Got any suggestions of what to do there, where to eat? I’m going to be cycling, and Mr. Fang will be following along with a car and hiking every day. We’ll spend a week in the West, then take the train up to the north and spend another week.
H and I did a similar trip, I think… we started in Dublin where he had a conference, and from there drove up to Northern Ireland for a few days, then drove across northwest Ireland down to Doolin and stayed there a few days. If these are areas you will be in, I have a lot of recommendations. But just wanted to make sure I have the geography correct before I post again.
Ha! Your post made me go back and look at my photos from that trip. We were actually there eight years ago right now. I forgot that we were actually in Ireland on St. Patrick’s Day, which is also our anniversary. Probably my top two or three trips I’ve ever taken.
I highly recommend both staying and dining here: http://www.sheedys.com/
The dinners and breakfasts are amazing. It’s a handy location for exploring sites like The Burren and Cliffs of Moher.
If you are going to Doolin…
http://www.doolincliffwalk.com/
Another CCer recommedned this walk, and it was a major highlight of our trip. 8 km on the edge of the cliffs, away from the tourists! Pat is a great guide and was responsible for coordinating right-of-way with the 39 farmers who have land along the cliffs. His family has been there for generations, he came back to farm after time away, and is absolutely committed to the community. He and his wife have a B&B in their home and we stayed there as well.
I might have been the one who recommended that walk and we stayed in their bed and breakfast too!
There are many lovely places but I don’t remember seeing a lot of cyclists. The roads are narrow so check with some experienced Irish biking groups so that you’ll be as safe as possible.
The burrens are lovely too. A high plateau in county Clare with unique and flat rock formations. It makes for difficult farming so there is more wild terrain. It is very popular with hikers! There is a place called the Burren perfumery that would be a good pit stop. They make fresh breads and soup every day. There is also the Poulnabrone dolman which is thousands of years old.
Greenwitch, I think it was you, and I have recommended Pat’s walks and B&B to a number of people since our experience!
We also did Slea Head Drive which is on the Dingle Peninsula. Lovely drive!
We only stayed at B&Bs and would do it again that way. All the owners were excellent resources for things to do in the areas we stayed. However, at the time (eight years ago), all of them only took cash when it was time to pay, so we had to plan our ATM stops accordingly. The day after St. Patrick’s Day, when we were in Doolin, it took H an hour of driving around to find an ATM that had any money in it. We finally found one at the Cliffs of Mohr visitor’s center, which was on the agenda anyway. But I think we got the last of the cash out of that machine that day.
Also, if H is renting a car, know that he will have to purchase insurance through the rental company, even if you’re covered under your major credit card holder. I think there are like three countries in the world where the insurance you have through your major credit card is not sufficient and Ireland is one of them. Driving there is an experience. When you’re in town anywhere and walking around, look at the tires/wheels of cars. You can tell which cars are rental cars because they have zip ties holding the hubcap onto the tire. Foreign rental drivers are notorious for hugging curbs too closely on narrow, winding roads and without zip ties, rental cars would lose a lot of hubcaps when tires hits curbs.
We’ll probably have a bike travel service plan my itinerary and book our accommodations, which I think will be B&Bs. I’m confident they can plan a good route for me, because it’s their job. I’ll also probably rent a bike from them. I’d rather ride one of my own bikes, but shipping a bike is such a nuisance.
We’ll be staying at each lodging for one or two nights.
Are you planning on visiting the Aran Islands? That would be a fabulous place to bike (and visit).
My D1 did a semester in Cork and travelled all over. Her favorite places were the wildest and most remote places - Connemara, Donegal, and Mayo. If you go out there, there should surely be less car traffic. The Ring of Kerry, for example, is gorgeous but very crowded with cars and tour buses.
We ate in the pubs mostly. They are the heart of each village and proudly serve hot food all day. Very good food too! One restaurant we did love was Ard Bia in Galway city. It means “high food” and it’s right near the Spanish Arch.
Second the suggestion of visiting the Aran Islands.
Make sure to see the Giants Causeway, not too far from Belfast. While you’re out that way, go see Dunluce Castle, a an awesome ruin on the coast overlooking the water. I get chills just thinking about it!
Third the Aran Islands - the quickest way to get to them is to catch a ferry from Doolin. We also loved Giant’s Causeway, and the bridge nearby (that I almost froze on halfway across), but as I mentioned above, we were already up in Northern Ireland for a couple of days… don’t know if you’ll get up there or not. All the places people are suggesting (minus the Ring of Kerry and Cork) are going to be relatively bike friendly, meaning less traffic. I’m trusting that you’ve researched riding over there and have been sufficiently warned how narrow the country roads are, with no shoulder. Connemara and Westport are lovely areas. Clifden is another quaint town we enjoyed. Sky Road has some beautiful scenic overlooks out onto the sea.
As far as the Doolin cliffwalk–don’t think he needs to “coordinate” the right of way–the path runs through those farms and anyone can walk it. My D did about 13 years ago and we did five years ago. No guide or “right of way” required.
I’m sure his story telling is GREAT, though! 
Fourthing Aran islands. We biked all over there. I could go spend a whole vacation just there if I ever get a chance to go back.
Pat told us he had to get each farmer to grant right of way to create the path because fences needed to be built/moved. There was one holdout, and we had to take a detour! One can indeed hike it without a guide, but we got so much more out of it with Pat.
If you’re interested in ancient sites, here is a good web site to help you find them. You can search by county and also by monument type (round tower, wedge tomb, holy well, stone circle, etc.). Dun Aengus is on the Aran Islands.
P.S. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, you’re supposed to go knock on some farmhouse door or ask at the local pub!
Also, get the app called Wild Atlantic Way. Lots of helpful info and maps!
Countingdown–we actually went over or through fences in a few places, didn’t see a path that went around, but did follow faint worn paths (including under electric fence, I believe!) In any case, it’s a great walk, but not sure I could do that again. My knees are old. The walk back on sore legs was already brutal five years ago! Regardless, it was a wonderful experience!