Trip to Japan

Parent Cafe Travel
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My daughter and I have finally started to plan our dream trip to Japan. We are on the east coast so it will be a long flight (and expensive as well), so we have been kind of putting it off for that reason.

A few of her friends have gone and offered some good tips and advice. We love museums, Japanese pop culture, cities, love to walk but never hike, and food (but not at all adventurous - so not even sushi with raw fish).

I am looking for suggestions for hotels (her friends suggested places where you sleep on a mat and share a bathroom - I am too old for that). I would like hotels that are well located with amenities (such as fitness room so I can do my daily stationary bike).

Looking for ideas of which cities I should include and which I can skip. Right now we are considering Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka. I have no interest in sad historic places (so no Hiroshima). Not sure how long we will go for - most likely around 2 weeks (and that would include the day lost at each end in flight).

Would love tips on when to go - best weather time - not too hot (we are flexible and don’t need to see cherry blossoms so would most likely avoid the crowded April month).

Would also love ideas on must see places - both old culture and pop culture (we would want to check out Hello Kitty, Studio Ghibli, Nintendo sites.)

Just open in general to anything about your trip to Japan that would help us in our planning.

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Mimaru is my go to hotel chain. Great service, fantastic rooms in convenient locations. And if you stay with them the whole time you can also get luggage forwarding done between cities.

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This looks great - good tip

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May I ask, why Japan? I was there last October and went to those 3 cities plus some. My tour guide also thought it was a great idea to stay at a traditional hotel, sleeping on a tatami and sharing hot spring bath (naked). I opted out of it. I asked the hotel to move me to a newly renovated room with western bed. My friend who doesn’t eat anything raw, struggled with food.

Japan was very crowded with tourists, especially Kyoto. It wasn’t a place I remembered from a while back. My brother loves Japan. He goes back almost every year. He tends to go to more more high end places than where my tour took me. If you are interested I could ask him for some recommendations.

There are other places in Asia I would consider - Taiwan, HKG, Singapore, Vietnam, Thailand. I’m would recommend hiring a local tour guide. My sister did a Silversea cruise around Japan. She enjoyed it.

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I quite liked Kyoto. The Nijo Castle in Kyoto is beautiful (and a very capable defensive castle in its time). The floor was made to intentionally creak so that no one could sneak up on the emperor to kill him (when there you can read about how well that worked out at one point). You can try to walk lightly and the floor will still make a sound (of course we all tried this). There are so many temples in Kyoto that I cannot imagine anyone visiting all of them unless you live there for a few years and make it your mission in life. It is definitely worth visiting at least some of them. My understanding is that Kyoto was largely spared during world war 2 which is a very good thing and leaves a lot of interesting things to see that are very old. I remember visiting a temple that was intentionally designed to survive earthquakes, and has survived at least many hundreds of years.

The bullet train from Tokyo to Osaka was an experience. It is so fast that anything close to the train goes by so quickly that at first you think that your eyes are defective. It however is very smooth (it probably has to be to move so fast). If I already wanted to move between these two cities I would take it again, but I would not go out of my way to take it.

I liked Hiroshima quite a bit. I was there for a week long business trip. With a day to go I was out of work to do and it was going to be too expensive to change my flights, so I wandered over to the peace museum. It is VERY well done and is very much worth a visit. I found it very moving. They probably could have made it anti-American but really didn’t. Instead they have a very thoughtful presentation of the issues that led up to the bombing. It is indeed sad however.

To me this seems like a sensible amount of time. It is such a distance that once there you want to take advantage of the time spent getting there and getting accustomed to the time zone. You could spend a lot longer and never run out of things to see, but after two weeks many of us (myself included) are ready to get home already.

One comment with respect to jet lag: On one trip to Japan I took a very early flight from Boston to Chicago, and then a very long flight from Chicago to Japan (I am not sure if this was to Tokyo or Osaka). I had to get up very early for the first flight. The result was that I was horribly tired. We took off from Chicago around noon, and I immediately fell asleep and slept for something like 10 hours, waking up as we were getting close to Japan. The result was that I was pretty much already on Japan time before we even arrived there. This was the least jet lag that I ever had on a trip to Asia. Getting on Japan time as soon as you can is valuable, although it is not always easy to do.

In general for trips to Asia I used to try to not plan to do much on the first day there. In the unusual case where jet lag did not hit me much, there is enough to do just wandering around. I always felt safe in Japan, although being a large man (mostly vertically) might help in this regard.

I always stayed at either the hotel that was hosting the conference I was going to, or at the hotel recommended by our local sales office. As such I have no idea what hotels to suggest.

You might want to ask your doctor about vaccinations. I did get some vaccinations for my trips to Asia (hepatitis A and B come to mind) but at least part of this might be more due to having many trips to many parts of Asia. Japan did seem clean to me in addition to seeming to be safe. I did run into some places, including some restaurants, where their English was rather limited.

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We did it with our family last holiday break. We only had 8 days, but in some ways it was the perfect amount of time. 80% Tokyo and took the bullet-train to Kyoto. Most people would say a week was too rushed, but I think it worked well.

I especially liked watching the tuna auctions in Tokyo. I think that is free or cheap, but you need to wake up early. We had some amazing meals but sometimes the prices were not commensurate with the quality… and sometimes they were. For example, we went to three high end restaurants. One was a tourist trap and bad. The other two were some of the best restaurants I have ever been to… and we eat out a lot. We also went to a dive near the hotel for sushi and literally four of us ate dinner for less than $100 USD and it was excellent.

One surprise was how cold it was around Christmas time. Literally 35 degrees and very windy. Slight negative tbh. Bring warm clothes. 7-11 was crazy fun and it will not be what you think.

Omakase was more of an experience for us. I can’t say I liked eating tuna ovaries and similar. But I can say I did it.

I might skip the electronics market or just go for a short time. Kyoto in some ways had the better temples IMO. Eventually you get all templed out.

Trip of a lifetime so enjoy.

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I lived in Tokyo for 30 years before moving to France 3 years ago. I’m not very good at providing recommendations, but as you mention Ghibli, just be aware that if you want to visit the Ghibli museum outside Tokyo, you will need to make reservations in advance. I never actually went myself, although I always wanted to. Ghibli Museum, Mitaka For food, you should try to find a good tempura place, Ten-ichi or Ten-kuni. Also, if you want to splurge, maybe robatayaki. Cuisine┃Roppongi Robataya I heard from my doctor, who went recently, that both Tokyo and Kyoto were pretty crowded, as people are saying here. If you want to try a place that is very beautiful but a bit off the track, consider Kanazawa. I am a vegetarian, but they were very kind to me there, and the food was terrific. VISIT KANAZAWA, JAPAN - Official Travel Guide

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Yes we made the mistake of thinking we could go to the Ghibli but found out the hard way you need to reserve on the day the reservations open for your visit day. I think it was like 90 days ahead of time.

We went in August due to kid schedules, after the summer rainy season. Was hot and very muggy.

We went to Tokyo, Hakone, Kyoto and Kanazawa. We then went to the Japan Alps. Overall, a great trip. The temples and shrines in Kyoto were amazing. Hakone has a very interesting open air museum and a lake and mountains. We stayed in a mix of western style hotels and ryokans (tatami mats) which were surprisingly comfortable. I can’t remember if we had to share a bathroom!

The onsen (baths) were intimidating at first (it was me with DH and DSs so went in alone!) but turned out to be a favorite activity.

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On my last trip to Japan with ShawWife and ShawD, we stayed at the Maranouchi in Tokyo (nothing to write home about) and the Kyoto Hilton, which was terrific. Breakfast was fabulous. In other cities, we stayed at ryokans and we cycled on the Shimanami Kaido, where the places were not fancy (though one, Wakka, was pretty nice). I often stay at the Conrad Hotels and did so in Seoul – a great hotel. I think ShawD stayed at the one in Tokyo. I think she said it was excellent. I’m a Hilton Diamond and get to use the executive lounges, which is sometimes nice.

In Kyoto, we went to the Moss Garden. We were there in 2001. It seemed mystical and glorious. We went back this past year and it was still cool, but feels like it was smaller. You need to make reservations in advance for the Moss Garden.

We stayed at a completely out-of-the-way hotel called Iya Onsen in Miyoshi. Stunning with its own hot springs on the bank of a river.

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Another vote for Kanazawa and the Japanese Alps (hot spring snow monkeys.) You can experience a traditional onsen ryokan for a night there. There are lots (and lots and lots) of tourists in Japan, even in the slightly “off” months, like March. The upside is that it’s remarkably easy and safe to get around.

Make reservations for things like studio ghibli well in advance.

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The Conrad in Tokyo is, indeed, very nice. It is a little bit out of the center, but it has beautiful views over the Hama Rikyu gardens, where General Grant stayed for a month back in the day. In Kyoto, the Westin Miyako is also good, just a short walk away from the beautiful Nanzen-ji temple complex and the Philosopher’s Walk.

I agree with @mom2and 's suggestion of Hakone. It’s less than two hours from Tokyo via a train called the Romance Car and it’s lots of fun and very beautiful - you can take the little railway to the Open-Air Museum and then the ropeway over the volcanic crater and down the hill to the lake (best view of Mt. Fuji on a clear day). And then there’s a pirate ship across the lake if you like. I just changed my pictures for fall (Japanese tradition moved to France) and hung a print of the Fujiya Hotel in Hakone. https://fujiyahotel.net/ It is supposed to be the oldest “Western” hotel in Asia. We loved it, although I haven’t been back since a renovation that was done after the big earthquake in 2011. Very easy for non-raw fish and non-naked bath people (I count myself among them).

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Ghibli tickets are really hard to get . We used a (legit) agency - I can look up the name if you want -I seem to recall they ask you to give up to 4 time slots that you can do and commit to being able to go if they can get you one of those. It included an English “presentation” (over a binder in a coffee shop down the road) before you go, which we found useful as all the explanation signs in the museum are in Japanese. Obviously, it costs more to do it that way. We figured in the scheme of the cost of the whole trip it was quite a marginal extra expense and it was well worth it to be able to go.
One not so famous thing in Tokyo we happened across was the art aquarium which was quite a surreal experience. We also enjoyed the TeamLabs visit immensely. Photos don’t do either of these justice.

For pop culture shopping experiences, you may want to visit some of the Animate and Mandarake stores. The Nakano Broadway mall has a bunch of specialty Mandarake stores and is a stop on the train line to Ghibli if you do end up going. And Takeshita Dori of course.

We only had a spring break week to spend and stayed in Tokyo the whole time (well, and Yokohama to visit the cup noodles museum, which was also pretty interesting). We were lucky to catch the cherry blossoms while we were there. I would have to go back and check my photos/calendar to see everywhere we went but I didn’t think I would enjoy Tokyo all that much and ended up loving it. Do be prepared for crowds, though. We stayed at the Hyatt House Shibuya which actually had lovely rooms - quite different to their US counterparts (and a washer/dryer in unit as well as kitchenette). I think anywhere that has a decent amount of walkable sights/stores/restaurants and train station nearby would be a good base - Shibuya fit that bill but there are certainly other areas that would too.

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Yes to Team Labs and (a bit less so) art aquarium in Tokyo. Both unusual, and the first quite spectacular.

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We loved TeamLabs.

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We loved Team Labs too. Were there for hours!

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We went November of last year for 19 days. Weather was spectacular, ranging from cool (light puffer jacket) to warm (short sleeves with a light long sleeve layer that fit in the daypack if I didn’t need it.) We were there in the height of their autumn and the colors were spectacular. We had just one rainy day! Crowded? Yes - very, but expected. We did research on best times to visit the Kyoto temples (go early or later in the day), and used a hired driver to take us to the ones that are further outside the city. Having the driver allowed us to be dropped off (and picked up) right at the gate which saved walking time and distance. I also made a list of off the beaten track temples we could visit so we weren’t fighting crowds all day. The “Big 4” had wall to wall crowds along the walking paths, but the others we visited were much more manageable. We did make the mistake of going to Nishiki Market on a rainy afternoon, and it was crazy packed - claustrophobia level crowds. But don’t let the crowds scare you off - if historic culture is a priority, then Kyoto is a must. Just be sure to wander beyond the places where everyone is packed in trying to get a great photo. There are so many wonderful places to visit, which does make it hard to map out. Agree with @DadTwoGirls that Nijo Castle is worthwhile (and easy to get to). We also very much enjoyed Kyoto’s Imperial Palace and grounds/garden in the center of Kyoto. It is a huge green space that was not crowded, but made for a very lovely late afternoon walking outing. This is something that doesn’t hit a lot of must-see lists, but we spent a week in Kyoto so we had the luxury of doing more than just running around to the most recommended temples with the Instagram picture-snapping crowds.

I’m not here to talk you into going to Hiroshima, but for others reading this thread with interest - it was a highlight of our trip and I am so glad we went. As @DadTwoGirls noted above, the Peace Museum (and the Peace Park) is so well done. We combined this with a day trip (via boat) to Miyajima Island which we very much enjoyed. In Hiroshima we also loved Shukkeien Garden, a 17th century strolling garden. It was an unexpected surprise for us. Overall we loved the vibe of the city which was very different than Tokyo or Kyoto.

The focus for our group was scenery and historic culture, so we did not do TeamLab or any museums. We were fortunate to have my Japanese sister-in-law as our guide so our trip was a bit different since we did some non-tourist things such as visiting her home town outside of Tokyo. In Kyoto we stayed in a neighborhood near where our niece is currently living rather than in the city center area, which gave us a better glimpse into everyday life. In Tokyo we stayed in Shibuya because my brother and SIL have an apartment there. It was a great location for us; the first day we of course experienced the Shibuya Scramble (world’s busiest pedestrian intersection) and then walked to Meiji Jingu shrine and gardens, which was a nice introduction to the paradox of the chaotic bustle and serene beauty of Japan.

As for food, there is no reason to struggle with it if that’s a concern. Japan has so much more to offer than sushi and off-putting dishes. We had two sushi-loving, adventurous eaters in our group and they only had it maybe four times the whole trip. There are convenience stores (7-11, Lawsons, Family Mart) on every street that sell sandwiches and yogurt and bananas and all kinds of fun things for those with a limited palate. The train stations and department stores have food halls with an amazing array of to-go options. We ate a lot of vegetable dishes and had a few meals at vegetarian restaurants to accommodate my other SIL. We also ate at a lovely Italian/pizza place in Kyoto.

My ultimate advice is to do plenty of research and curate the trip that speaks to you and your D. Have a plan, but also allow time and space for flexibility and serendipity. IMHO Japan is best savored rather than rushing from one highlight to the next. You won’t come close to seeing it all, so don’t try to cram too much in.

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Because you will probably take trains (and buses) to get places, you can make your life easier if you take advantage of services that ship your bags from one place to the next. Your hotel can probably arange this. It costs something. @ucscuuw mentioned going from one hotel to the next in the same chain – I wonder if the shipping is free.

We went to the Art Island(s). Impressive architecture and good art (some great and some mediocre – the mediocre pieces are by very well-known artists whom they wanted to have represented in the collection). All of our artist/artsy friends have gone there in recent years. We had our bags shipped to the next hotel and not to the airbnb or hotel that we were staying at on the Art Island (Naoshima and two subsidiary islands).

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This last time we stayed in Shinjuku area which was very convenient because it has a large train station. My first preference was Shibuya. After a couple of days in Shinjuku, we went to the Imperial Hotel in Ginza area to visit the palace and surrounding areas. If you don’t like crowds you shouldn’t spend too many days in Tokyo but there are so many things to see and buy. Osaka is like Tokyo, just on a much smaller scale. I am glad we spent more days in Kyoto.

I’ve been to Japan numerous times and I really like it. I have friends in Hong Kong who go there almost every month and have since bought apartments in Tokyo.

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Plus one on the Moss Garden. We went over Christmas and New Year in 2023 because my son was serving in Japan and because of Covid rules we hadn’t been able to go and he was leaving Japan in February. Even in December the Moss garden was lovely. We had to send in a postcard from a local address to get reservations using a return receipt postcard. I am told you can also work with your hotel to get an entry. Another beautiful garden was the Kenroku-en in Kanazawa. Stunning. We loved the Japanese baths. At our ryokan in Kyoto they reserved times by room so it was just my husband and me. In Kanazawa there were separate baths for women and men. I love sushi, but the best sushi restaurants required reservations long in advance, that said the quick sushi places where it’s on a conveyor belt have much better sushi than the US.

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Reservations are required at Saihoji, but it’s possible to make them in advance via their website.

I always recommend a morning visit, and take the time to trace the sutras contemplatively before you walk the grounds.

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