The Home Improvement Thread

What I have now is 8 - 18 inch fluorescent bars. Not sure what the present problem is but I know it’s not just the bulb. We will need to do some more research. This is the first time we have used this electrician but his price for the other work he did for us was very reasonable. My H is a general contractor but hasn’t actively built since LED lights became common. We only have the fluorescent lights due to a code when we built the house 22 years ago.

I would opt for option 3! :slight_smile: If you rarely use these lights, then don’t spend any money now. I would not even spend money on stuff like that even if I were putting the house on the market. Definitely do not replace them with another set of fluorescent lights.

You can easily swap your undercounter lights for these plug in LED lights. Very inexpensive, you can install yourself.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ARQY31S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think plug in lights work only if you have a hidden outlet so there will be no cords dangling off the cabinet anywhere. It is just not a good look lMO when cords are visible.

We just redid our kitchen in April, and our electrician suggested we install the low voltage tape lights under the counter. He put them on a dimmer switch, and we LOVE them. The dimmer switch is key, we can turn them down real low at night for a soft glow, or turn them up when we want more counter illumination. But mostly we put them on low after dinner is cleaned up and the kitchen is “closed”. With the tape, I don’t even know the bulbs are there at all. Highly recommend for those who want undercounter lighting. I’m not sure how much they cost, because it was all lumped into the entire invoice from the electrician, but it was certainly much less than $700.

I like the tape or a very low profile LED for undercounter. That said, I find I rarely use the lights either in my current kitchen or my old one. LEDs should last much longer and won’t buzz or flicker as they age like fluorescents too often do.

Not all LED fixtures work with dimmers, so make sure the combo you pick is going to work. Although this talks about retrofits, it applies to other LEDs.

https://www.integral-led.com/education/dimmable-and-non-dimmable-led-lamps

We have halogen under-counter lights in our current kitchen and they get used all the time.

We have a scene-lighting system that controls everything though (there are 8 dimmers driving the lights in my kitchen) and they are programmed to come on in certain scenes. I like having them on when we are cooking and when the night scene is on.

Apparently we have the same scene lightin controlled by a remote. Remote is no longer here, so Mr. B de-complicated the wiring. For mood lighting, we use our island hood. It has cool LED light rim that can change colors. B-)

We don’t have a remote. We have switches with 6 buttons on them. One button turns everything on, one turns everything off.

The other four buttons are programmable “scenes”. You push the button, set the 8 dimmers for how you want them to be for that button, then press a tiny control on each dimmer to associate that dimmer’s setting with the button.

It’s super-easy and really cool to use. There are something like 27 light fixtures in my kitchen, and you can control them all by pushing one button.

Sadly they don’t make this system any more.

Pretty cool. Can you… take it with you? :slight_smile:

Everything in the house we bought is an overkill. It was built with the finest tech and materials available in the eighties to nineties. Today, we discovered that our garage locks are super uber duper fancy. And secure. Mr. decided that the locks needed to be re-keyed after another horde of contractors did some work on the house. I told him that he needed to buy new locks because these looked ancient. Noooo… Off to the locksmith he went. I hate to be right in such cases, but the locksmith confirmed my suspicion - those were very rare and very expensive locks that are no longer made. He even asked us if we were Bill G’s neighbors. LOL. Because only fancy old waterfront homes here apparently have such locks… Nope, just an old dilapidated house smack in the middle of not so fancy area. :smiley:

The system is almost 20 years old now. I’m dreading that one of these controllers is going to fail before I sell the house. Pretty much the only place to get a replace is eBay, if I get lucky.

If something fails, can you replace just the failed guts? Like a dry capacitor or such? Here is my take on things like that from a home buyer’s perspective. If it fails… chances are the buyer would not care because the buyer will replace everything with a Nest or a similar wifi system. We definitely have no need for the fancy whole house, multi-channel audio system with fancy controls we got with the house. We did not even test if it works when we inspected the place. So I highly doubt that would be a deal breaker for the buyers.

About under cabinet lighting…my electrician was just trying to get me to install the low voltage under counter LED strips. Wanted to show me a bunch of pictures on how cool they were. Yes…but, you have to buy a transformer $$, then wire the transformer to something $$$ and then I have to source the low voltage strips. Since walls are opened up in my project right now I told him to just stick some wires in and call it a day.

Replacing the old fluorescent fixtures with new LED lighting involves buying about 8 LED fixtures at about $40 each, so let’s say 350 after taxes. Then someone throws away the old lights but you have to hard wire 8 new lights and mount them. 2 hrs work

I am blessed that Mr. B is a fabulous electrician. A glass of wine and a good steak after the job is complete take care of the labor charge. :slight_smile: Materials and parts - that is a different issue. Just priced out copper wiring to run the 220v to the garage for the Tesla charger - $500. Not to count other stuff like conduits. We looked at each other and for now voted to keep the dang thing charging from the “slow” $110 outlet. :slight_smile:

But we are getting new doors for the upstairs. Yay! White and beautiful.

And… this is how NOT to remodel a bathroom.

https://www.mamamia.com.au/viral-toilet-selfie/

Saw the most unusual kitchen island… with this sink!!!

https://www.thekitchn.com/this-round-sink-has-a-colander-cutting-board-and-it-spins-wait-what-196418

@coralbrook - we got those LED strips, with a dimmer, for inside a cabinet with glass inserts. They are very nice! Yes, that transformer was $75-80 and caused some drama at the electrical supply place. Contractor told me to return it and order one that is available online only for $45. That one was installed, instantly turned into “seizure lights” and couldn’t be returned. Electrical place asked me if electrician had installed it correctly. I said yes, they said no. I left with the bad $45 transformer. Electrician came back, tried again, found it didn’t work (again), and returned it himself to the supply place, getting the more expensive one instead. They didn’t try to push him around.

He called it an emerging technology that has all sorts of growing pains. Pains in the neck!

@notrichenough Can you tell me how difficult it is to install the Nu-Wall product around windowsills and doors with trim that sticks out a little and so forth? Is it reasonably easy to make the necessary cutouts?

It cuts very easily with a utility knife. So I would start a piece at the top of the wall, and as I smoothed it down the wall, whenever I came to an instruction like molding, just push it up against the molding and cut it with the knife. Plugs and switches are easy, just let it fall over the plug or switch and cut around it.

It’s a little awkward if you are doing it by yourself, and ceilings are a real challenge to do solo, so having a helper will definitely make it easier.

And to paint it in well requires a lot of paint, I typically get 100-maybe 150 sq ft per gallon.