So for my sixtieth birthday I have decided that I’m finally getting to Paris–yay! We will have about two weeks, so at least a week in Paris, a few days in nearby countryside --we discovered Honfleur and wine country around it when reading online, and that looks beautiful and close. And probably a couple days in London at the end (I’ve been there a bit, so don’t need to see everything, just want to reconnect.)
So, would love comments by Paris experts–what’s most important to see, do. Any suggestions of where to stay (even which sections of the city are most convenient). Tips, suggestions of any kind welcome. We have a flexible budget but are not high-end people. Interested in experiences more than things.
Secondarily–if you’ve been to Honfleur–any advice, comments.
Thirdly–we have been planning to go in July–heard Paris shuts down in August. However, something just came up for my H that would be a good opportunity but would take up all of July. He’s probably not going to do it, but curious if moving to August would be not as good as July.
TIA for any comments, suggestions, etc on any of this.
Ah Paris!!! For a week? What are your preferences? Paris can be different things to different people (like London). If you can hint as to how you like to spend time - museums, shopping, explorer or prefer to be guided, performances, etc. I might have some ideas for you!
There are a number of Paris threads on CC. All good suggestions as I recall the posts. There are so many different ways people enjoy the city, the posts reflect that. Another source to begin to get a feel is Tripadvisor which has a very active Paris discussion forum Board.
For truly amazing places to stay at different price ranges, , look into Sawday’s: https://www.sawdays.co.uk Listings are for the UK, France and Spain.
I’ve never used them, just drooled…but recommended them to a neighbor last year who found great B&Bs in France and Spain. Sawdays lists inns, hotels, cottages, B&Bs, castles, caravans, and treehouses…all seemingly to die for! They don’t just list…they inspect and vet every one of these places before including them. Good luck! Next trip I make over the pond I will surely use them myself!
I was fortunate to be able to spend time in a small town in France, the difference between the last week in July and the first week in August was stunning. The small village was suddenly filled with people and cars. I had always heard Paris shut down in August, but I had not realized what that meant in reality.
It’s true about August. The earlier you go the better.
We always stay in Airbnb in Paris, very convenient. The best neighborhoods are of course the most expensive, but we stayed near Place de Vosges for a reasonable price. The Left Bank is even better.
As far as I can remember, Honfleur is nice but not really special. But the whole coast is very beautiful. Depends on what you like to do.
@yucca10 --my H found Honfleur because we wanted to be nearby Paris to cut down travel time. It looks pretty because of river, seacoast, marshlands, etc. But open to other ideas. Since the trip isn’t that long, I thought staying in the northern part of the country would be simpler than, say, going to Provence
As far as interests–definitely not shopping. Like to walk around, explore, eat and drink (doesn’t have to be fancy), people-watch, see some art. probably not concerts and theater for this trip, though who knows?
For out in country–hiking, possibly biking, scenery (big fan of coasts and cliffs, etc.), possibly a winery.
If anyone has a favorite bistro or off-the-beaten track, anything, I’m interested in hearing it. Can figure out the big stuff with guidebooks, but I know CC’ers are experts on the particulars.
Paris doesn’t shut down in August. Some smaller restaurants and shops will probably be closed, but all the usual tourist attractions will be open. If you’ve never been, you won’t know the difference.
My go-to for Paris restaurants is a blog, search on John Talbott and Paris.
If you use AirBnB or another listing service for apartments in Paris, make certain there is a registration number. Without the number it is an illegal rental and you may find yourself without lodging.
I’ll be back in Paris for 5 days this summer as part of a retirement celebratory trip. I can’t wait.
@garland - what a wonderful trip. I’d try to aim for July. We went to Paris in August one year and it was hot and crowded with tourist from other parts of Europe.
A few years ago my H and I did a great trip that included Paris and a car trip to the Loire Valley and Normandy. It was early May so pretty empty. In the Normandy area we stayed in Bayeux which was lovely. We took a day trip to the D Day beaches with a tour company. We also did a stop at the Peace Museum in Caan. In Bayeux they also have the Bayeux tapestry that is amazing. We next drove to Honfleur. Contrary to another poster I loved Honfleur. We stayed in a small in. That was originally a school house. It was quaint and walkable to the port. We did a day driving trip through the countryside and went to a Calvados tasting room. Honfleur is a driving nightmare. It’s best to park the car and not take it out. We left Honfleur in the morning and stopped in Giverny to see Monet garden before driving to the airport in Paris and returning our rental car. We spent the night in an airport hotel since we had an early flight home.
One tip I learned here on CC is to not pick up our car rental in Paris. We had taken the train from Amsterdam and had 4 nights in a Paris hotel (Villa Madame). We took a train to Tours and picked up our car rental there.
I can look up the two places we stayed in Bayeux and Honfleur if your interested.
OK! Glad to see you are a walker. That’s my favorite activity in Paris. I generally start with the idea of one of the “majors” that I want to see. You are quite right, info on the obvious biggies is easy to find. I use a tourist map that has the various sites and metro stops and make a general plan such as start with the museum or whatever I’m targeting, then look for other interesting sites close by. I’ve explored any number of areas in this manner - stumbled on all sorts of little parks, walked into numerous churches (generally all are open around 10 AM and are free) and found other little museums and spots of personal interest. I have never wandered into an area where I didn’t feel comfortable, unlike wandering in US cities. If this approach appeals to you, there are also number of walking itineraries on-line. This website looked good to me, I think I’ve been along all their recommended routes and they higlight churches and museums in the different arondissements: http://www.paris-walking-tours.com/walkingtours.html
I should admit that I am not good with following the planned routes step by step. I inevitably make a wrong turning and end up studying my map or guidebook rather than enjoying the surroundings. So, I’ve given up on following detailed instructions and just get myself from point to point.
Any of the little cafes are terrific for an aperitif or espresso. My last trip was with a girlfriend - we indulged in any number of late afternoon Kir breaks. Our “theme” for that trip was literary - we hunted up all the 1920s hot spots for Hemingway, Stein and the American expats, did a Victor Hugo day, hunted up some of the Proust sites, etc. We have both been to Paris numerous times (she lived there) - this approach gave us a new way to see things.
My personal favorite areas are the 1st and 6th arondissement for hotel. I’ve not used Air BnB. You might want to start checking for hotels soon. Paris does fill up. I wasn’t able to get the spot I wanted last trip, even though I tried booking in May for a September (high season) trip. You can book cancel-able rates, then change your mind if necessary.
My first trip to Paris included part of August. That is ancient history now, but I don’t remember any difficulty with seeing everything we wanted to see. As was said above, I’m sure small places close and perhaps some restaurants, but you may not even notice. Caveat - My August experience was long ago. I would believe anyone who has had more recent experience with August. Things can and do change significantly. For instance - many waiters will speak some English now!!!
Have fun planning. I really think you can’t go wrong!
Not trying to dissuade you from Honfleur (I’ve not been there). Did you consider the Loire Valley? There are all the biggest castles which will be crowded, but Hubby and I have done tours of smaller places that are not over-run. We also spent some time on the Brittany and Normandy Coasts between St Malo and Mont St Michele. Lots of little places to explore. You’ve probably considered this, but thought I’d mention. I’m envious - can you guess?
We did Paris. Rented a “flat”. We went in Aug and it is still very busy. Book all your sights before you go. Catacombs was great. The Eiffel tower sells out. Even with tickets plan on two hours in line. We did Paris, Normandy, Mount St. Michel and of course Disney. Don’t rent a car in Paris. Take the train. Keep your train stubs as they randomly check that you bought one. Without the stub, you will be fined. We watched it happen. Kept ours in a zip lock bag as they are very very tiny. If you go out in the country, it is very pretty. Watch out for electronic speed traps. Lucky us we got a ticket 3 months later when we were home. I still can’t pay it. It wont let me. We were doing the same speed as everyone else. I was told to wait for the next one and pay it then but if it takes so long to get here it will again be too late to pay. Have a great time. My DD has done two French exchanges and has loved every minute. Enjoy the street café. Just keep in mind they do not have quick dinners even to get the check can be over an hour. They enjoy and don’t rush like us in the Northeast.
Is there any way you can push to September or October. Weather is better, less crowds and better prices.
Loire Valley, Loire Valley, Loire Valley
For an incredible trip from Paris. Small villages, stunning scenery and huge castles around every corner. You can stay in romantic chateau hotels very reasonable off season but its crowded in the summer
Also, for a week in Paris rent a beautiful apartment. Then you can enjoy the outdoor markets, bring back goodies and have your breakfast in the apartment. Drink your coffee whenever you want and enjoy a glass of wine and snacks on your little balcony for half the cost
Paris Perfect has beautiful little apartments with Eiffel Tower views. Worthy of your 60th birthday
Just wanted to add that of course most tourist places are open in August, but I think it’s much more fun when there are more locals on the street than tourists and all the small stores are open.
There are lots of beautiful walks on the coast and cliffs, like Etretat where Monet painted.
For other sights, you can consult an “official” list of the most beautiful small towns in France: http://www.les-plus-beaux-villages-de-france.org/en/the-most-beautiful-villages-of-france. Mt Saint-Michel is overrun by tourists but still very impressive. Rouen is also nice to visit on your way north.
Check out Paris Greeters, they offer free customized walking tours by volunteers, very nice.
I haven’t been to Honfleur, but checking out the pictures it still looks remarkably like the painting’s by Monet’s teacher Boudin.
Many years ago, my parents rented an old chateau in the village of Auvers which I’d guess is about 70 miles to the west of Honfleur. We had a fabulous time. Things that I still remember are the Bayeaux Tapestry, the Normandy Beaches (my favorite thing in that area was the Point Du Hoc which was actually a Canadian landing site), the village of Villeneuve still makes traditional copper pots. On a later trip my brother and his wife went to hear Gregorian chants go at the Abbaye Saint-Wandrille and said it was wonderful. Further a field, but more than worth it, even overrun with tourists, is Mont Saint-Michelle. I spent a wonderful day pretending to be Monet while painting the famous cliffs at Etretat, my brother and his wife did the cliff walk. The coolest thing about the Etratat beach is that all the rocks on the beach (and it’s rocks not sand) are geodes.
I’d do a google search for the Paris threads, but just have a glace (sorbet) at Berthillon’s on the Isle St. Louis, I promise you, you won’t regret it. My favorite flavor is pear.
So much good suggestions! I will take some time to explore and research. I know I need to nail down reservations soon, so this is all very helpful. And I’ll search the other Paris threads too.
Etretat looks amazing, and I love all things Monet so Ill look over for that. And will also look into Loire Valley, as that i getting rave reviews. And i will especially look for Berthillons! That sounds divine.
There is a small chateau b&b called Domaine de Bidauderes near Vouvray in the Loire Valley. I don’t know their high season pricing but it’s a lovely place with reasonable rates. Breakfast included and good parking available.
Look into staying in Giverney or the area, where Monet has his house. Train from St. Germaine to Vernon. You can rent a car in many small towns with a train station and take off from there, returning to a small town, and avoiding cities. St. Malo is supposed to be lovely. I met friends in Vernon years ago, who had a rental car. We stayed in a palace in the nearby countryside and it was lovely, though not spectacular, with rolling hills, and we biked along the river.
Question for those who’ve done it recently: Did you rent an automatic from a smaller location???
I am not a practiced manual driver. Could manage in an emergency, but don’t want to be forced into it. I have only rented cars from larger cities, generally at airports, to insure that if an automatic isn’t available as reserved there are other agencies steps away. More expensive and not always the way I’d like to do things, but…
OP said she’d be getting a car, so I hope my question isn’t too much off-topic! Please excuse me if it is.
