Flip This House - The Reality

Parent Cafe
361

<p>I have a little update on the flipping show Flipping San Diego. Just chatted a bit with my stucco guy that was featured on the Two on One show. They called him out of the blue from his Craigslist ad. They called him because their stucco guy had a heart attack or something and they needed someone fast.</p>

<p>He gave them a bid and they were really happy, he’s very reasonable and one of the best in San Diego. Dang, word is out now and he’s barely squeezing me in on nights and weekends, he’ll be working here tomorrow on Sunday.</p>

<p>After he got the job they told him about the TV show and asked him to sign a release. Even though his name and company were featured twice on the screen he says he was paid in full and he was not asked for a concession in exchange for the TV visibility. But his phone is going off the hook and he’s turning down jobs. He works a lot for the flippers ( they have a parent company you don’t see on the show).</p>

<p>So, straight from the horse’s mouth that they pay for the labor they show, but they may get breaks on some of the materials that are featured.</p>

362

<p>BUDGET UPDATE</p>

<p>As promised, I am going to give a full disclosure update on our progress. I wish I could fudge the numbers and pretend that everything is going great, but I’m going to give the reality of the money pit.</p>

<p>Last full update was 8/26, post #235. I had an actual $500 over budget with an estimate. I’m going to go back to that number and start from there, the plumbing overage estimate was way off </p>

<p>ELECTRICAL: We are finally done with the rough electrical!!! Electrician spent a couple more days working on things since last update because I wanted to put in some good weatherproof outlets outside, a motion detector and special slope ceiling recessed lights in the kitchen area. I even put in a weatherproof outlet under the eaves so that the buyers could put up Xmas lights if they wanted. He also couldn’t finish the laundry room 220 outlet and regular outlet because the walls weren’t built yet. Lots of small details needed to get finished. I can report that the total electrical cost with labor and materials = $3,750. This is much more than I had estimated. But, with the recessed lighting I will save costs on decorative lighting (well, at least that is what I keep telling myself).</p>

<p>PLUMBING: We are still not done!!! But cost to date is $2,500. The guys have a deadline of Tuesday to get done with all of the gas, water and sewer lines because drywall is going up Wednesday whether they like it or not.</p>

<p>NEW OVERAGE FOR PLUMBING AND ELECTRICAL = ($2,500 + $3,750) - $3,000 budget = $3,250 OVER</p>

<p>PRIOR OVERAGE $500 + $3,250 = $3,750 total over budget at this point</p>

<p>WINDOWS – Half of our windows are installed now. We spent a lot of time framing in windows/doors that were being closed off to make 2nd bathroom and re-configuring the windows and doors in other areas of the house. We needed to get the framing and cut outs completed before the stucco could start. Not done with the windows in the front of the house yet so I will give an update on budget later.</p>

<p>STUCCO – Stucco guys have put a bottom screed around the whole house and patched up the bottom. They finished all the other patches with a scratch coat. Today the re-stucco coat will go on with color. Color selected is La Habra Premium Color – Charleston. I selected a smooth finish called Santa Barbara with a slight skip trowel. I personally prefer smooth stucco and don’t like what I call the ‘70s’ high texture type of stucco. STUCCO COST = $3,100 for everything. Budget was $2,500, so again, I am over budget.</p>

<p>One of the reasons we went over budget is the prior owner had some bozo come and spray ‘Tex Coat’ stuff all over the house. And when I say all over the house, I mean all over. The eaves, fascia, everything has this weird texture spray on it. We replaced all the fascia, but we only replaced some of the eaves and roof underlayment where needed. This means that the eaves and overhang now have 80% with weird peeling tex coat and other 20% is new wood. Tex Coat was some wonder product that snake oil salesmen promised ‘lasted a lifetime’. Well, they are now out of business because this crap does not last a lifetime and hundreds of people were probably calling them up to fix it. I now have to figure out a way to recreate bump texture on my eaves and overhang or pay a lot to scrape it all off. I’m going to have the painter roll on some matching texture where needed. But, it was peeling everywhere so we had to rent power washer and power wash everything to be able to apply new stucco.</p>

<p>PRIOR OVERAGE $3,750 + $600 = $4,350 over budget now.
INSULATION – We have completed the insulation of all the walls and ceilings to get ready for drywall installation. ACTUAL COST $1,200 and budget was $1,500.</p>

<p>PRIOR OVERAGE $4,350 - $300 = $4,050 over budget now.</p>

<p>I am working on loading some new pictures that show the stucco progress, new windows installed, laundry closet and walls ready for drywall.</p>

<p>Our goal next week is to start the giant drywall process on Wednesday morning. We still have to finish some plumbing and close up our floors so the drywall guys don’t kill themselves trying to maneuver on open floor joists. Had to call up four different drywall guys and get quotes all week because it is a big job and I want to sub it out so that our crew can concentrate on finishing doors and windows and fences.</p>

<p>P.S. I’m only highlighting specific areas that were budgeted. Obviously I have a lot of other general costs going on. In general I have spent $38,000 so far on this project and my overall goal is $75,000. Because I had a $7,500 contingency I might actually make the overall budget. We will see.</p>

363

<p>TANKLESS WATER HEATER UPDATE</p>

<p>Well, I gave in and hired a fancy plumber to do the tankless water heater because I have had problems in the past when we tried to do it ourselves. The guy insisted we needed a separate gas line coming from the gas meter for the heater because our current gas lines are supplying the heater/AC system and he feels the tankless (at the end of the line) won’t get enough pressure if they are running at the same time. Which obviously can happen!</p>

<p>Ugggh, we already ran the line. He started insisting that it had to be a separate 1" line but the install instructions clearly state 3/4" line and the 2nd output nipple on the gas meter is only 3/4" so he is just going to have to live with 3/4". Luckily our gas meter has an end cap on another opening so we can run the 2nd dedicated line. My lead is going to have to get under the house again and re-route the water heater line. Dang.</p>

<p>He is going to charge $480 labor plus materials (fittings, pressure relief valve and venting). Cost of water heater was $800. I will keep you all posted on the final total cost.</p>

<p>I have also hired him for the complex plumbing and drain that is going to be required to put a dishwasher out in the island away from the sink.</p>

364

<p>Some new photos have been loaded to our group</p>

365

<p>That is all the other “real” plumber do, 1" gas line, dedicated…and the 4’ away from all windows and doors. The hecks do not know this because of lack of knowledge and they screw it up so it won’t pass inspection. Tankless is a new thing and the old timers don’t know it. I have learned from mistakes.</p>

366

<p>Also, about the electric, especially the service entry and the new GFCI requirements(dedicated kitchen circuits). Those low cost self taught electricians are not experienced enough to do a duplex or above, they may be able to install a SFR service entry like coralbrook’s but when it comes multifamily, they don’t have enough experiences, so they screwed up. Our construction was delayed for a week because of the screw ups from the electricians. Cost overruns, that is the name of the game.</p>

<p>Incidentally, I ordered the GFCI breakers online and it costs much less than HD and two out of 5 breakers from HD broke down, none of the online orders were bad.</p>

367

<p>coralbrook, you may have already told us, but are you doing anything to the front porch once you get the stucco all taken care of? A picture is worth 1000 words. I felt bad for you when I read the tree story, but feel worse for you when I see the naked tree:(</p>

368

<p>artloverplus, are you up for posting a link to your house? Would love to see it – any before and after photos?</p>

<p>Coralbrook, really rooting for you staying at/under budget. Really enjoy this thread and appreciate you both sharing your experiences.</p>

369

<p>I could post photos, but since the house is listed for sale, I am not sure I can. I might be suspicious of soliciting and in violation of CC’s TOS.</p>

370

<p>Regarding the 1" gas line. The plumber and I went through the install instructions carefully for the size of tankless water heater that I have. It clearly states 3/4" or above. The thing that puzzles me is that the gas meter has a 3/4" outlet. If we put a nipple on it that sizes it up to 1" after exit from gas meter ( just for the line) and then the inlet valve is 3/4" on the water heater (which it is), I am not really understanding what good the 1" line really does. So it outputs at 3/4" and inputs at 3/4", why do I need the 1" line between the two valves? I need to talk to the guy again about it.</p>

<p>Definitely am doing GFCI everywhere correctly. He took the original house from 6 circuits circa 1925 to 15 circuits we are using in the new house. Two separate grounding rods, etc. My electrician is very good. But, I have never done a multiple family home so that could be a whole different story.</p>

<p>Artloverplus - yes the tip on buying receptacles and switches and other stuff online is really good. I use a wholesale Internet site to buy all the stuff and it gets delivered within 3 days, I really love it.</p>

<p>I still buy the 100s of feet of wire from Home Depot though because I haven’t really found it on the Internet and it is so heavy. Also, I discovered that some fixtures such as bathroom fans are still cheaper at Home Depot - by about $10 each.</p>

371

<p>Regarding front porch, this is a difficult situation. I did not pay for stucco across the front of the house because I am planning to put up wide wood siding. This house was originally a Craftsman style house that prior owner tried to turn into a 70s type ranch house. Most of the houses in the neighborhood have been renovated to their Craftsman glory. I’ll try to take some pictures of other houses in the neighborhood for our group photo album.</p>

<p>So, I want to put wide siding and I need to get rid of the deteriorating funky front door overhang thing. BUT, the little house is in a historical designated neighborhood, although this house is not specifically ‘designated’. What that means is there is a little neighborhood committee that is supposed to review all plans and ‘approve’ any exterior changes to make sure they comply with their rules (which of course they really cannot explain to me and they are not written down). So, if I make significant changes to the front someone might catch me changing without their review and approval. According to my neighbor, the review and approval takes 3 months - I do not have 3 months to sit around waiting.</p>

<p>I can build a uncovered deck without permit or approval. I am undecided what to do at this point. I’ll get the siding up and figure out how much more curb appeal I need after that change.</p>

372

<p>Funny story about the Naked Tree. After I posted the photo on our album and titled "Naked Tree’ some whacko must of done a search on Flickr for ‘naked’ and he posted a comment on the tree photo.</p>

373

<p>He must of been very disappointed when he found the ‘naked’ photo :)</p>

374

<p>“So, straight from the horse’s mouth that they pay for the labor they show, but they may get breaks on some of the materials that are featured.”</p>

<p>I always wondered about that since the cost always seems so much lower than what I’m accustomed to. Even if they are getting a break on materials it still seems so low to me.</p>

375

<p>regarding multifamily wiring, there is not that much difference for inside wiring from single family, the service entry is the problem. We put two identical boxes like cb has and it passed the town inspection, but when the uitl company came, they won’t hook it up and we have to re-do everything, that is PIA.</p>

<p>do you have to put sprinkler system now? I did not because I did not rip the plumbing apart.</p>

376

<p>cb</p>

<p>what do you think of the homedepot paint? I am using it, some times I need to go two coats, that is not good. I am buying it because I live there and it is convenient. But should I go Sherwin Williams or others? I had good results from them in other properties.</p>

377

<p>Home Depot has different levels of paint, which one are you using?</p>

<p>The Behr Premium Plus Primer+Paint works really well, but it is expensive.</p>

378

<p>Don’t have to put sprinkler system in single family residence. When I did some full room additions and rewiring with permits we just had to have wired smoke alarms in the new part. And we have crazy Title IV energy efficient lighting requirements. For example you have to have fluorescent fixtures at bathroom vanities and a new requirement for fluorescent dining room fixture.</p>

<p>Is there a woman in the world that wants fluorescent lights at their mirror??? Yuck. And they cannot even be a fluorescent bulb screwed in ( they are wise to that, changed out the minute they pass inspection). There aren’t even any decent looking fixtures for these requirements! Can you imagine what lovely dining chandeliers are available in fluorescent? Bldg inspector admitted everyone changes them out as soon as they leave.</p>

<p>The way around all this is to install a motion sensor switch, then you can have whatever fixture you want. I spend the extra money for the switches. But funny thing happened in a new bathroom, electrician must of set it at 60 seconds or something. If you were on the toilet the lights would go out and you had to swing your arms in the air to get them back on. It was hilarious. I had to pull switch apart myself ( electrician long gone and I wasn’t going to pay to get him back) and set it to a longer setting.</p>

379

<p>I use HD Behr paint because I get a lot of Pro Paint coupons. We always seem to require two coats because we are either new drywall or covering a mess. Like my colors richer.</p>

<p>Everyone that paints a lot should join Home Depot Pro Paint. After X gallons you automatically get 5% off, but more important is you get bombarded with email coupons. You just give them your phone nbr when you check out. This week they sent buy 3 five gallons, get one free. That’s 25% off!! I need close to 50 gallons of paint for this project. So, I rushed in this morning, because it expires today, and ordered eight 5 gal paints, which means I am only paying for 6. Even convinced them to deliver for free next week which is important because I threw my back out last year trying to lift and load 5 gal paint into the truck myself. Those things are heavy! Anyways, savings was $200 and I really don’t have to deal with it until next week when I really need it.</p>

380

<p>Was that primer+paint?</p>

<p>How about that new marqee? Paint? Have anyone tried? Last life time? I don’t buy it.</p>