<p>I concede you point. I back off from taking an absolute stand. I suppose, as you say, it is more a political choice which term, Persian or Farsi, one prefers. Maybe I am just stuck on the sound and imagery that “persian” conjures up. There’s romance and mystery in it…, but “farsi”?! – that’s the reality of modern day Iran and you can have it! I would have a hard time even recognizing Tehran today, with its explosive population growth and development since we left some forty two years ago.</p>
<p>Where its population was maybe a few million in the 60’s it is now, apparently, around 12 million! High rise buildings and skyscrapers mushrooming everywhere – right into the foothills of the magnificent Elburz Mountain Range – not to mention multi-lane expressways everywhere one looks. Our house, set against the foothills in a semirural area, is now gone without a trace as mass housing tracts have overtaken all areas. </p>
<p>Sad but true that “you can never go home again”.</p>
<p>As far as “gelato” goes, it IS Italian ice cream but, again, it covers ALL types not just the soft, creamy kind of many wonderful flavors (zabaglione, gianduia, zuppa inglese to name a few that my favorite ice cream shop, Vivoli, in Florence dispensed to its grateful denizens back in the 70’s, when I lived there) that musicamusica insists is the only type befitting the name! I just wish musica could accept that.</p>
<p>Fair enough. That, in a nutshell, is the argument made by advocates of the term “Persian” which in their view connects the contemporary language with the history, culture, and literature of the region, and is far more understandable to Americans than “Farsi” which connotes . . . well, nothing in particular, except obscurity.</p>
<p>Now can we get back to where to find the best soft & creamy ice cream in Tuscany?</p>
<p>In Italy it does cover all types of ice cream, but we are discussing the American usage of the word. I lived in Italy for three years. On Via Della Pergola only two blocks from Vivoli. Still open, but usually closes in December.
Give it up. Stop the insults.</p>
<p>The best ice cream I have ever known was to be had at Vivoli, via delle Stinche, Florence.</p>
<p>Musica - I only insulted you once, for which I apologized, therefore I believe the “insults” have stopped.</p>
<p>It may be obvious that I don’t care much for “American usage”, but that’s another thread. Congratulations on having lived in Italy for three years!!! What took you there and when? Do you have any Italian ancestry? Having had the privilege of such a long time in Florence, what did you like best about it? Least?</p>
<p>Most people would consider “I have known swine who were more appreciative.” to be insulting, but never mind. My brothers raised pigs and they are actually very sweet and appreciative.</p>
<p>I’m glad to hear where the best gelato is, but I may be forced to eat B&J’s if the gelato places are all closed. I wonder if the locals will start eating ice cream in the winter if given the opportunity. Do they buy it in stores to eat at home?</p>
<p>On the Morocco front, I think we’ll be visiting Chefchaouen in the Rif Mountains, as well as Casablanca and Rabat. We thought of fitting Fez in too, but it seemed too rushed.</p>
<p>“Do they buy it in stores to eat at home?” The low fat content of the type of “g-word” made at Vivoli and other classic shops affects the way it can or can not be stored. They make it fresh everyday since ice crystals formed in a freezer ruin the consistency. The same thing happens if you have ever tried to freeze fresh frozen custard.</p>
<p>Won’t you please answer my questions? It’s not often I come across one who has lived in Florence, as I have. Please…with an extra dollop of zuppa inglese…hmmm?</p>
<p>Bethie vt :One of my favorite things in Florence during Christmas are the roasted chestnuts sold in the streets. The smell is so seductive and lovely. Grab yourself a bag and go over to Santa Marie dei Fiori (the Duomo) where you will probably find real shepherds playing flutes or bag pipes for money. The same day, you might want to go to the church of Santa Trinita and see the Ghirlandaio frescoes and panel paintings. Same shepherds (painted 475 years ago)</p>
<p>That sounds lovely! One of my strongest memories from my first trip to India, also at Chrismas time, was the smell of chestnuts roasting in the streets.</p>
<p>Something about your post reminded me that Portrait of a Lady was partly set in Florence. Can’t wait to reread. I also took Under the Tuscan Sun out of the library. I’ve seen the movie but not read the book. I noticed that she talks about Christmas there and some recipes made from chestnuts.</p>
<p>Well, there is always E. M. Forster’s “A Room with a View” as well! I developed a real love of chestnuts in Italy. I might stuff my Christmas turkey with chestnuts and sausage this year. Thanks for rekindling my fond memories. I know that I kept warning you about the cold weather, but I’m sure if you are full of energy and with loved ones you will manage to keep warm enough.
I have not been back for the last two years and the last time was to set my D up in her apartment for the summer(and I would pick winter in Florence any time over summer). I am out of touch as far as things like restaurants go, since we shopped and made our own food. If anything comes to mind, I will PM you.</p>
<p>***archiemom mentioned the slowfood website—and that is certainly your best source for dining in the region.</p>
<p>Tiredofsnow–The “g” word would have come up anyway, as would the reference to pigs, that might offend <em>some</em>, but delighted me. Where would we be without them?!</p>
<p>Speaking of such things—on certain days you will still find a truck in the Piazza across from
Santa Maria del Carmine selling porchetta (rosemary roasted pork) sandwiches. ooooo boy</p>
<p>DD just reminded me that if the truck is not in the piazza, just go to Nebrone in the Mercato Centrale (Central Market) friendly communal tables and pork sandwiches for 4 Euro. A nice little lunch after you go to visit the church of San Lorenzo and the Medici Tombs.</p>
<p>While you are at Santa Maria del Carmine, go inside to see the Masaccio fresoes in the Brancacci Chapel – a must see! He was an innovator of the early Renaissance, helping art evolve from the flat, lifeless styles of the Byzantine and medieval periods, into one of perspective, modeling, realistic shading, composition and more accurate portaiture. In short, he was one of the great masters! Or did you know that?</p>
<p>You’re welcome. While everyday things like hotels, cafes, restaurants and amusements have changed considerably since I left Florence in 1972, at least its art offerings remain somewhat the same, and I am happy to share what little I know of it.</p>