I have a superb handyman. He takes time to repair and the price is reasonable. Most of all, I can count on him to do the repairs right. I am quite picky and it’s a relief not to spell everything out. This wonderful handyman, however, likes gloss, it turned out. He was touching up the trims after the repair. He got the color match perfectly but the sheen is glossier than the rest. The house is in old style and it should be low sheen. Besides, I like low sheen. I fight my paint store experts every time I get paint. Have any of you tried to remove shine without overpainting? I am reading contractors’ blog. They suggest using fine steel wool and gently scratch or rub with vinegar or apply a matting coat. I’d prefer not to apply another coat of any kind if I can help it. I dislike the thick paint look in an old house.
It may depend on what type of paint was used. We have been told for a room that was high gloss, best results would be seen by sanding down and then re-painting. For a touch-up area you could try a spot in a hidden area?
Go to Home Depot and get a deglosser-it’s in the varnish section. Tell the paint guy the issue and he should be able ot point you in the right direction. It’d be good if you knew it was an oil based or a latex based paint that you’re dealing with.
It’s acrylic paint. I believe it’s water based. Do they still make oil based paints?
@Iglooo yes they do. I used an oil-based stain on my back deck. Much harder to work with, not as nice to the environment, but looks gorgeous and wears like iron (so maybe not so bad for the environment because it doesn’t need to be done as often). Some of the paint on the cabinetry in my kitchen is oil based, as well. Latex has its place, but a lot of the nicest trim I’ve seen is with oil based paints.
Here’s a deglosser:
Oil-based paints are the way to go when painting previously stained outdoor wood. Make sure the de-glosser you use is not going to leave the surface sticky.
^^That’s a good point-usually if I’m using a deglosser it’s for prepping for another coat of paint.
Benjamin Moore doesn’t have oil based paints anymore. The original paint we were trying to match was oild based. How do you not make the deglosser sticky? I think steel wool sounds like a safer bet. Trying it out at a dark corner as @jcmom716 suggested.
When we moved into our house 26 years ago every room (except the dining room which had 3 layers of wallpaper on it!) was painted in high gloss. We (or rather H) had to sand down every inch of every wall.
The finest steel wool you can find is a good idea. Or you can go to an auto parts store for some super-fine sandpaper in the 1000-4000 grit range depending on the level of sheen desired. A coarse auto paint rubbing compound could also work. Another alternative is pumice stone which you can find in various grades usually at a woodworking supply store.
There’s plenty of ways to get there, but it might take some experimenting to get exactly what you want.
@anomander Thank you for the wonderful selection of fine sanding material! I am leaning toward 0000 steel wool. It can get to moldings easier.
Igloo, Benjamin Moore’s Satin Impervo is oil-based. Maybe it’s not available everywhere, but we use it on trim and cabinetry.
Satin impervo low luster is the paint used. My workman told me it was water based acrylic. What I needed was pearl. Low luster would be too shiny. It may be that they don’t have oil based pearl sheen.
He is a great repairman I’d like not to lose but I think I have to fire him from future paint jobs. I had him come for more repairs and possibly painting following repairs. Any ideas how to tell him he is wanted for repairs only?
One tip about steel wool-wear thick rubber gloves or you’ll have tiny bits of steel wool embedded in your skin.
Also, dust mask and eye protection. The super fine steel wool can get in your lungs and eyes.
@Igloo,
If he is a fine workman, and his painting technique is satisfactory, could you allow him to do the work but YOU provide the paint of your choosing?
The last two professional painters I used asked that I purchase the paint (they provided quantities needed and recommended quality/finishes).
BM’s original Satin Impervo is a low-lustre alkyd-based paint requiring solvent clean-up. The newer Waterborne Satin Impervo is acrylic-based and cleans up with water. Maybe that’s what he used.
I once heard that the alkyd formula is not available in some states, so maybe there’s only one “Satin Impervo” (the Waterborne) in your market.
The alkyd formula dulls down over time. They say it takes a couple of weeks to achieve its final sheen. I don’t know if that’s true with the Waterborne product.
@mominva He is not a bad painter but I am realizing that my house is a tough one to paint. All the trims have a different color from the wall. Cutting in straight to look good is no simple matter since the wall is of old plaster and not even. Putting tape over to paint straight doesn’t help. You have to go with with your eye.
What about a solution of TSP? I would think this would be preferable, especially if there is a slight texture present.
How does TSP solution work?
Iglooo, It is a powder that you mix with water. It is used to prep glossy paint for re-painting. It might even be what is in a so-called “deglosser” product-- not really sure. I personally would not sand because it seems like too much work. When using a TSP solution, make sure the floor, window sills, etc. are thoroughly protected so drips or splatter don’t hurt surrounding areas.