it cleaned and tuned.
That thing is a beast.
I currently am using a 20 years old Singer Centurian - special edition. It’s metal, non-computerized and also is a beast
@amsunshine - can you tell me (PM if you like) what new machine you got? I have a newish computerized machine that was frustrating me (though not nearly to the level that I’d hand-sew instead LOL).
The tension and needle advice was so helpful - thank you all!
I’ve got my mother’s Featherweight ( and another that found at an estate sale) and a four year old Pfaff Performance 5.0. Guess which one I’m using to make masks (or anything else)? The Pfaff, of course. I love that machine. I love the Featherweight too but no way is it better than the modern machine.
I have my tensI on set around 3 and it worked well for sheet material to be made into pleated masks, with extra sheet material attached to pleated masks to make straps. My machine is pretty straight forward. I’ve only used the straight and zigzag. It’s about 30 years old —was used for about a year when acquired and maybe a bit awhile ago and now. I’ve never needed not had servicing.
@coralbrook I think it might depend on the person and their job and how much interaction with people they will need to do. I don’t know that there is general advice as to which types of homemade masks are best, it really depends how they fit the person’s face . Nice of you to make masks for so many people!
I am using my mom’s old machine that she had when I was a child so it is 40+ years old! I had my own, but when I inherited my mom’s I got rid of mine, my mom’s is much easier to use and just better quality. My newer one, which had more bells and whistles, was always giving me problems (just with basic sewing, not technology or anything). So it is also my experience that older is better!
My 20ish YO Singer skips stitches when I try to topstitch (that would be 4+ layers). Changed needles with minimal Improvement. (After I gave up I found a pack of needles when I consolidated my sewing boxes, will look for 14/90 or 16/100 if they’re labeled.) Any suggestions on which way to adjust tension?
I’m a trial and error person. I adjust slowly one direction and then the other. I believe for my machine, it is suggested to start at around a tension of 3. Between 3&4 is pretty much my default. It handles cotton well—multi-layered pleats and all as well as just two pieces of material.
If you are trying to do really thick layers, make sure you have your foot pressure maximized. I assume you are just talking cotton and that shouldn’t be a drama. 14 or 16 sharp should do but as always with skipped stitches, check tension, change your needle, check you are threaded correctly, that your spool is on the right way, does it need a felt or an adapter etc, and use decent thread if you can. Pay attention when you wind your bobbin that you do it correctly and your spool is running smoothly. I am a learn by mistakes kind of person and usually think things are intuitive and I am mostly wrong. Clean your machine, vacuum and a soft brush, make sure to clean where the bobbin goes in, and check the bobbin itself. Some spray air can be good if you are good at vacuuming and spraying at the same time.
Sure! I got the Singer Heavy Duty model 4423. It’s a very simple but very sturdy machine. It has the drop in bobbin and an automatic threader. I did get some extra needles and an overcast foot for it because I don’t have a serger.