<p>
</p>
<p>Heh, heh, heh… that’s a very complicated question. Pages and pages and pages have been written. But, the short answer, for well-mapped areas like the United States, is that they can be, and usually are, very accurate. Plenty accurate enough for walking, running, or biking on public roads and/or typical trails. And, even accurate enough for hiking on mountain terrain. Not accurate enough for landing an airplane in a fog bank.</p>
<hr>
<p>Detailed info (and wow, did it take some research to figure these settings out!):</p>
<p>There are actually two methods of calculating altitude (and therefore ascent/grade, etc.). One is a pure GPS based system. GPS is not super accurate for elevation --less accurate than for side to side positioning where you might see accuracy within 10 feet at times. However, the software programs that display the results – Garmin Connect, SportTracks, MapMyRun (I assume) – have “elevation correction” which are algorithms that apply a known elevation model of the topography to the GPS readings. This is pretty darn accurate especially for roads. Obviously they can’t model every little up and down on a hike in the mountains, but it’s still good enough in my experience.</p>
<p>Some Garmin models also have a barometric altimeter. You calibrate it by entering your known elevation or your known exact barometric pressure (I use the current reading Manchester airport). It then shows elevation based on changes in pressure as you climb or descend – as long as the weather doesn’t change. This is the method used by aircraft, but they are recalibrating the barometric pressure every 30 minutes or so.</p>
<p>To further complicated things, the Garmins that have the barometric altimeter have another mode. Calibrate the barometric altimeter, and the watch uses the atmospheric pressure data as you climb or descend, BUT it constantly adds a correction factor based on the GPS derived altitude from your current location. This gives the best of both worlds as the corrections take care of changing weather conditions. This is the method I use. The Garmin Montana, which I also use in the car, is self-correcting over 100 miles as I drive to the trailhead and is almost always is spot on when I take it out of the car. The watch, that has typically not gotten a GPS reading for a couple of days and a hundred miles, needs the initial calibration. I just calibrate it to the trailhead elevation on the topo map.</p>
<p>Just for kicks, I have a screen on the watch that shows the elevation from this whole complex algorithm AND the simple elevation from GPS alone. They never differ by more than ten or twenty feet. I think the simple GPS elevation in any Garmin GPS watch is more than sufficient for walking, running, or biking on streets or typical trails.</p>