<p>Fortunately, I was recently given a lovely collection of silver platters and bowls. </p>
<p>Unfortunately, they are very very tarnished. </p>
<p>What is the best/easiest/least expensive way to remove the tarnish?</p>
<p>I’d start with a strong commercially available tarnish remover such as Colonel Braasy. If there are little nooks and crannies that are hard to get into, you can try this: heat water in a saucepan almost to boiling. Put in a crumpled sheet of aluminum foil. Add quarter cup of baking soda. Put in silver until it’s covered and remove when the water is dirty. If you have large platters and bowls you can still do this but you have to adjust the ratio of ingredients. </p>
<p>I’ve used both these methods on the same piece if it’s really badly tarnished, and was happy with the results.</p>
<p>But sometimes leaving the tarnish in the nooks and crannies adds to the piece’s charm. It shows that it has patina and age.</p>
<p>I use Wright’s Silver Cream, but it’s hard to find.</p>
<p>I am using the toothpaste. This way I ccan control, what tarnish to save (because it was there for design purpose) and which to remove.</p>
<p>I use both hayden’s method and Wright’s Silver Cream</p>
<p>I also use Wright’s silver cream. I can get it at my local grocery store.</p>
<p>Ditto on the Wrights. I get mine at the grocery store, also.</p>
<p>I agree re: Wrights for routine tarnish. A really dark black piece of sterling often seems to beyond Wrights, at least for me.</p>
<p>I’ve had success with a metal polish called Wenol.</p>
<p>A friend recommended Hagerty silver polish. Any thoughts as what is better Hagerty, Wright’s Silver Cream or Wenol. I dread all the rubbing/elbow grease. </p>
<p>Will any of these product help with the polishing/scrubbing?</p>
<p>Regarding toothpaste, it is effective…but don’t use them for old silver coins if you care about their collectability/condition. </p>
<p>Using this method would be the equivalent of subjecting them to extensive circulation which will substantially reduce their collectibility among coin collectors and thus, substantially reduce the price they could command. </p>
<p>Moreover, some tarnish…a.k.a. “toning” could actually enhance the value of old silver coins. </p>
<p>Some for the patina on old copper/bronze coins or art objects. Carefully assess the collectability of the items to be polished and the way their values are evaluated before polishing them.</p>
<p>No silver coins here, just bowls and platters, but thanks for the tip.</p>
<p>Honestly, if you start with the aluminum foil method hayden suggested, that will go a long way towards getting the big stuff off. You can then finish it with a cream polish if you need to. I actually have a special metal plate for the purpose, which is used with washing soda and very hot water, but hayden’s suggestion is much cheaper. I think that people who deal with antique silver often use it because it doesn’t rub away the silver or scratch it. (I would never use toothpaste, for fear of abrading the surface.)</p>
<p>Let us know how it works. I’ve never tried it myself.</p>
<p>I saw the aluminum foil method on youtube (real simple). I have some very large pieces, so I guess I will just get some exercise.</p>
<p>You don’t have to immerse the entire piece at once. First one side, then the other, works fine. I do it in the sink, not a saucepan.</p>
<p>Wright’s is the best IMHO. You can buy it at most grocery stores. Since the company was sold to Weiman a few years ago they have raised the price a bit. I used to by it for $1.99 on sale at the grocery. Now, it is usually double. Still cheaper than Hagerty’s though and I think better overall polish.</p>