Trip to Lebanon and South Africa

I thought I would share a little bit about our recent trip for those of you who might be interested (others can ignore this post, ha).

I returned from Cape Town, South Africa yesterday. I had to take three flights of 2 hours, 8 hours and 13 hours. Then I had a two-hour bus trip and a 30-minute car ride. I was up for 48 hours straight. But it was worth it!

We first traveled to Beirut on June 9. We were so impressed by Lebanon! What a beautiful country. Our son is a junior at the American University of Beirut. It’s a GORGEOUS campus, set on a big hill right on the Mediterranean. Lots of ivy, trees, and flowering plants. There are still a few bullet-riddled buildings downtown, but most of it has been rebuilt. The Saudis have spent literally billions of dollars on beautiful high rises and other buildings. There are many designer stores, such as Armani and Christian Dior. There’s also an amazing marina with a lot of huge yachts and a yacht club.

We visited the ancient town of Byblos, where you can see 8,000-year old ruins (my husband was impressed at how straight and plumb the stone walls are!). It’s the oldest continually inhabited town in the world. There are also Roman ruins there - it was funny to look at those and think of them as “new!”

Another beautiful place was the Jeita Grotto, which consists of two caves. http://jeitagrotto.com/ This location was selected as one of the 14 finalists for the new seven natural wonders of the world. Wow! Hard to describe how beautiful it is. In one cave, we took a boat ride on a turquoise-colored river.

We also visited Faraya, a ski resort area about an hour north of Beirut. Yes, you can go downhill skiing in Lebanon! The elevation is almost 6,100 feet, higher than the highest point in Maine. We ate on a restaurant patio that overlooked beautiful homes on the mountains.

Sidon was the other place we visited. There’s a huge souk (market) you literally get lost in - a maze of twisting alleyways. There’s also a fort right on the water that was built about 1,000 years ago. It was Ramadan, so people were fasting during the day. As a result, we were the ONLY lunch time customers at an outdoor restaurant with tables only a few feet away from the water and with views of the fort.

My dad has several ex-students living in Beirut. One of them was my husband’s office mate in graduate school -he is now an engineering professor at AUB. He kindly invited us over one night to break the day’s fast with his family. We ate so much! Then the next night he insisted on showing us around downtown Beirut. He had a lot to do with the city’s renovations and his wife is an architect who worked on some of the skyscrapers. We met them at 10 pm and they showed us around until 1:30 am! It was the 27th day of Ramadan, which wasn’t the very last day but considered to be the most important day. The mosques were all open and a lot of people were out praying all night. The city was lit up with lights of every color. Our hosts happened to mention that they had had headaches, because 27 days of not eating or drinking until sunset wears you down! If we had thought of that, we probably wouldn’t have let them give us a tour. But I think they enjoyed it - they are rightfully proud of how Beirut has bounced back. Our host’s wife is young enough that she was just a child during some of the worst years.

Our other trip was to a town adjacent to the big Syrian refugee camp in Damour, about 15 miles south of Beirut. This is where our son travels several times each week during the school year to volunteer. This summer, he is living in Damour and teaching kids English most days of the week. We visited a family with five kids and a sixth on the way. They currently live in two small unheated rooms. One room was formed with wood paneling. It turns out they weren’t supposed to add on the room, so they will have to remove the paneling and be confined to only one room. :frowning: All of the kids go to the school run by the Christian organization that our son works with. The youngsters were bright-eyed and friendly. Our son’s group gives the family food and meds, but the difficulty is that then the family gives some of the supplies to friends in the camp so they still run short. They said they feel they have to help others.

The one difficult part about visiting Lebanon is the driving. Oh, my goodness, to put it politely. We rented a very small car and sometimes it was too big! People pay NO attention to stop signs, red lights, one-way streets, speed limits, or painted lanes. I’ve driven a lot of places in the world but never seen anything like it. Even on major highways, there would be six “lanes” of traffic where only four were indicated. And the “lanes” were totally chaotic - people coming at you from every direction. On one-way streets, you would often see multiple scooters coming directly at you, expecting YOU to yield to them! On one major road, a car a little ways in front of us decided to go in reverse. He was coming right at us, and glared at us when we honked at him!

On our first morning there, the cover to our rear-view mirror fell off as we drove along a busy street (we think it got dislodged the night before when we parked on a very narrow street and a car bumped it - we didn’t realize we should have folded the mirror down). A scooter with two young men on it honked as us to let us know. We just shrugged because we couldn’t retrieve it in the busy traffic. They indicated that they would go back to get it for us, and they did! Of course, we got honked at as we waited for them to return, but that’s OK! We were impressed by their friendliness. Oh, that’s the other thing, the honking - if we hesitated for even a split second, we’d get honked at. But people making U-turns in the middle of a big street weren’t honked at! So bizarre.

I managed to bump our back fender as I was backing up in a small alley outside our son’s downtown apartment. Fortunately, Avis just charged us $90, even though some paint had come off and the bumper was dislodged slightly. I had bought car insurance through Avis, so I should get that back.

I would definitely recommend visiting Lebanon if you get a chance. It’s a vibrant, beautiful country with many friendly people. And getting to see it through our son’s eyes was priceless. Now I understand why he had to get a motorcycle, although it still makes me nervous.

Now I have to take care of paying some bills! I will post about South Africa later. :slight_smile:

Wonderful! I was about to PM skieurope to inquire about where you were. Hadn’t seen you posting recently.

That sounds like a fabulous trip - I know I couldn’t handle the driving either as the driver or the passenger! Glad you have returned safely and looking forward to the South Africa installment.

Thanks for the report! I thought I’d seen some crazy driving in various Asian countries. Your experience makes that seem civilized! Glad you stayed safe.

The driving was our experience in Iran, minus the honking.

Not often people post about trips to Lebanon! This made for really interesting reading.

Tell us about the food! I love Lebanese cuisine.

Glad you had a great trip and that you got a peek into your son’s new life.

Great to hear about your trip, @MaineLonghorn. Sounds worthwhile on all counts and makes me wish you could post photos. Glad you were able to share your son’s experiences, too. Thanks for sharing.

Sounds like you and your S had a great time @MaineLonghorn! I likely won’t visit there so love to read your vivid description.

Thanks, everyone. If you want to PM me, I could point you to just a few photos, ha.

My parents lived in Egypt for a few years. Cars frequently needed their horns replaced because they would wear out from all the honking. Not aware of replacement car horns being a big business here in the US.

Very interesting. It sounds like you had a great time with your S and that you got to experience some exotic places. Your S is doing important work and it is getting lost in the chaos right now. Thanks for sharing!

My D visited Beirut last year, visiting her new in laws’ family. She loved it! They hired a driver, though - they were not about to try to drive in that crazy mess. She also commented about the food - she said it was amazing, and ABUNDANT! They spent many hours at restaurants in the hills overlooking the city, eating wonderfully spiced, healthy food. She did say that there are areas of Beirut that must be avoided, but it’s like that in any major city.

Thank you for sharing your experience. Have not heard much about traveling to Lebanon and I appreciate hearing about its beauty. And how nice that you were able to visit your son and see his life there.

When you have the chance, I am looking forward to hearing about the South Africa leg of your journey:)

I hope you had a chance to try manouche. Not sure that is correct spelling. The Lebanese flatbread with zaatar or with the white cheese. My kids love the one with cheese. My SIL is from Beirut and manouche has become the go to Christmas morning breakfast. My brother and his wife buy it at a Lebanese bakery and freeze it. My SIL came to the US for graduate school and met my brother. Over the marriage my brother has traveled to Lebanon many times and raved about the beauty. Though SIL has also gone to Beirut during periods where she didn’t feel it was safe for my brother to travel with her. My SIL is a crazy driver and extremely passionate about politics. She loves her country but is extremely happy she also has a US passport.

@MaineLonghorn Thanks so much for posting this. Brought back a lot of great memories. We were in Lebanon in 2000 and went to many of the places you mentioned.
Byblos was amazing. Walked all through the ruins and then the market. We bought a gold leaf table cloth for like $10. We pull it out for all of the holidays.
The Jeita Grotto was beautiful. The amphitheater that was close by was also amazing - built in to the side of the mountain.
We stayed in Jounieh which was a very upscale suburb. The main street has some of the top stores in the world (Cartier, Gucci, etc). All looking down on the Med.
We did a day trip to the Beiteddine Palace. A former emir built it around 1800 and it has been used as summer palace by the president.
Wife’s family had a friend who was a professor at AU. had dinner at their house one night. Also looking down on the med (as just about everything does).
A trip up to Mount Lebanon is also worth it. Cable car ride to the top was great.
My favorite place was a restaurant just north of Jounieh. The main coast road went through a small cave and this restaurant was built right on top of the road - literally 30-40’ above it. Best restaurant we have ever eaten it in. :slight_smile: Would love to go back there some day.

My student is thinking of studying abroad at AUB. Is there a chance we could connect to talk about what this would be like? I am also in Texas although my child is studying in the NEast. Thanks!