Substitutes for dying Oleander bushes??

<p>The oleander bushes in southern California are being hit by some kind of bacterial disease brought in by a bug (sharpshooter) and are dying all over the place. I’ve had several die and I wouldn’t be surprised if the remaining ones will die in the next couple of years. This is a real shame because these evergreen bushes are very colorful, don’t use much water, provide excellent visual and noise masking, and are low maintenance. It’s also going to cost the state of California millions of dollars to pull out and replace with something.</p>

<p>My question - do you know any recommended plants with similar characteristics to replace an oleander?</p>

<p>I like ceanothus, I was just contemplating one * today*
otherwise known as california lilac
[Native</a> plants for a wildlife friendly landscape for butterfly and bird alike. Plant natives in your California Garden!](<a href=“http://www.laspilitas.com/]Native”>http://www.laspilitas.com/)</p>

<p>Nooooo, not the oleander bushes!!! Oh, this is so sad. Monsanto, where are you? </p>

<p>Sorry, I can’t help you with any suggestions - here in WA, a hedge of douglas firs is as good as it gets. I tried to grow some plants that were marginally cold-resistant, and they all went kaput this winter despite my efforts to keep them protected from the elements. :(</p>

<p>don’t blame yourself- it was a nasty winter- we even had snow yesterday on orcas island.
But are you sure they croaked? some of my things that normally bloom earlier are still getting leaves- everything is very slow ( and I don’t blame them- they have to be sure it is safe!)</p>

<p>We had something similar happen to our myoporum bushes 2 years ago. We had a 20 yr old hedge around our property. We started it with 4 inch pots and it had grown in thick and tall. We had just trimmed the whole thing back when they became infected. The infection was on the new growth. Unfortunately for our hedge we had little old growth left. It left our property very exposed. We could not decide what to do and left it. It is finally looking halfway decent. Many people use Oleander for the same purpose. I have not noticed the demise of local oleander but of course I will now look.
I would go to a local nursery and ask what they suggest. Since the problem is widespread they should have some information.</p>

<p>I second the Ceanothis suggestion. It does really well here in the OC, comes in ground cover form, as well as bush form, attracts honeybees, smells really nice and is a non-invasive native.</p>

<p>Also, California Bay Laurel might be an option. You can use it as a hedge too.</p>

<p>I’d suggest you contact the Department of Tropical Agriculture in Hawaii. They might have some ideas as oleander is very popular in HI as well. Their climate is fairly similar to southern CA.</p>

<p>Echoing emeraldkity - use California natives! They are perfect for the local soil, water, and wildlife.</p>

<p>Some possibilities besides the ceanothus already mentioned:

  • Coffeeberry (Rhamnus)
  • Western elderberry (Sambucus mexicana)
  • Pacific wax myrtle (myrica californica)
  • Coast silk-tassel (garrya elliptica)
  • Manzanita (Arctostaphylos - there are many tall versions)
  • Toyon (Heteromeles arbutifolia)</p>

<p>The elderberry is very fast-growing. I planted some small plants two years ago that are now about 12 feet tall. They are deciduous, which you might not want, but they attract lots of insects and birds, both from the large white flowers in the spring/summer and blue berries in late summer/fall.</p>

<p>The others are all evergreen. Among ceanothus, Ray Hartman is one that grows tall and fast. Manzanitas are beautiful but tend not to grow very fast; they flower in the winter months and attract hummingbirds. Coffeeberry has very attractive foliage but doesn’t have flowers. Toyon has red berries in the winter. Coast silk-tassel has long catkins and good-looking foliage.</p>

<p>Many California natives not only don’t need summer water, but don’t like it after they’re established. You do have to water in the summer for the first couple of years.</p>

<p>I’m assuming your oleander is in a sunny location. If not, there are lots more possibilities for shade.</p>

<p>When I was growing up we would get flocks of cedar waxwings eating the toyon berries. They were really gorgeous. Also the robins would get drunk on them and stumble around, very entertaining (keep the cat inside). The ceanothus are beautiful too. Plant a selection of shrubs and in a few years you’ll wonder why you ever bothered with the oleanders.</p>

<p>One thing about Oleander is that it is VERY poisonous–the leaves, branches, sap and flowers. Folks have used the sticks to roast marshmellows/hotdogs and died. Hopefully whatever you use to replace it will less poisonous.</p>

<p>The idea of planting CA native plants that require little water and grow well is an excellent one.</p>

<p>Dumb gardening question, can you grow camellias in So CA? Do they require too much water? How about rosemary, or do you need something taller/person height?</p>

<p>Ceanothus are sometimes described as “short-lived” (10 years). All of mine are sort of low and creeping. I’ve had a few die and leave really big patches (spread 6 feet or more) but they were great while the lasted.</p>

<p>How about Photinia? Or Abelia Grandiflora? They seem to alternate with Oleander around here, but I’m in N. Cal.</p>

<p><a href=“http://images.google.com/images?client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&hl=en&q=photinia&btnG=Search+Images&gbv=2&aq=f&oq=[/url]”>http://images.google.com/images?client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla%3Aen-US%3Aofficial&hl=en&q=photinia&btnG=Search+Images&gbv=2&aq=f&oq=&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/p&gt;

<p>Las Pilitas says that ceanothus should live 20-25 years and can live for 30 years or more. They say that the short-lived idea is a myth and is mostly due to overwatering. I don’t know… I’m about to plant a Ray Hartman ceanothus but I haven’t grown them myself yet.</p>

<p>Thanks for all the responses. </p>

<p>A bit more info - apparently this is most prevalent in Southern California in areas that don’t normally freeze and hence the disease is more rampany. There also is apparently no cure for this so Monsanto is no help so far but this is an opportunity for them if they’re reading this thread. Also, it seems that this disease is fairly limited to Olys so replacing them with something else in the same spot will likely work okay. This disease will literally change the landscape in neoghborhoods and along freeways in southern Cal unless someone comes up with a solution.</p>

<p>My Olys are in a sunny area, provide nice screening from the road, and I’m not concerned about the poisonous aspects since I don’t eat them and they’re removed from where the dog is and I don’t have a horse.</p>

<p>I planted a couple of new avocado trees in that area that will eventually provide more screening but it’ll take another few years before they get big enough and even then I’d like to have something up by the street.</p>

<p>The Olys are ideal for the function since they’re tall (8-10 feet or so), are all filled in, and don’t take much of our expensive water. But, I’ve already lost some as have neighbors around here and I have no doubt that the rest will go eventually. This is why I’d like to replace them with something with very close characteristics.</p>

<p>Thanks again for all these suggestions - I’ll now research them all and see what I ought to do.</p>

<p>I like to do Google image searches using the plant’s Latin name to see what it looks like in different stages and places.</p>

<p>Good sites to learn about native plants: Las Pilitas, Yerba Buena Nursery, Theodore Payne. All of these have both pictures and descriptions of lots of plants.</p>

<p>How about Bougainvillea plant?

</p>

<p>[Bougainvillea</a> - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia](<a href=“http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bougainvillea]Bougainvillea”>Bougainvillea - Wikipedia)</p>

<p>^^ We have several of those in different spots but its form isn’t quite like the Oly. It’s a thought though.</p>

<p>I replaces ours with bouganvilla. It’s easy to take care of, once established, I love the way it looks, and it serves the screening purpose. But it wouldn’t get that high without supports. You could try Italian Cypress trees, my dad has them along one side of the property…they don’t take much water, good screening, take little upkeep. But they don’t flower and might create too much shade for the avocados. I’d call the Fullerton Aborethum or the one at UCI and ask for suggestions. I’ve bought plants at both locations with great success.</p>

<p>I didn’t know you could kill an Oleander. Bouganvillas are beautiful but my hands still bear the wounds of pruning back this wicked bush this week. Once established, the thorns are huge. It will take over - but it might take years and years for that to happen.</p>

<p>

Unfortunately, this little bacteria brought in by this little bug kills them and there seems to be no cure. Other than that they seem very hardy. I’ve even transplanted some and it didn’t seem to bother them much.</p>