I loved tracing the sutras. It sounds like they may have made it a bit easier to make reservations. We walked through the garden once taking pictures and then rewalked it again just enjoying it. My favorite place in Japan.
Also nice is just walking along the philosopher’s walk.
Seconding @mathmom on both Saihoji and Kenrouken in Kanazawa. Gardens are quite special in Japan and also a way to feel a little less trapped by crowds. It’s possible to make the most famous gardens a theme of your trip if you are so inclined.
And yes, you can make reservations in advance by email for Saihoji. Doing the sutras first is, imho, essential. The visit isn’t about visiting the gardens as much as seeing them, and that’s a great exercise to start that process.
Editted to add that Katsura Imperial Villa (Kyoto) also requires advanced ticketing and is quite lovely.
It is much easier now. When we went to the Saihoji in 2002, you had to kneel at a very low table and copy a really long section. When we went in 2025, there were tables with chairs and there was much less to copy. I didn’t find the copying contemplative in either case. I found them sort of wondrous. Going with fewer people there is better. We made reservations by fax in 2002 and online in 2025 (much easier).
No chairs in spring 2026, but perfectly comfortable low tables. In any case, worth the visit.
So what are people’s advice for which neighborhoods to stay in when looking for hotels in tokyo, osaka, and kyoto?
Gion is quiet and accessible in Kyoto, and also not too busy. We have stayed at the Celestine, which runs a free shuttle to the train station. That’s helpful not just when you’rearriving and departing, but also if you want to get to that neighborhood, – train to Nara, shopping, etc. It kind of gives you the benefit of both areas.
We don’t love stepping out into madness - which is what many tourists look for – and there are places in Tokyo that have easy access to the subway but are quiet. The area around the New Otani and the Tokyo Palace Hotel both fit that description. And there are still amenities.
One of the nice things about Japan is that it is very safe, so unlike some other places, you can walk home from a restaurant or the subway after dark without worry. And that means, in turn, that you don’t need to choose a hotel in a busy area simply to feel safe.