<p>I wanted to have some fun with my first thread. Any experienced model builders? What do you think is the best type of glue I should use on my studio models? </p>
<p>Aslo, a more serious question that I have confusion on; what are the best types of materials to use on models? On my current model, I can use up to 3 types of material plus a fourth for the base. So far I have hardboard for the base, balsa wood and some type of birchwood mix for the model. I got the birchwood at the hardware store. It’s not as good of quality as the craft store, but it’s much cheaper. I’ve seen some models that use a milky white/clearish material. I’ve been wondering what that is. </p>
<p>Any suggestions on good (and possibly cheap) materials to use?</p>
<p>for model materials, the material you want to use depends on what you want to show for your design (unless you’re building this for some client who wants to see an actual representation of the final product). that’s why i’m kind of surprised you’re using more than 3 types of materials because unless you have a real reason to, the materials might express different intentions and become a little chaotic. less is more…
are you wanting to express thickness (foamboard)? translucency (plexi-glass)?
dont’ spend too much on expensive materials unless you have to. studio projects are graded far more on the design rather than how well you’ve built your model. but do make sure that the materials you choose best express your design concept</p>
<p>I don’t have to use 3 different types of material but we can use up to 3. The base can be a different material, so 4 total. There’s a catch though. We have to use a given number of pieces with different dimensions (all rectangles). We have to use all of them and we can’t add our own. And we have to use a total of 8 columns. There also has to be a center of focus, which is represented by a red cube. It’s supposed to represent a person or a group of people but the structure is to be abstract, focusing on space and not structure. </p>
<p>Confusing, I know. I’ve been working on it for 3 days straight. I’m only using two diff. materials and a different one for the base. It looks ok but you’re scaring me by saying they don’t grade much on construction but more on design. I’m taking forever to make sure all my corners are perfect. I’m not to sure about the design. To tell you the truth, I’m not that sure about the assignment. I guess that’s part of being in studio.</p>
<p>I second sobo glue. Also, if you plan on using foamboard, and none of the glues seem to be working, don’t resort to superglue. Most superglues dissolve the foam core. Might as well use a glue gun.<br>
Like sashimi said, it really does depend on what you’d like to express thru the various materials; it’d be rather hard to simply suggest different materials without seeing the design, or your knowing your thoughts and reasoning behind it.</p>
<p>make sure you don’t spend TOO much time making sure all the corners are perfect. I dont’ know if you’re a first year or not but one of the biggest problems with first years (?) is that they tend to focus way too much on craft over the design concept so they often pull many unnecessary all nighters. in a review, professors rarely ever comment on the quality of how you built your model (unless it’s REALLY badly constructed). professors love to see you produce many models with a process behind it rather than one really nice crafted model. </p>
<p>sounds like an interesting project. good luck!</p>
<p>The nicest model I’ve built had a total of four materials: black walnut, cherry, poplar and polished steel. Usually though, I just do chipboard and basswood. Two materials is enough to break the monochrome quality of just one material. More than two and it starts getting really messy - different kinds of wood can still be used though, but be careful about it really expressing your design intent.</p>
<p>As for glue, sobo is amazing. Zap-a-gap works wonders for some materials. Home Depot also carries an amazing super glue that works on wood. I’ll look up the name when I am back in studio.</p>
<p>TACKY FTW!
tacky clear dries really slow… tacky fast dry is fast! i’ve never compared those two to the normal one, though.
zap a gap is really disgusting, in my opinion.</p>
<p>Thirty years ago Elmer’s was the ticket. My first model as a transfer into the A-school was of mat board, plexiglas and wood. Bent the plexi over the stove-top and glued everything with Elmer’s. Last time I ran into it in storage it was still all in one piece! </p>
<p>Use pins to hold your model planes together white the glue dries</p>
<p>Glue in small square or triangle supports ( 1/2" x1/2" ) at the top and bottom, between two 90 degree pieces to strengthen the mass.</p>
<p>I love Elmers but that’s me.</p>
<p>Keep your fingers clean.</p>
<p>If you can afford it or find it–have the material laser cut and then spend your time gluing it.</p>
<p>Most importantly, learn to experiment with the ‘rules’. Chances are the prof would accept four materials if they were four sexy materials. I’ve been burned in a a competition or two–following the rules when the winners broke the rules and took home the prizes. Design is partially about the requirements but it is mostly about creating a solution that supercedes the requirements.</p>
<p>Younger students tend to get too caught up in solving the fussy requirements. Sit in on the reviews of older student projects so that you’ll see that the prof rarely checks the program requirements–but gets caught up discussing the design instead. </p>
<p>Check school websites to get an idea of what models top students in top schools are building. I’d also google models of Frank Gehry and sift through those.</p>
i’ve never compared those two to the normal one, though.