Gladwell simply used Bowdoin and Vassar to make a point about how elite colleges can be misdirected in their investment strategies. Food is literally not really the issue. No doubt Bowdoin has great food, but Vassar’s is not that bad (and compared to the college food of 20+ years ago it is relatively gourmet). Vassar’s proximity to the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) means that many of the eateries on the edge of campus are staffed by world-class cooks. But yes, the schools do seem to have different priorities.
Gladwell often uses hyperbole to drive home his salient point(s). It’s a powerful strategy and shouldn’t be taken literally. I’m sure if I were a Bowdoin parent I’d be pissed, but the point is still a good one.