<p>Bought my first new car in 20 year. This is not about that. Today I found some glue-on spots on my hood and few other places. They could not be washed off with soap. The spots on the glass came right off with iso alcohol. But I need expert opinion on how to lift these gunks on the body. They have the consistency of epoxy glue, clear stuff but sticks. Heat did not help as I tried in vain to remove the spots after it had just parked and the hood warm.</p>
<p>I don’t think I want to take it off with Alcohol. Please help !</p>
<p>Cal_dad - I’m sure there’s a product that will take care of this, but I don’t know what that is. Find a paint-and-bodywork supply shop and ask their advice.</p>
<p>Open the door and try the ISO (or better yet denatured) alcohol on a painted finished area on the door edge, near the door latch mechanism. If it harms the finish there, then don’t try it elsewhere.</p>
<p>If it doesn’t harm the finish, then try it on a small spot of the glue(?), in an inconspicous spot if possible.</p>
<p>If it works without harm, you’re good to go. If not, try the different types of removers (bug & tar, adhesive remover, goof-off) on the door edge. Without knowing the substance, you’ll have to guess at the solvent via trial and error. The ones I’ve mentioned are blends of various solvents designed for specific or wide range applications.</p>
<p>Is it glue, or glue-like? Does it appear malicious, or did you happen to park near an area where construction, spraying, or other activity was going on? Just curious as to how it got there. Are you sure it isn’t tree sap?</p>
<p>You could go to your local auto parts store and try Bug and Tar remover. If that doesn’t work, you could try some sort of Glue-be-gone (it usually works very well on glue) but as another poster stated, make sure you try any non-automotive product in an inconspicuous area first to make sure it won’t harm the paint. </p>
<p>Whenever I’ve purchased a new car I inspect it ‘very’ carefully before accepting delivery. This especially includes the paint on every panel for any flaws at all. Be sure to inspect after any prep the dealer might do because they can mess up the finish and never believe them when they say they can ‘buff it out later’. The last car I purchased I rejected and they had to bring out another identical one but minus the paint flaws.</p>
<p>The article talked about tree sap a lot and as a matter of fact I have parked under some tall tree in my company parking last few weeks due to hot weather. </p>
<p>Anyone have experience with this ? They are clear hard epoxy glue like spots. </p>
<p>I have WD40, common house-hold rubbing isopropyl alcohol 70%, mineral oil,
motor oil, which should I try first ? Of course I can go out and buy from autostore some tar removal (not sure that works ).</p>
<p>I suggest starting with something designed for the purpose like the bug and tar remover. Some other products not designed for it (like brake fluid) can quickly remove the paint itself.</p>
<p>I’d first try the WD-40, then the ISO (actually, the ISO should remove any WD-40 residue). Motor oil and mineral oil should have little value as solvents.</p>
<p>Beyond that, I’d go with bug and tar, and then glue be gone, or goof off.</p>
<p>Yes. When I was a teenager, my family’s cars were parked in our driveway under pine trees. They would frequently get spots of pine tree sap, which hardened just like your description. We removed the tree sap with ether (this was in the '60s–I wouldn’t recommend using ether today.) As far as I know, it never damaged the paint finish.</p>
<p>My husband is the car person in the family, but I would suggest you see about getting the car detailed and then waxed. If you find the right remover and do it yourself, you still might want to wax the area as the remover may remove some of the finish.</p>
<p>After considering all the options I got it off using Windex and afterward I couldnt tell the difference unless I tilt my head and look at it microscopically I could see some vague outline where the sap was. If nobody told you it will be impossible to tell. I am 99.9990% satisfied. A stronger solvent like iso 70% alcohol will dissolve all traces but it might be bit too strong, so I used the milder approach first. </p>
<p><< The Rescue Plan >></p>
<p>If this happens to you, cut old tshirt in piece, soak the piece in windex and put over spot. wait 10 sec, resoak if necessary, then gently rub it off, I find using circular motion best. Go to different spot on the cloth for 2nd rinse with new windex. That’s it. After all spots are removed, hose off your car. At this point itsa tossup betwn waxing immediately or wait until your next wax project. Because my car had only 5 sap spots, I left for next complete wax project.</p>
<p>NOTE: guys at the detail shop just use iso alchol or even nail polish remover, you never even know they did, so I was told.</p>
<p>POST MORTUM discussion:</p>
<p>Windex works but requires moderate rubbing effort. For materials science chemists here and car finish experts, which is a better choice that best protect your car finish long-term: </p>
<p>A. Windew - mild solvent but require hard rubbing
B. 70% Iso rubbing alchol - comes off instantly with little effort but wouldnt
it be too strong and takes off the clear coat too ?<br>
C. Of course you can argue that the rigorous rubbing takes off the clear coat too ?</p>