Situation and Site
Pierce Lewis, perhaps its most knowledgeable scholar, describes New Orleans as the “inevitable city on an impossible site.” His reasons for saying so were as obvious to early explorers as to modern geographers and geologists. A glance at the map of North America reveals that the continent’s interior is drained by a single river system–the Mississippi. From the Great Lakes to the Gulf of Mexico, from the Rockies to the Appalachians, the Mississippi with its vast network of tributaries, particularly the Ohio and Missouri Rivers, provides a natural waterway system for moving people and goods across the midcontinent of North America and down the Mississippi to its outlet on the Gulf.</p>
<p>Another glance at the North American map reveals that there should be a city at the mouth of so splendid a transportation system. Any city so strategically situated could control the trade between the vast interior of North America and the rest of the world; and a city in so strange a situation might even determine the political future of North America. These facts were as obvious to seventeenth century French explorers as they were to Thomas Jefferson, who said of New Orleans: “There is one spot on the globe, the possessor of which is our natural and habitual enemy. It is New Orleans.”</p>
<p>The French had established themselves in the norther part of North America (Canada) in the mid-seventeenth century by securing control of the St. Lawrence and the Great Lakes. Paris sought to limit the English to the eastern coast of the continent by claiming the Mississippi and its tributaries, thereby gaining control of the interior of North America. The key to securing the Mississippi was to control access to its mouth on the Gulf of Mexico, but the French explorers discovered there was a problem. From the mouth of the Mississippi to a point about 200 miles upstream (Baton Rouge), there was no ground high enough to provide a natural site for a city. While the great river demanded a splendid port city, it seemed to provide no place for one.
The Problem
The problem of finding a site for the “inevitable city” has to do with the nature of the lower Mississippi itself. The Mississippi is unusual for North American rivers in that it has a large delta and is not embayed, i.e., the sea does not enter and flood the river’s mouth. Rivers that are embayed provide natural sites for cities. London, New York, Hamburg, Quebec City are all located at a narrow inland neck of an estuary, the first site where ships could go no further and where land traffic could cross the river.</p>
<p>The Mississippi, however, lacks any such well defined head of navigation before Minneapolis; and south of Cairo, Illinois, the Mississippi is almost uniformly wide, with no one spot easier to cross than any other. Moreover, the river is most shallow and treacherous at the sandbars crossing its mouth in the Gulf of Mexico. Where the river meets the gulf is nothing but marsh and watery muck, a desolate scene that extends so far out into the gulf, it created more difficulties for both seagoing and coastal vessels. With no distinguishing features except mud banks and salt marsh tufts, the river’s several mouths and labyrinth of bayous made the three true entrances difficult to find. Moreover, with no way to enter, save through one of the mouths, an with no way to cross the river upstream, coastal ships had to leave the sheltered coastal waterways and enter the Gulf to round the delta.</p>
<p>Early mariners were forced, then, to ask three basic questions as to where their vessels could go and where a city could be located. The basic questions were: Was there a way for deep-water vessels to reach the river other than by entering its mouth far out in the Gulf? Was there a sheltered way through the delta for coastal vessels to avoid the open waters of the Gulf? Was there a place in the delta’s featureless slimy muck where goods could be unloaded and stored without risk of frequent flooding?</p>
<p>The answer to each question, the French found, was “yes,” but a tentative yes. There was a site for a city, but there were numerous problems associated with it. The site where New Orleans would be founded and eventually flourish can best be described as “wretched.” The geologists Kolb and Van Topik describe it as “a land between earth and sea, belonging to neither and alternately claimed by both.” The Mississippi’s delta is noted not only for its swampy, geologic terrain, but also for its difficult environment. The delta is a region prone to excessive heat, annual floods, heavy rain, hurricanes, mosquitoes and disease. The delta environment has shoe-horned New Orleans into a constricted site and forced the city into strange shapes and curious, even eccentric internal patterns of growth. The environment, like the city’s personality, is an off-spring of the Mississippi River and a direct result of its behavior in its lower course over the last several thousand years. Like the city it spawned and nourishes, the Mississippi is unusual, not just for its size and delta, but for other eccentricities.