<p>My clothes dryer died the day before Christmas. It was a few days til I could get the repair guy here and then another couple days til they called me with the price to replace the dead motor. It is a 9 1/2 year old kitchen aide brand and has had pretty heavy use. Total repair cost (including service call) will be $230.00. While I hate the idea of just junking it, I am thinking I may as well just go shopping for a new one rather than putting this chunk of money into repairs, as there are certainly other parts that may well break. Of course, I really would rather not spend the replacement cost, especially at this time of year! Anyone with recent dryer shopping experience or thoughts on repair vs. replacement?</p>
<p>Do the washer and dryer sit somewhere where it would bother you if they didn’t match? That more then doubles the ante if you would want a new washer, too.</p>
<p>One site I looked said that if the cost to repair the appliance is 50% or more of replacing it, then you should consider replacing the appliance. They said that the average dryer lasts about 13 years. I googled “what age to replace an appliance” to find a few sites with information. Remember, the rest of the dryer is 9 1/2 years old, too.</p>
<p>I replaced a much older dryer a couple of years ago, but wow the improvement in dryers was amazing! Consider ease of use, new features, and improved efficiency when making your decision.</p>
<p>We’re in the midst of the exact same thing but it’s our washer instead. Repair guy said it would cost as much to repair it as to replace it. And since it’s 12 years old and we’ve gotten a lot of mileage out of it all these years, we have decided to go ahead and splurge on a whole new set. Pretty much all I have done for the past few days is research and shop appliances. Our new ones will be delivered on Friday - yippee!</p>
<p>We spent about that much to repair our 25-yr-old Kenmore dryer. The repairman said if he had known how old it was before he got there, he would have said we should replace it. This is the only problem the dryer (electric) has ever had. </p>
<p>We’ve had 2 service calls in 25 years on the washer and this year replaced a $50 water valve ourselves as well as the hoses. With S2 in a very expensive college, we decided that we would try and nurse it along as long as we could. Even the $300-350 dollars we spent would be worth it if we could get another year out of it. </p>
<p>Our laundry room is on the second floor. I had thought eventually of replacing my top loader (which I prefer) with a front loader which is more energy efficient. However, the repairman said that the front loaders vibrate much more than the top loaders, and if they’re not on a reinforced or concrete floor, the vibrations can be really significant. Has anyone else heard this? I’m concerned because our second floor vibrates when the dog walks across.</p>
<p>Check out the laundry forum on That Home Site on Garden Web. There is a wealth of information there. Some people are a lot more hard core about laundry than I thought possible. Anyway, it is a good site for information.</p>
<p>I recently had to replace a 20 year old Whirlpool dryer. The Sears repair guy explained that I’d have to replace a motor which put the repair at well over $200. But they offered a deal where the $75 charge to come to my home could be applied toward the purchase of a new dryer.</p>
<p>I did lots of research as I will also have to replace it’s companion washer any day now. I have a 2nd floor laundry room. So, I needed to choose a dryer and washer (at least mentally) at the same time.</p>
<p>I was steered away from certain brands due to the vibration issue on 2nd floors. The one I most remember was LG. I ended up with a Whirlpool Duet Sport dryer which I love. As mentioned above, the difference in technology and efficiency is amazing. I didn’t know what I was missing. I will be buying a Duet Sport washer soon–and will get the one that has the “extra stabilization” features for 2nd floor.</p>
<p>Another nice feature of the Duet Sport is that they are stackable. Possibly a good thing depending on the type of house we buy next for retirement.</p>
<p>I’m of the school where it’s not dead till I say it is. But I also have a mechanical and repair ability beyond the average homeowner.</p>
<p>For an electric dryer, there’s not much that can go wrong, as the operable systems are effectively the motor, the heating element, and the timer. The subsystems are effectively electric, electro/mechanical, or straight mechanical. A good repair manual, either from the manufacturer or an aftermarket publisher will give you all the detail you need as well as diagnostic procedures. Most parts are available at reasonable price from a number of online or local sources. There are a number of online forums that will give you EXPERT advice from current, retired trade professionals. </p>
<p>Part of it is the joy (or distaste) of tearing something apart and getting it to run again. Some love it, some don’t.</p>
<p>One thing I found is that the overall quality of the older appliances is far higher than what’s out there currently. Bearings, sheet metal, motor windings in the “old stuff” tend to be far more durable and of higher guage and quality.</p>
<p>If you, hubby, progeny, a relative do not have the skill levels or ability, it’s not for you. The 50% benchmark is a good one, but can also be a function of the repair tech. Many operate on a trial by error diagnostic, replacing suspected parts in lieu of a full diagnostic procedure. The independent repairman is more apt to give you a more thorough assessment, as even the best techs are at the mercy of corporate or chain policy when it comes to service calls.</p>
<p>One thing I advise against on any new appliance purchase is to stay away from the bells and whistles. The trend away from electromechanical controls to touch pads and chip technology makes diagnosis a bit more difficult, requires new skills and equipment. A lot of these parts are expensive, even at the aftermarket/non OEM sources. </p>
<p>The more bells and whistles, the more stuff to fail. In a lot of cases, simple is best.</p>
<p>violadad,</p>
<p>We’re with you. With all the info online these days, and the availability of parts over the internet, we do almost all of our own repairs. If we can’t fix it, it’s usually time to get a new one. And then install it ourselves (although learning to sweat pipes when we installed our water softener was QUITE the experience…). We kept our old dryer alive for years, as well as our washer. We LOVE fixitnow.com.</p>
<p>Latest repair was diagnosing, ordering, and installing the air diffuser on our refrigerator. Total cost: $67. We just ordered the LCD screen for the cellphone DS broke (phone works fine, LCD clearly BROKEN) for $18 off of ebay.</p>
<p>Full disclosure: DH has a BSEE degree, and I am a former, VERY STUBBORN engineer…
I tend to look at these things as personal challenges.</p>
<p>My dad is an electrical engineer. One day many years ago, he fixed my mother’s gas dryer. I have no idea what he did. A few weeks later, she put clothes into the dryer and left the house. Upon her return, the entire house was filled with smoke. The dryer had stopped tumbling, but the heat stayed on and there was a completely self contained fire within the dryer. The clothes were ashes.</p>
<p>The fire department (who was called) told us our house shouldn’t still be there. My mom had newspapers nearby and a can of paint next to the dryer.</p>
<p>That was the last time my father was allowed to fix anything. It was also the last time I let her do my laundry. I will never leave my house with either the washer or the dryer running. Did I tell you the story about how my mom left the washer on, went out and didn’t notice that a sock had fallen over the drain in the laundry tub…</p>
<p>Getting a new appliance here is a more frequent occurance than a vacation. Last one was a new top loader (whirlpool, energy star, no bells or whistles).</p>
<p>A brief history over the 25 years we’ve been in this house:</p>
<p>Oven: RCA /Whirlpool, in wall, stainless, circa 1960. Completely rewired, new thermostat, 2 lower coils and one upper coil.</p>
<p>Cooktop: Roper, 4 burner electric, stainless, circa 1960’s. New burner controls, completely rewired. Each element replaced once.</p>
<p>Dishwasher: Kitchen Aid stainless, circa 1960. Bad motor, but tub was about the to rust through, although I had a new motor “in stock”. Replaced unit with a take off from a remodel with Kitchen Aide circa mid 1960. Swapped stainless steel panel from old one to match. Stripped all useable solenoids and controls from old one and put “in-stock”. Replaced a couple of discharge solenoid valves and one inlet valve.</p>
<p>Washers (we have two, one in cellar for garden/dog stuff/d’s kennel clothes) and one for the rest on first floor):
Maytag circa 1960’s came with house. Used it two years, moved to cellar as second machine. Ran weekly till two years ago when tub rusted out. Replaced with discarded Kenmore circa 1970’s from aunt. Used weekly. Never even replaced the belt.</p>
<p>Kenmore, top load circa early 1980’s- bought with dryer when I put a laundry closet area in kitchen. Ran 17 years, tub rust out. One new belt, one water pump, and one timer.</p>
<p>Whirlpool front loader, new to replace dead Kenmore. Garbage machine for top dollar. Motor replaced under warrantly just shy of year 5, died a few months back tub bearing failure. I did do the research on replacing bearing myself, but given machine model repair history was not worth it. Replaced with Whirlpool Enery Star top-loader, mechanical not circuit board controls.</p>
<p>Dryer:
Kenmore, circa early 80’s. Two heating elements, one belt and idler pully, a couple of hi/lo thermostats and a timer. When element went a third time, figured we were due as motor bearing was noisy. Replaced it with a Whirlpool 2 years back even though I had a motor “in-stock.”</p>
<p>Fridge: New Kenmore when we bought house. I think I put one defrost timer in it. Replaced 3 years back, with Kenmore Energy Star model.</p>
<p>Microwave: Little Litton, 1984. Replaced in November, put one touchpad in it. Just wasn’t heating well. Replaced with a new GE for less than the Litton touch pad part. I don’t expect five years from the new one.</p>
<p>Lawnmower: Circa 1960’s Locke reel mower. Third one. Commercial duty machines, used extensively before the landscapers switched to deck models. I buy them used, for about $100, clean the carbs and run them till they die. Parts are an issue. On average, I get about 10 years per machine. </p>
<p>Snowblowers:
Old Hahn-Eclipse Snow Giant, circa late 60’s. Bought used the first year we had the house, got 20 years out of it. A couple of driver belts, a spring and rebuilt the carb, and replaced a broken valve spring and the valves. Could no longer get mechanical blower parts, transmission drivewheel was too worn to adjust further, part NLA. t </p>
<p>Replaced with brother’s circa 1960 REO/Wheelhorse. Have replacement carb on order, as rebuild did not correct problem.</p>
<p>Snowbird circa late 1960’s, picked up over the weekend off Craigslist for $80. Rebuilt the carb, and put on new belts. Runs like a charm and expect at least 10 years out of it.</p>
<p>Wife thinks I’m a VERY sick man, but I doubt there’s more than $500 in parts in all of the above over 25 years.</p>
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<p>I would never suggest the repair of a gas or oil fired appliance unless one has a background in the field. Connections, fittings, firing settings are well beyond the scope of even the most skilled homeowner.</p>
<p>Yes, you can cause safety issues with electrical appliances. There are idiots who cross wire, leave live wire ends uncapped or crimp insulation in reassembly, but the risk is far greater in doing something unsafe when working with a gas or oil fired appliance.</p>
<p>If you do not have the appropriate skill level, DO NOT attempt it. </p>
<p>And please, DON’T leave the house or go to bed with the dryer on. Dryers are a major cause of residential house fires.</p>
<p>And do not save a few minutes of time or a couple of bucks by ignoring your washer supply and drain hoses. If you have a wall shut-off valve, USE IT. Inspect and replace these hoses at least every five years, more frequently if there’s no drained pan or if the unit is in a finished area. It’s one thing if the machine is in an unfinished basement where water damage can be minimal, but devastating in a first or second floor where hundreds if not thousands of gallons will be released from a ruptured hose.</p>
<p>These are under pressure if your wall valve is not “off”.</p>
<p>My in-laws tend to retire appliances after they burst into flames and they are prohibited by law from trying to get “one more year” out of said appliance. I do not recommend this method.</p>
<p>Generally speaking, if the repair will be over 50% of the replace price, we replace. So far, so good.</p>
<p>A lot of it is taking care/cleaning appliances but I agree with violadad that older appliances tend to be more reliable. We have a 25 year-old refrigerator also that still runs fine. All the shelves have broken and I finally unplugged it, but have not tried to replace them because it’s in the basement. We had to retire it from the kitchen when we moved to our house because it’s cream and our kitchen is black/white. </p>
<p>I have an 25-year old microwave (Montgomery Ward store brand) that has outlived 2 newer ones. I get tired of the clunky old thing which will not fit in the microwave “space” over the oven in our kitchen and replace it with a newer one. The newer one lasts 2 or 3 years and dies, and I bring the old one back out. I finally resolved to just use this one as long as I can. </p>
<p>I have a Jenn-Air gas cooktop (I hate gas). The starter on the most-used burner no longer works. Anyone know how hard that is to replace and where (ie. is it under the knob?)? I really don’t want to mess with gas and the dryer story above doesn’t reassure me.</p>
<p>didn’t notice that a sock had fallen over the drain in the laundry tub…</p>
<p>Done that. :o Luckily the tub holds a full load of water…almost.
Plus we do have cement floor so not a huge issue.
We have replaced the fan belt & thermostat in a dryer- but for a whole motor to go out, in a less than 10 year old applicance sounds bad.</p>
<p>We used my inlaws old appliances for years- so they were probably twenty years old altogether when replaced with mid range models about 6 years ago. The dryer is fine- although it needs a new fan belt again, but I want to replace the washer with a low water front loader- there is no reason for them to match- nothing else does & I figure if the clothes are drier when they are put in the dryer it will last longer.
[Appliance</a> Parts From PartSelect | Repair Parts For Major Appliances](<a href=“http://www.partselect.com/default.aspx]Appliance”>Official Appliance Parts - Replacement Parts - PartSelect)
you could try here for parts help.</p>
<p>after the laundry tub incident, my dad put something in the laundry tub that would start to sound an alarm if it got wet (but that only works if you are home to hear it).</p>
<p>He also put an alarm in the non frost free freezer that was in that same room. Seems my mom had a habit of not shutting the door completely so he had an alarm that would sound whenever the door was open, and only shut off when the door was closed.</p>
<p>Just so you don’t think all he did was make alarms for my mom’s mistakes…
He ALSO had an buzzer thingy made for when their outdoor cat would sit on a particular spot on the porch, so we knew he wanted to come in.</p>
<p>Oh, word to the wise, if you go on vacation for week make sure you shut your water main off if your hot water heater doesn’t drain to the outside of the house.</p>
<p>Thanks all for your comments/stories! Ended up buying a new Whirlpool today(dryer only, decided I really don’t care if they don’t match-both white is close enough). Not too many bells and whistles- hopefully, with youngest D in college the worst of my laundry career is over!
We thought when we bought the last set that we would be saving money by converting from electric to gas dryer. So it was annoying to find out (I probably knew this then but had forgotten) that gas dryers cost $75-100 more.
ViolaDad-can I hire you to make a housecall?!</p>
<p>tango, one way around the lost/broken old refridge shelves is to pick up a couple of the better grade wire closet shelving units from a good lumber yard (the box store versions are often a lighter, cheaper grade and may have too much flex). They are available in various widths, and can be easily cut to length. It’s not pretty or adjustable, but for a second fridge used for extra storage, it will serve. </p>
<p>Remove the old shelving clips and brackets, and use the “U” shaped anchor clips that attach with screws. These are actually half circles, and will grasp the heavier perimeter wires of the cut to length shelving. Depending on the width of the fridge, I’d use a minimum of three clips at the back, and at least two on each side. Predrill the holes, and use stainless steel sheet metal screws. I’m assuming
the the fridge is old enough to have an enameled sheet metal interior and not a plastic one. Screws set in plastic will not support the weight of a loaded or semi-loaded shelf.</p>
<p>musmom2, out of area service visits have a travel reimbursement fee.</p>
<p>
[quote]
The more bells and whistles, the more stuff to fail. In a lot of cases, simple is best.[\quote]</p>
<p>I have always thought this true. </p>
<p>I prefer fewer bells and whistles in my purchases- cheaper, less to fail, and all I seem to use anyway. They seem appealing at purchase time, but I never use 90% of those extra features anyway. Maybe it’s just me.</p>