<p>I have had to learn the hard way about sump pumps - The stuff is not taught in Civil Engineering textbooks and few references exist as to the proper sizing of sumps. So, here’s a page or two from my knowledge base.</p>
<p>Primary Pump</p>
<p>The few references I found suggest one needs as many GPH (Gallons Per Hour) as they have Sq Ft in the basement - under good soil and drainage and weather and water table. Meaning, in nice sandy soil, decent non-crazy weather, and low water table, a 2000 sq ft basement needs a 2000 GPH pump. That’s a 1/3 HP. In practice, 2000 sq ft basement in clay soil with stupid weather (several inches of rain in a 24 hour period PLUS 2+ inches per hour) and high water table and you’re looking at a lot more than 2000 GPH, more like 3400 GPH. In my 2000 sq ft basement after stupid rainfall (as described above) and with heavy clay soil and water table a foot or two under the (half) basement floor, 3400 is about right - read, 1/2 HP and GOOD quality pump at that. </p>
<p>The easiest way is to see how often the pump runs if you get the once a year 3-5 inches of rain. If it runs for a few seconds, then idle for a minute, then runs again for a few seconds, that’s one thing. If it runs 50% of the time, or worse, or runs straight, then you have a problem. </p>
<p>The worst case scenario is a steady rain not uncommon in the Midwest on and off for a few days to saturate the soil, then a nasty storm that drops 2-4 inches in a day. If your current pump runs once a minute for 10 seconds in such conditions, good for you. If it runs at 50% duty, good luck.</p>
<p>Water Powered Backups</p>
<p>The backups that are based on water work well when you don’t really have that much to pump out AND you have decent water pressure. Here in the flatlands the water pressure is barely adequate (not even 40psi) while other places get nearly twice that. Your utility can tell you how much or you can ask your friendly plumber.</p>
<p>Battery Backups</p>
<p>Battery backup works pretty well. The pumps I have give 2200 GPH for 8 hours, and I’ve seen it run straight for 4 hours eating half the battery. The good ones have LED’s or other indicators, and have a computer unit to control the discharge/charge cycle etc. The one I like is the Basement WatchDog AC/DC which can run either 120V or 12V. The ability to run at 120V is great in case the primary pump can’t keep up with the flow.</p>
<p>Are the battery backups infallible? no. They, too, fail, or they can’t keep up. Since our lower level is nearly all finished we have a pair of the backups. The primary has its own discharge pipe, and each of the backups has its own separate pipe as well. </p>
<p>The cost for each unit is $600 @ Home Depot plus $100-200 installation. Battery lasts around 6-8 years. You can double up the batteries for longer life. </p>
<p>Generators</p>
<p>The problem is that no battery backup will run for a week - if you’re in Noreaster land, or Katrina land, a generator may be a better option. In such case you need both a battery backup (in case the primary pump dies or can’t keep up) and a generator to provide juice.</p>
<p>Bottom Line</p>
<p>You have to understand your requirements first. For a larger house in iffy weather and soil, 1/2 HP is minimum. Or, don’t do a basement :-). Do not expect the builder, the building inspector, or the plumber to know any of the above. I had to calculate a lot of things the hard way before figuring out worst case scenarios - for example, the hardest rain ever in our state was 3 1/2 inches per hour. An hour of that and no consumer grade sump pump in the world will be able to pump it out fast enough where I am. So, a single backup may not be sufficient…</p>
<p>Remember the basics: Pumping capacity, Redundancy, and Duration of Outages. And, always look out for new stuff. The PumpSitter described above is quite an interesting idea.</p>