<p>Last week, the first sign that there was a problem was when I turned it on, all the lights went on (for all cycles!!) and pressing any of the buttons didn’t change anything…but the machine went on and dishes got washed. </p>
<p>Then, I went out of town for a week. Got back Friday and tried to do a DW load last night. No lights, no power, nothing. </p>
<p>I turned off the fuse box switch for an hour and then turned back on…thinking maybe the internal computer board (or whatever lol) would “reset”. </p>
<p>nothing. :(</p>
<p>It’s a KitchenAid…the steam dishwasher…only 3 years old. It was pricey so I don’t want to replace it. I fear that it might need a new computer board and I know those can be pricey all by themselves. :(</p>
<p>Hoping someone here has an idea of what’s wrong and an easy fix.</p>
<p>Check the GFI (red and black buttons) breaker switch. It may have tripped and needs to be reset by pushing the red button again. It should be located either in your kitchen or perhaps on your garage wall someplace, or could really be anywhere? If that doesn’t work, look in the “troubleshooting” section of the dishwasher manual.</p>
<p>If it wasn’t for your ‘first sign’ statement I’d suggest chasing the power source but given that the first sign was a malfunctioning circuit board, assuming it should never light all the indicators at once, then that’s likely the problem and you’ll probably need a technician to replace it (assuming they diagnose it as the problem) unless you feel it’s something you can handle. It’ll probably be expensive unless it’s covered under warranty. Have you checked if it’s still covered?</p>
<p>mom2collegekids, FixYa is where my H would look first. He was able to repair our fridge twice for less than $100 each time using the help tips posted there.</p>
<p>No power: (i) there is no power to the outlet (not very likely); (ii) some sort of a fuse is out (more likely):</p>
<p>However, given the fact that your dishwasher had blinking lights all over the panel, it is possible that your problem is deeper than just a fuse. Enter your exact model # and see what Q and solutions pop up.</p>
<p>Check your credit card warranty policy. Many cards DOUBLE the original warranty, so if it normally had 2 years, you would now have 4 and it would be covered!</p>
<p>My Kitchenaid dishwasher KUDM03FTSS will not run. No display lights. Power to plug OK. In 3/08 similar problem, repairman replaced a thermal fuse which fixed the problem. I assumed it was the same problem but the fuse was OK. What else could it be?</p>
<p>Expert Answer</p>
<h2>if the fuse is good, then you either have a bad control board, or the junction box at the bottom of your dishwasher has shorted out. Remove the bottom kickpanel below the door and locate the silver 3" x 3" box near the front. Remove the front cover and check the wires inside. Make sure none of them are burnt or shorted. If so, then repair the wires, otherwise if the unit is geting power and your fuse is good, then your control board will need to be replaced.</h2>
<p>If you lived in North Carolina I would suggest you turn the light switch on. Yes, code in NC dictates that a dishwasher’s power source be controlled by a switch. Many newcomers call an electrician when their new dishwasher doesn’t work, and he flips the switch and bills them $80.</p>
<p>^^ For the layperson, before opening the power junction box under the DW and messing with the wires - remove the power source from the DW by either unplugging it or turning off the breaker or removing the fuse first. Unless you feel quite comfortable doing this, then don’t - have a qualified person do it. </p>
<p>Good point from jshain on the possible CC extension of the warranty period.</p>
<p>The fuse box is fine…I had turned it off for an hour and then back on to see if that would help (the D/W is on its own fuse). I know that they aren’t really “fuses” anymore…I just call them that.</p>
<p>I now wish I had bought this on my Amex because that does double warranties. :(</p>
<p>I’m now going to check out this… </p>
<p>*Expert Answer</p>
<p>if the fuse is good, then you either have a bad control board, or the junction box at the bottom of your dishwasher has shorted out. Remove the bottom kickpanel below the door and locate the silver 3" x 3" box near the front. Remove the front cover and check the wires inside. Make sure none of them are burnt or shorted. If so, then repair the wires, otherwise if the unit is geting power and your fuse is good, then your control board will need to be replaced.
*</p>
<p>*If you lived in North Carolina I would suggest you turn the light switch on. *</p>
<p>No, not in NC, but I did once experience that situation in Texas…very odd! You had to turn on a switch…like the one near a sink that is usually for the garbage disposal!! Weird!!</p>
<p>“The fuse box is fine…I had turned it off for an hour and then back on to see if that would help (the D/W is on its own fuse). I know that they aren’t really “fuses” anymore…I just call them that.”</p>
<p>What you describe isn’t the “fuse” they’re referring to. The fuse you’re looking for is plugged into the back of the Electronic Circuit Board behind the Display. It’s item #3 on this diagram:</p>
<p>also try seeing if there was a re-call on this and it is covered - I was having an expensive problem and the repairman said, oh, yeah…re-call…on an 6 year old machine.</p>
<p>Go to this link below on “How To Troubleshoot A Kitchen Aid Dishwasher”. The trouble may be in a FAULTY DOOR LATCH which you can check using these step by step directions:</p>
<p>Well…unless someone can advise me otherwise, this thread is convincing me that Kitchenaid is NOT the dishwasher I will be buying this winter when I replace my 16 year old Maytag (and NO I’m not getting another Maytag).</p>
<p>Just mentioning this: about a year ago, my sister’s two-year-old Kitchenaid shorted and set itself on fire in the middle of the night; she walked into the kitchen just in time to put it out but it was a mess, needless to say. Please make sure the problem isn’t caused by a short–that’s what the GFI is supposed to do, so if it’s tripped, there may be a reason.</p>
<p>Don’t get a Whirlpool, either. The control board to ours had to be replaced last month and now it won’t turn on at all. DH checked the outlet and it’s live. Fortunately, we have a home warranty that covers the repair for a $55 deductible but it will have to wait til Tues. It was really inconvenient this weekend with a house full of guests.</p>