<p>D has a car tentatively picked out. Its cheap, it has service records showing its in excellent running condition. If it only runs for a year, that’s okay. I’m not clear on how imperative it is to buy the Carfax report. Of course if it showed it has spent the last year in New Orleans, we might think twice, but mostly we just need the ability to get it registered without problems. If it were a salvage title, would that be due to theft, or a major accident, or? How would that change the ability to get it registered? We’re in CA, if it matters.</p>
<p>They could require a safety inspection and it will hurt the resale value. We had a Honda that was hit in the back and fixed just fine but got stuck with a salvage title because the repairs exceeded the value of the car according to the insurance company. As we had the car from new and knew the exact condition we elected to buy it from the insurance co and have it fixed. Several trouble-free years later we wanted a new car but the dealer would not even take it in trade. We sold it privately with full disclosure for about $4000 but many would not even look at it due to the title.</p>
<p>sushi,
Please be careful with that car if it spent recent time in N.O. There were many reports of cars which had been underwater in N.O. being dried out and shipped north. They have had numerous problems because of the water damage which may not be evident to the untrained eye.</p>
<p>the poster didn’t say it spent time in NO… just that would be cautious if it had.</p>
<p>fendergirl,
Thanks for pointing that out. My “skimming” skills ain’t what they used to be!</p>
<p>I’d get the CarFax report. It’s basically the only way you can make a determination if it will even run for a year. The report will tell you why it’s a salvage title. And it will tell you everything else that the seller may not disclose.</p>
<p>Re: salvage title</p>
<p>As Barrons pointed out, insurance companies will “total” a car based upon its market value vs. repair cost. The older a car, the easier it is to write it off. Since you’re asking about doing a Carfax check, it sounds like you found the car at a lot rather than through a private seller. </p>
<p>In a strange way, a salvage title is good. It means that the seller didn’t try to “launder” the title by running it through out-of-state auction companies. The big question is how extensive was the damage. A Carfax report will verify the vehicle’s title, mileage and other information. This buys you peace of mind if the vehicle is just a used car with a standard title. Since you know the car has a salvage title, there’s not a great deal of value getting the report (except for verifying mileage, date of original sale and if it was a fleet vehicle). </p>
<p>You need to have the car checked out by a body shop. They can tell you how extensive the repairs were, the kind of replacement parts used and the quality of the workmanship. Re-builders have access to a lot of non-OEM body panels and parts made in China, Taiwan and South Korea. Some of these parts meet After-market Parts Association standards and some do not. If the vehicle was in a front or rear collision, verify that the bumpers were replaced with DOT approved impact absorbing units and not just “skins”. Check for frame damage. Remember, re-builders, to turn a profit, need to keep costs down. They are not in business to return a vehicle to off the showroom floor new… </p>
<p>That said, if the damage wasn’t too extensive, re-builders may use donor parts from other totaled cars. Hoods, doors and other body panels can be taken off a donor car and used on a “repaired” vehicle. The only way to know is to have a body shop inspect the car. </p>
<p>And once you buy a salvaged car, the only way to get your money’s worth from it is to drive it until it dies.</p>
<p>I actually don’t know yet if the title is “clean” or salvage. This is a private seller through craigslist and most sellers list it in the ad if the title is salvage, so I’m guessing its probably okay. The seller seems like a good person, if maybe a bit clueless about selling a car (i.e. he didn’t know he has to have the car smogged within the last 90 days in order for us to be able to transfer title) and I got the impression maybe he didn’t know what I was talking about when I asked for the VIN number to buy a Carfax report. I’ll bring my laptop when we check out the car and will get the VIN and buy a Carfax report right then, methinks. BUT, it sounds like even if it were a salvage title, it won’t hamper us getting it registered? We may just have to get some kind of safety inspection first? Its cheap enough that I’m not worried about being able to resell it. I just don’t want to have problems registering it and insuring it.</p>
<p>Call your state’s DMV and ask if you can register a salvage title. Or they may have it on their website. Then call your insurance agent & ask. These are simple questions that they’ve dealt with before. (I’ve had to ask similar ones.)</p>
<p>If this is just a cheap used car, then, by all means, get a CarFax report and verify the original date and place of sale and the mileage (if the car has been sold by a series of owners). It sounds like this is an out-of-state car that may not meet California’s CAB standards. It could be the present owner just moved to California with a 49 State smog legal car… </p>
<p>Be aware that there are scammers out there. Sometimes you’ll see ads from “motivated sellers” or “students” who are “moving” and need to sell their cars quickly and really cheap. The cars may look OK cosmetically, but may have serious mechanical problems. Or, some used car dealers have been known to off load slow inventory by hiring people to “front” as a private seller. People have their guard up going to a used car lot, but a private seller seems to generate a bit more confidence and trust. Try to inspect the car at the seller’s home and not some strip mall parking lot. Check the registration and seller’s address on the title to see if everything is legit…</p>
<p>You can go to various auto websites and do a search on the car in question to see what the market prices are in your area. If the seller’s price is much lower than the average selling price, it could be a warning sign that something is wrong. I wouldn’t put too much stock in “nice”. There aren’t too many belligerent sellers in the marketplace. </p>
<p>Arrange to have the car inspected at a garage. If the seller balks, walk away.</p>
<p>You shouldn’t have a problem registering a salvaged titled car, but banks and credit unions will not loan money for the purchase of one. Since this will likely be a cash transaction with no stings attached, be careful.</p>
<p>Good luck!</p>
<p>I think the inspection idea is great for any car over $1,500 or so. It should cost $100-$200 depending on how detailed.</p>
<p>In our state, you can only get liability insurance for a car with a salvage title. We know because we tried to get comprehensive coverage for a salvage car we were thinking of buying for our S and our insurer said “no way”. We didn’t buy the car. It’s a good thing since he managed to wreck the car we ended up buying and we really needed the insurance to pay for the repairs.</p>