<p>Terrible lag and spotty internet access… Can’t log into Facebook or my regular email account… haha-- work portal is impossible (hurray). I’m on vacation anyway, so they’ll have to manage without me.</p>
<p>Today we are in Yangshuo after spending the day cruising on the Li river and seeing the beautiful mountains and Karst formations. Karst is a kind of limestone. This area of China used to be under the sea a long time ago and then there was a large earthquake and upheaval of the earth’s crust… the softer earth has weathered away, leaving the Karst. There is a famous picture of this area of China on the Chinese Yuan note. It’s a very famous scenic area with lots of famous paintings; leastwise in China. D1 bought two Chinese books on art and has been busy searching out the Chinese characters for “Guilin” where we were staying before. Right now she is standing at the window painting again… there is a very steep hill with a pagoda clinging to the side and the New Year’s Fair at the foot. The food actually hasn’t been too bad – considering that we have to deal with D1’s celiac issue. The tour guide is 27 years old, speaks very good English and she is like a mother hen when it comes to D1, fussing over her and actually going and supervising the chefs (chiefs, she calls them) to make sure that D1 gets ‘safe’ food. So for instance when we went to Longshen terrace fields we went to a restaurant and they gave us green peppers with beef, rice, mushroom soup, and bamboo shoots with pork, rice, and oranges for dessert. Yesterday we were at Guilin again and the tour guide got D1 (and me) corn soup, egg fried rice (again), mushrooms with chicken, snow peas, beef with vegetables, and again oranges. Today on the cruise there was a buffet and the tour guide was sorry to report that everything had ‘wheat powder’ in it, but she wrangled rice noodles with vegetables and chicken, egg soup, rice, and oranges from the chef on the boat. </p>
<p>So I have to say that I’m so glad that we came to the countryside in China. It is so beautiful. The Longshen terraces were amazing… it was like being in Shangri La. We had to walk for an hour from where we parked the car, climbing thousands of steps high into the mountains – it was so interesting. Pigs being slaughter and carried on a pole (move over move over!); icicles hanging from the roof tops (yes it was COLD); friendly people, and hardly any tourists in sight, since this is so close to the big holiday, most of the souvenier stands were closed and most of the tourists stayed home, so it was really very nice. I think those steps would not be so fun with hundreds of tourists climbing on them under the hot sun. The restaurant we ate at in the Zhong village there had no heat. Most all the heating here is done with a brazier on the ground and the people crouch around it. No fun for my bad knees. The restaurant was so cold our breath hung in the air. The longer we had to sit and wait for the food, the colder we felt, lol. </p>
<p>From the Longshen terraces we went to Sanjian to spend the night. D1 was to scared to go and sample the local cuisine and the tour guide decided that there probably wasn’t anywhere that could deal with an English speaking customer, so she invited me to come with her to get rice noodles across the street. This was one of those cases where it’s probably better if you don’t know what it is. it was a small shop with the front open to the street. There was a huge vat of broth with oil skim and scummy stuff on the top of it. The cook took a basket and put the noodles into it and then dipped it into this vat of broth. Then she ladled the noodles and the broth into a big bowl and added various bits and pieces of … lets just say condiments. The tour guide asked me if I wanted egg, and before I could say yes or no, she decided for me and we got egg. It was a dark brown hard boiled egg that she said they cook in tea. So then we sat down (regular sized table and chairs, thank goodness) and I tried not to think too hard about whatever the ‘condiments’ were in my noodles. I know for sure that there was some sort of organ meat that the tour guide labeled ‘beef’… but really I just prayed I wouldn’t get sick. The broth and the noodles were very very good, the egg was too tough for my taste and the ‘condiments’… well I don’t like the same textures that Asian people like. But I was able to avoid most questionable items.</p>
<p>The hotel room…in Sanjiang… we should have had a clue from the receptionist and the bell captain in the lobby all bundled up. No heat in the room. Let me tell you it was freezing cold too. This is supposed to be subtropical/tropical climate, but you sure couldn’t tell the difference between there and New York last year when my furnace went out. We had extra blankets and wore extra clothes to bed (and I ended up with a terribly itchy rash across my chest, don’t know from what) but it felt like the longest night of my life. The bed was a mattress, (none too thick) on a board (I’m too old for camping) --but really the cold was hard to bear. Today I made sure that the bell captain turned ON the heat and I could feel it blasting before I let him leave, lol. It is still cold here. Poor banana trees are all brown from the frost. </p>
<p>We had another amazing day today, after the cruise we went by a golf cart sized electric car into the countryside to a farmer’s house. I made soy milk from soy beans and peeled water chestnuts. We sat in the living room under Mao’s watchful gaze from a huge poster. I assume the other one was probably the current leader (though it didn’t look like the recent photos I saw of Pres. Hu). Anyway, I hope that this trip has had some impact on D1 and she has some sense of how privileged she actually is and how other people in the world have to live. </p>
<p>I guess I’ve gone on long enough now. Tomorrow we have a free day here in Yangshuo, then we go back to Guilin on Wednesday and fly back to Hong Kong. Back home on Thursday, though I hear rumors that there’s a dreadful snowstorm brewing. I hope it is over with by the time we head for home.</p>